Again with the Dutch tool chest... #3: Hinges, filling, runners

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Blog entry by Fraxinus posted 09-24-2016 06:43 AM 359 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Breadboard ends Part 3 of Again with the Dutch tool chest... series Part 4: Paint it black »

I spent an evening or two after work this week chopping the hinge mortises and fitting the hinges. The main thing I wanted to avoid was a big gap between the lid and the rim of the case. I also wanted to make sure the lid would stay open.

I managed to chop the mortises pretty much exactly how I wanted it, so the fit of the lid to the rim was nice and tight. At first the lid was almost exactly 90 degrees when opened so just a bump sent it falling, but after some fiddling I managed to get it to stay up more reliably. Not 100% happy with it, but it’ll do.

One thing I forgot to do was check the straps for square. When I first stood back to look at them I noticed the first hinge I attached was noticeably skewed. Not a lot, but enough. I had a hard time marking that one, the angled top makes it a bit awkward to balance. I later figured out I could lay the lid and case on the bench and mark it that way, which is much easier, but oh well.

The lid opened and closed just fine, but I can’t look at a cockeyed hinge for the rest of my life. So when I took them off to prepare for painting, I filled the old screw holes on that hinge so I could square it up. I used match sized slivers of wood and epoxy.

The offending hinge is on the left.

After work yesterday I filled in all the gaps, tear out, etc. I got some wicked tear out while making the rabbets for 3 of the 4 breadboards, which I filled in with sawdust and glue. I used wood filler in some other spots on the case. I’m glad this is going to get painted.

I also experimented with fixing a gap in the fall front, which had developed a bit of twist, making one of the corners curve out a bit. I was going to take the battens and lock piece off and plane the twist out, but I was quickly reminded that I had both screwed and glued the battens on. D’oh. So I got the outside of the offending corner wet then clamped it to the case. I had no idea if that would work, my theory was that the concave side was drier than the convex side. This morning when I unclamped it the gap was still there, but had been reduced by about half. So it kind of sort of worked. We’ll see if it lasts.

This morning I sanded/planed all the filler and some other areas in preparation for paint. Also made runners for the bottom. Sawed off about a 10-1/2” length of kiln dried Doug-fir 2×4, resawed it to about 7/8”, ripped it to about 1-1/8” wide, then trued it up and reduced the thickness to 3/4”. Then did what I’m calling a raised panel on it. Not sure what it’s really called, but it’s the same form and process as a raised panel. Basically to make them look less blocky.

I used 3 screws per runner to attach them to the bottom. Looking back on it I’m not sure that was the greatest idea (wood movement and all). Hopefully it won’t cause problems.

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