|View DrPuk2U's:||home||workshop||projects (1)||blog (12)||reviews (0)||forum topics (10)||buddies (4)||favorites (0)||activity log|
|100 days ago||
Wide boards handling strategy - 14 replies
I am making a entry hall bench. The wood is poplar since my wife wants to paint it when it is done. I have a nice 8 foot piece 11” wide and 6/4 thick. Ultimately, I need a 4 foot by 20” piece for the bench’s top. My problem is that the 11” board isn’t finished though it’s pretty square. I have an 8”...
|335 days ago||
Entry hall bench joinery - 1 reply
My wife has asked me to build a bench for our laundry room that would have compartments beneath it to hold boots and shoes. I have come up with a schematic design that works It’s 42” wide, 20” high with 10” high compartments for boots and 6” high compartments for shoes. I’m thinking a solid top with f...
|414 days ago||
Drilling DEEP Dog Holes in Hard Maple - 7 replies
My Holtzappfel bunch is nearing the end (thank goodness). I am mounting the Twin Screw Veritas vise. Because of the thickness of my top (3 3/4”), the vise chop ended up very tall – almost 8 1/2”. It is made out of very hard maple. All has gone well until I tried to drill the dog holes. In the chop for the end-vise, I cut...
|433 days ago||
I am about to install my Veritas Twin-Screw vise. I’ve got a careful plan, have read the installation instructions twice (at least) so am hoping to start this weekend (assuming wife doesn’t have other plans). One open question is that Veritas says to mill the outer (moving) chop so that is asymmetric. In other words, plane it so...
|434 days ago||
Knife-edges on workbenches? - 3 replies
I am almost done with my Holtzappfel bench (hooray!). So am thinking about finishing touches. As I milled all the wood carefully, all the edges (except parts of the legs which I already chamfered)are “knife-edge”. The question is what to do with them. I built the bench out of Southern Yellow Pine which is relatively soft. A coup...
|459 days ago||
Blade burns in hard maple - 10 replies
I’m working on the chops for my face and end vices. I bought some very nice HARD white maple, 9” wide, 5/4. When I made the necessary cuts using a pretty new, clean WoodWorker II saw I get this kind of burning. I wasn’t feeding it fast and it cut very nicely, no bogging or problems, just these burn marks. Is this to b...
|472 days ago||
Chopping Mortises Mangles Chisel? - 22 replies
I am working on a big Holtzapffel style workbench made of Southern Yellow Pine. I finally at the point of chopping out the big mortises for the legs (2.5×5”). I drilled them out with a Forster bits, the chopped out the waste with a 1” chisel. The result was a reasonable mortise, but my chisel ended up mangled. It was very sh...
|492 days ago||
Woodshop floor options... with car - 5 replies
Unlike many of you, I don’t have a dedicated shop space. It’s a REALLY nice space – 19×20 feet, 11 foot ceilings, fully insulated and air conditioned (for summer). (see my LJ blog for more details) It has a concrete floor with very effective radiant heat. The downside of all this is that it IS a garage and as I live in ...
|583 days ago||
I may be missing something or perhaps there is no “easy” way. The problem is that when I am using a roundover bit I find I have to take a piece of scrap and somewhat tediously make a series of trial and error adjustments to get the bit set to the right depth. Perhaps there is no “easy” way and I will get better at homin...
|605 days ago||
Binding When Ripping Yellow Pine - 6 replies
I bought a bunch of yellow pine to build a Holtzapffel bench. I stickered it and left it for two months. About 2/3 of the wood I can rip, but about a third of it closes up so fast I can’t finish the rip. I wrote about it in my shop blog here if you want more details and pictures. But to be clear, the saw is a new SawStop 1.75 HP table...