Greetings all:

This project may only appeal to the fisherman on LJs, but the woodworking might appeal to everyone. I built this rod stand a while back, and have intended to put it on my projects, but seemed like others took predidence at the time…I started building these when I was in a bass club in Memphis, TN for a few of the guys in the club. Now in Arkansas, I have built a few more for the local fisherman around the area. I build them out of hardwoods, like Oak, Maple, Walnut, Cherry, etc…..just whatever they want. No Pine, or plywood. I make them to their specifications, to hold 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 rods…The average size I’ve made is 8…
Mine is a 14 rod holder, and is Maple. It is 48” high, and 45 1/2” wide. All the wood is 3/4”, and the two uprights are 3/4×5 1/2×48. Length of the top brace (where the tips rest in the 1/2 holes) is 3/4×4 5/8×44”. I took a 5 1/2” board and drilled a 1 3/4” hole with a Forstner bit, and cut the holes in half to get the tip rest.The top and bottom braces are 3/4×2 3/4×44”. The slanted butt rest is 5 5/8×44 1/4”. You will need to determine how much angle you need as to how long the rod handles are for the reels to clear…Easy.

Greetings you all,

A couple of months ago I built this entertainment center for a really nice couple. They bought a giant t.v. ( a 73” rear projection), and had it setting on a borrowed stand from where they bought it….They needed an e.c badly. This guy is really into surround sound (like me), and had all the bells and whistles for components. So… after taking final measurements and a rough sketch, I proceeded to start building it. It took me about 3 weeks to complete (with a bad back), but they seemed really happy with it…..so this is the scoop…..

I built this for a lady that I do some work for quite often. She wanted a hanging wall shelf to go in her sewing room where she could put her sewing materials such as quilting books, DVDs, sewing stuff, pictures, etc. close at hand, but out of the way of all of her machines, quilting frame, etc. All the wood is 3/4”. The two uprights are solid 3/4” oak, 6” deep, and 44 1/4” tall. The shelfs are 6” deep, and 31 1/4” long.
They are set in 3/8” x 3/4” dados, and spaced 8”, 8”, 5 1/4”, 5 1/4”, and 10 1/4” apart. I came down 1” from the top, cut and spaced all the dados for the shelfs, and the last dado was 1” from the bottom. What makes this wall shelf a little different is that the last shelf has a bow front design that she wanted me to put on it.
I have made a couple of bow front projects, so this was nothing new to do. All of the shelfs are oak veneer plywood, and the fronts are oak iron-on veneer. I finished it with 2 coats of Watco Danish Oil. Let each coat dry for about 72 hours, and applied 4 coats of a Watco Wipe-On poly, letting each coat dry the approiate time.
The husband will figure out how to hang it…..I just build it….I don’t install it…..Thanks for looking.. Almost forgot: After all the parts were made, I sanded them all before glue-up with 180 and 320 grit paper.
Glued it up with Titebond Extend, and clamped it for about 4 hours. Between coats of finish I buffed it with
0000 steel wool….

About 6 months ago, I sketched up and drew the plans for this saw cabinet. But other projects for a few customers kept me from building the cabinet. So when I finally got caught up on those, it was time to get started. I had 1 drawer under the saw for a long time, but quickly ran out of room in it. I wanted a cabinet that would have plenty of drawers for all my plunder to go in them. So this is what I came up with: The cabinet is 30” high, 31” wide, and 23” deep. With 2” locking casters it made it 32” high…perfect to fit under the saw. The carcuss is 3/4” Birch ply (American, not Chinese). I cut 3/4”x 3/8th” rabbits on the top and bottom of the sides, a 1/4”x 1/4” dado along the back of the sides for the back panel, set the top and bottom in the rabbits, glued and nailed them in place with 18 gauge nails…no screws at all. Clamped it up making sure eveything was square, and let it dry for about 4 hours. After it dried, I trimmed the outter edges around the box with 3/4”x 3/4” oak hardwood. Glued and pinned it again with 18 gaude nails, and filled the nail holes. Next came the slides. I used 22” K/V 8400 bb full extention slides, and spaced them out equally to be able to fit 4 drawers in. Once that was done, it was time to build some drawers. I wanted the drawers to be 6”, and after coming up 1/4” from the bottom and cutting a 1/4” dado for the bottom, the drawers would be 5 1/2” deep x 28 1/2” wide and 22” long. I cut all the drawer parts and bottoms and assembled them, always checking for square. The inside diminsion of the box was 29/1/2” minus 1” = 28 1/2” wide drawers. I use what I call the “1” rule in spacing between the drawers…works evey time.. Now it’s time to build the overlays for the drawers. With the plywood I had left over is what I used for the fronts. After careful measuring and spacing between each drawer, I used a 1/8” shim to space the drawer fronts. Then I pinned the drawers with 1” 18 gauge nails, and screwed down the overlays to the drawer fronts with 1” square-drive screws 1” long. When it was assembled, I filled the nail holes. I lightly sanded everything down with 220, put on 3 coats of a 50-50 mix of tung oil and mineral spirits, letting each coat dry about 6 hours each. Once dry, I moved it in place under the saw table extention.
It fit perfectly, with about 1” of clearence. Now I’ve got plenty of storage for everything I need at the saw. Thanks for looking, and feel free to make one for yourself…you’ll be glad you did….....

Here’s my version of the Shaker hall table. I built this for my wife to put her Christmas village disply on. She said it was just the right size, so I guess I made a couple of points with her !!! It is solid oak, 36” high, 15” deep, and 51” long. I tapered the legs on all four sides, and used mortise and tenon joinery. I used pocket hole joinery to build the drawer slides, or box, for the drawer to fit easily. Box joints are 1/4” x 1/2”. I mis-calculated the height of the drawer. That’s why the b.j.’s are a little off, and didn’t come out exactly even. I’ll try to do better next time !! lol. The top is attached to the frame with “figure 8’s”. No glue. I really like that idea, and have used them for years. I had some pixs showing the figure”8” setup, but the #’s must have got delieted from my file somehow. Oh well—you get the picture!!!! lol. Nothing unusual about the table. I do like the drawer, though. I put 2 coats of WatCo Danish Oil on, let dry for about 6 hrs., and then put 4 coats of WatCo Wiping Poly, buffy between coats with 0000 steel wool, then finishing up with Johnson’s Paste Wax.
All in all it turned out pretty nice, my wife was tickled with it, and now I get to buy a new tool and some more wood!!!!!!!!! Ain’t life grand? Thanks for looking. All comments welcome, thank you very much.