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New State, New Shop #4: Rippin' and Grippin'

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Blog entry by DrPuk2U posted 855 days ago 1223 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: First Project - Rolling Outfeed Cart Part 4 of New State, New Shop series Part 5: The Wall Goes Up! »

Well, the wall hasn’t gone up yet – the start got postponed a day or so. And I had time to start ripping down the yellow pine 2×12s This proved interesting, so I thought I would post a short snippet about that. I ran into a frustrating problem so I will probably post this on the forum as well.

My plan is to build a big heavy Holtzapffel bench a la Chris Schwartz et al. Supposedly, yellow pine is a good candidate, strong, heavy and relatively cheap. I’ve never used it before as I am from the West Coast originally. It’s widely available here in the Midwest so I figured that would be a good choice.

I bought the yellow pine a little over two months ago from a local lumberyard. Southern Yellow Pine #1. Bought a total of 14 16-foot 2×12s. With the help of one of the lumberyard workers , I picked through the bunk (which we had to open, stripping off the plastic) and chose the boards one by one, trying to get good, straight boards as free of knots as possible.

The lumberyard delivered the wood the next day and I stacked it in my garage , stickered with one-foot lengths of 1×2 furring. The garage has radiant heat in the floor and I kept the garage at 60F. I checked all the wood when I first stacked it with my moisture meter. Values were typically 8-12%, with a few at 6-7% and a few higher – one or two of them at 20%.

I rechecked them this past week and they were all down below 10%, many of them at 5-6%. I figured they were probably ready to be ripped. My plan was to cut them into 6-8 foot lengths, depending on knots, then rip them down to 4 1/2” widths. So I started crosscutting the 16-foot lengths down with my circular saw and that was when the first signs of potential problems arose. Most of the cuts weren’t a big deal, but on some of them my circular saw started to bog down a tad. The saw is a fairly robust Milwaukee with a 24 tooth Freud rip blade so that seemed a little surprising, but I persevered.

But when I got to ripping them on the table saw I got some real surprises. My saw is a SawStop 1.75 HP cabinet saw which I equipped with a Freud LMT72 24 tooth rip blade. I bought the blade specifically because I was a little concerned about the difficulty I ran into simply cross-cutting the boards. I figured that ripping the long pine might be an issue with the 40-tooth blade that comes with the saw.

My worries were soon confirmed. Most of the boards I managed to rip, but I ran into a number of them – maybe as many as a third of them – where I simply couldn’t rip them. Instead, I got part way through the board – usually no more than afoot or so and the board would start closing up so fast and tight that it pinched the blade, smoke would start coming off the blade and the blade would stall. Then it was a real hassle to get the dang board off the saw.

After a couple of these, I got more sensitive and as soon as the blade started to bog I would stop. When I checked the problem boards I noted that they tended to be heavier than the others, but surprisingly, they weren’t measurably wetter. A couple of them were only 7% whereas some of the boards that I was able to rip were 8%.

And when I say they closed up, I ain’t kidding, as you can see.

The top board in the photo is near the heart of the tree, but that wasn’t the case with all of them by any means.

So I put the problem boards aside and continued on. I did finish ripping all the rest and now have a respectable pile of wood ready for the next step.

My biggest problem is that with bows, twists and knots, I am not sure I have enough for the whole bench and yet am not sanguine about being able to rip the rest. I don’t want to wait a year to finish the bench. Well, have to take a week off for my real job and wait for the work on the new wall to be done, so I’ll revisit it in a week or so.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"



3 comments so far

View oluf's profile

oluf

256 posts in 1663 days


#1 posted 855 days ago

Rip your problem boards just under half the thickness. Turn them end for end and cut the same amount from the other side. Now raise your blade just a little and part the thin remaining strip. You can drive a wedge in the top half of the cut if you don’t want the kerf to close on you. A cheep rip saw blade with some set to the teeth would also be a better choice. I use $11.00 Harbor freight blades for all my rough rip cutting. Beats those fancy high priced ones every time.

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

View DrPuk2U's profile

DrPuk2U

48 posts in 916 days


#2 posted 855 days ago

Nils, Thanks for the feedback. I like the sound of the cut from each side then all the way through. I’ll try that. I am using a rip blade, not the thin kerf that came with the saw. But given how much the wood was clamping down, I’m not sure that any amount of set would solve it. Your proposal sounds like it might work.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10708 posts in 1314 days


#3 posted 855 days ago

I just drive a wedge into the kerf as soon as it starts to close and continue ripping. I get along well with the 24 tooth Freud Diablo blades from HD. The thinner kerf seems to rip easier than a full kerf especially in a lower HP saw like you have.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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