As I closed in the bouyancy tanks I wasn’t really happy with the fit of the lid. I’d allowed a little wiggle room in the width of the top to line everything up nicely (I’m learning not to just rely on measuring:-) so I’d expected some over lap. The funny part is when I got things nailed down the overlap wasn’t all on one side. One the starboard side I’d nailed the inboard bulkhead first for the whole length and then pushed and pulled to fit the top to the outside edge…a better way than, as I did on the port side, nailing both edges at the center and working out toward the ends. I didn’t take a before picture but I did take some after I’d run the router with a trim bit.
Not sure why this picture is rotated, I’ll have to figure out why and fix it.
I had been using hand tools as much as practical but I pulled out the Dremel, ROS and the router for this job. Although I still used the plane for some initial clean up. I can’t say enough good things about my LV bevel up block plane. The heft is just right it cuts like nobodies business and the blade has taken enormous abuse on this project and it stands up to the odd knot or layer of epoxy and stays sharp. Once it does get dull it sharpens easily and predictably. I like my block plane.
My initial plan had been to round off all the corners yet to be taped with my block plane (have I mentioned how much I like my block plane:-) . I started doing this and realized I needed to clean up some of the over flow of epoxy that I had’t quite got smooth enough while it was still wet. Mainly around the nails and some of those over-hanging areas. So I put a sanding drum on the dremel and made short work of any bumps.
This dremel is old, I think I was in my teens when I got it and it got a lot if hard service on many home renovation projects in the ensuing time. I may have to replace the brushes on it at some point :-) Since the dremel worked so well I thought ‘hey why don’t I use the router with a round over bit’ to make these edges really uniform. The first two edges went well as there was no over hang. Where the over hang occurred the round over bit was not deep enough for the guide bearing to work so I used a trim but to remove all the over hang and then switched back to the round over bit. So I’ve spent a surprisingly large portion of the morning fiddling with details nobody will notice but it is done properly.
I left the router plate from my table on as I think it gives more control then the stock base but one thing about the plate is it’s dead square sharp edges. They caught on any surface bump and either stopped the sliding along or caused a bump on the edge I was routing. Out came the ROS with a coarse grit and those little impediments were gone. I like the uniformity of the routed edge, not something I may have got with my hand plane.
Well no cherry pie for lunch today, I’ll have to rustle up something else :-(
-- "Checking for square? what madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2