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End grain cutting boards

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Blog entry by Farrout posted 03-29-2015 01:11 PM 1094 reads 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I’ve recently started making end grain cutting boards.
My first board was made of 3/4” cherry I salvaged from an old dinning table.
I found three leaves at a flea market and cut them into 3/4×3/4 squares and started the glue up.
The results were not bad. I learned a lot from that project.

Next I got some live oak that had been cut down on my property.
The trees had been cut down more than a year ago.
I made 1×1 x 24 boards from that and again did the glue up.

After I had formed the final glue up and started finishing the surface, the board started warping.
I’m using Titebond II for the glue.

The warp is bad enough that I don’t see any way to save the project.
The wood was pretty dry, I think.
Any ideas as to what I might have done wrong?

-- If we learn from our mistakes, I should be a genius!



7 comments so far

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

3599 posts in 1951 days


#1 posted 03-29-2015 01:33 PM

If the wood was outside while dying, I can assure you it wasn’t dry.

If the wood wasn’t allowed to acclimate before use in the shop for several weeks, it will warp.

Live oak is funny stuff anyway, it will move years after you cut it, although I like the looks of it every time I use it.

As for cutting squares, don’t.
cut the lumber 1×1x24 or whatever, glue those together, when you get a decent number glued together, chop hem at 1” intervals on the table saw.

Now glue those to all the other pieces.

You’ll find that the glue ups are much easier and the alignment is much easier.

Good luck with your endeavors!

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Farrout's profile

Farrout

185 posts in 2618 days


#2 posted 03-29-2015 02:02 PM

Thanks, that’s what I meant to say I did with the cutting.
I want to get a little experience before I go with good oak and maple.
Although, cutting tree parts into usable boards with my small shop tools is a learning experience in itself.

-- If we learn from our mistakes, I should be a genius!

View Paul's profile

Paul

443 posts in 3053 days


#3 posted 03-29-2015 02:38 PM

You say you started finishing the project then it started warping. You need to finish both sides at the same time, if you finish only one side then the side without finish will expand/contract more than the other side and warping will likely occur, this is specially true of end grain projects where moisture is sucked into the end grain faster. Just a thought….. maybe??

-- If you say 'It's good enough', it probably isn't.

View Farrout's profile

Farrout

185 posts in 2618 days


#4 posted 03-29-2015 03:26 PM

Thanks but no.When I said finishing I meant sanding.

-- If we learn from our mistakes, I should be a genius!

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

1041 posts in 2607 days


#5 posted 03-29-2015 03:42 PM

Here’s a thought that has nothing to do with your warping- Titebond II is a “water-resistant” glue. Titebond III is a “water-proof” glue. It may or may not make a difference after you’ve washed the board 100 times.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View Farrout's profile

Farrout

185 posts in 2618 days


#6 posted 04-04-2015 10:17 AM

OK, I’m officially confused, which seems to be a common state lately.
I put the board on the table saw and walked away from it for a few days, when I finally went back to it,
it was flat again. I don’t know if the glue is flexing or what, but I went ahead and finished it.
I used plain vegetable oil to coat it.
Here is a picture.

-- If we learn from our mistakes, I should be a genius!

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

1041 posts in 2607 days


#7 posted 04-04-2015 01:18 PM

vegetable oil will turn rancid. mineral oil and/or beeswax is preferred.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

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