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01-07-2017 08:03 PM

Best practices for a large tabletop - 4 replies

I am a software engineer by profession and work from home. At present my workdesk consists of a GeekDesk frame which can be raised and lowered at will (which I do rarely). The top is just three pieces from an old Ikea kitchen table (veneered MDF). Crappy. Been meaning to make a new nice top for quite a while. Looks might I might finally get...

06-20-2016 06:03 PM

Looking for ideas on space usage in an existing cupboard - 2 replies

My wife owns a horse, which she keeps at a barn/stable near us. As part of her fees, she gets a small cupboard/closet, which consists of a space about 6 feet high, 2 feet wide and 2 feet deep. It has two shelves, one about a foot off the bottom and one about a foot down from the top. There is a saddle rack (like the blue one here in the middle...

04-18-2015 03:51 PM

Protecting cast iron surfaces during storage - 49 replies

Sadly, I am having to leave my beautiful shop in northern Illinois because we are moving to Seattle (into a temporary rental house). Eventually, I’ll get a new shop, but in the short term (6-12 months) I won’t have much of a shop so all the big machines (tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer, drill press, etc.) are going into storage. The st...

09-03-2014 07:26 PM

Sawstop brake fired on dado set - dado blades seem OK... - 5 replies

My son (a licensed contractor) was using my SawStop this morning, cutting some dados in some drawers he’s making for my shop. the drawers were assembled with glue and brads. Apparently the blades touched one of the brads and managed to ground through the brad to the saw frame/top and that fired the brake. The brake is totally hosed R...

04-20-2014 05:14 PM

Edlerly Stanley #5 - How flat is enoough? - 7 replies

Long ago I came into possession of an old (but not classic) Stanley #5. Says Stanley #5 but there are no patent numbers or anything. I think my father bought it for some purpose. No idea why – he was a wonderful man but had two left hands when it came to tools. Anyway, this plane has been kicking around in my toolbox for 30 years or mo...

09-02-2013 09:43 PM

Wide boards handling strategy - 14 replies

I am making a entry hall bench. The wood is poplar since my wife wants to paint it when it is done. I have a nice 8 foot piece 11” wide and 6/4 thick. Ultimately, I need a 4 foot by 20” piece for the bench’s top. My problem is that the 11” board isn’t finished though it’s pretty square. I have an 8”...

01-10-2013 06:25 PM

Entry hall bench joinery - 1 reply

My wife has asked me to build a bench for our laundry room that would have compartments beneath it to hold boots and shoes. I have come up with a schematic design that works It’s 42” wide, 20” high with 10” high compartments for boots and 6” high compartments for shoes. I’m thinking a solid top with f...

10-24-2012 04:59 PM

Drilling DEEP Dog Holes in Hard Maple - 7 replies

My Holtzappfel bunch is nearing the end (thank goodness). I am mounting the Twin Screw Veritas vise. Because of the thickness of my top (3 3/4”), the vise chop ended up very tall – almost 8 1/2”. It is made out of very hard maple. All has gone well until I tried to drill the dog holes. In the chop for the end-vise, I cut...

10-04-2012 05:22 PM

Assymetric chop of on the Veritas Twin-Screw vise - 4 replies

I am about to install my Veritas Twin-Screw vise. I’ve got a careful plan, have read the installation instructions twice (at least) so am hoping to start this weekend (assuming wife doesn’t have other plans). One open question is that Veritas says to mill the outer (moving) chop so that is asymmetric. In other words, plane it so...

10-04-2012 03:21 PM

Knife-edges on workbenches? - 3 replies

I am almost done with my Holtzappfel bench (hooray!). So am thinking about finishing touches. As I milled all the wood carefully, all the edges (except parts of the legs which I already chamfered)are “knife-edge”. The question is what to do with them. I built the bench out of Southern Yellow Pine which is relatively soft. A coup...

09-08-2012 06:56 PM

Blade burns in hard maple - 10 replies

I’m working on the chops for my face and end vices. I bought some very nice HARD white maple, 9” wide, 5/4. When I made the necessary cuts using a pretty new, clean WoodWorker II saw I get this kind of burning. I wasn’t feeding it fast and it cut very nicely, no bogging or problems, just these burn marks. Is this to b...

08-27-2012 03:12 PM

Chopping Mortises Mangles Chisel? - 22 replies

I am working on a big Holtzapffel style workbench made of Southern Yellow Pine. I finally at the point of chopping out the big mortises for the legs (2.5×5”). I drilled them out with a Forster bits, the chopped out the waste with a 1” chisel. The result was a reasonable mortise, but my chisel ended up mangled. It was very sh...

08-07-2012 12:09 AM

Woodshop floor options... with car - 5 replies

Unlike many of you, I don’t have a dedicated shop space. It’s a REALLY nice space – 19×20 feet, 11 foot ceilings, fully insulated and air conditioned (for summer). (see my LJ blog for more details) It has a concrete floor with very effective radiant heat. The downside of all this is that it IS a garage and as I live in ...

05-07-2012 05:14 PM

Efficient method for setting the depth for a roundover bit? - 7 replies

I may be missing something or perhaps there is no “easy” way. The problem is that when I am using a roundover bit I find I have to take a piece of scrap and somewhat tediously make a series of trial and error adjustments to get the bit set to the right depth. Perhaps there is no “easy” way and I will get better at homin...

04-16-2012 09:22 AM

Binding When Ripping Yellow Pine - 6 replies

I bought a bunch of yellow pine to build a Holtzapffel bench. I stickered it and left it for two months. About 2/3 of the wood I can rip, but about a third of it closes up so fast I can’t finish the rip. I wrote about it in my shop blog here if you want more details and pictures. But to be clear, the saw is a new SawStop 1.75 HP table...

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