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29K views 60 replies 25 participants last post by  PedroOso 
#1 ·
Carcase and Dividers

I've had the urge to just make something small for some time now…I've been working on a bed with what little shop time I have, and haven't had much time for other stuff. I wanted one of those projects that you could just take the materials at hand and go for it.

Also, something that wouldn't take forever to build and would give some (relatively) instant gratification.

I had some scrap cedar, fir, poplar, and walnut that'll be used in this little box/case. Milled the assorted woods to 5/8" for the main carcase and drawer fronts, 1/2" for dividers and drawer sides, and 1/4" for the drawer bottoms and back.

Here are the carcase sides made up. After cutting to length, I rabbeted the back edge 1/4"x1/4", plowed stopped dadoes for the drawer dividers, and mitered the ends.



This next photo is simply the dry fit to see how the miters came together. I'll tell you, they're not perfect, I don't have a jig to perfect miters on stock this wide. I suppose I could've built one, but didn't want to spend my time doing that at this point. I used the tip that Karson picked up from Franz Klausz - that is: to use the inside of the board as the outside (show) surface. I like the idea in this case especially because, if the boards were to cup, they'd want to push on the outside corners, rather than split the corners open. With the keys that'll come, I have no fear that this case will want to come apart down the line.



All the corners/sides were nice and square at glue up time:



A couple shots from the front, after cutting and fitting divider stock to the case:


- and in color too!:



Here's a shot from the back - the dividers are sticking out in the back because they are not assembled yet. Still need to run tongue and grooves for those, as well as put in a guide block for the upper divider in the center. It will have a central muntin.

 
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#2 ·
Looking good. You are taking the mitered box up a notch. Good tip on using the inside of the board. Hmmm….Busting out "wonder boy" I see (shoulder plane).

Why don't you run the miters on the table saw or did you? Time for a miter sled?
Are you going to put the tanzu stlye hardware on it?
 
#3 ·
Wonder boy was used to clean up the rabbets is all. I cut the miters on the miter saw, just cause it was quick and dirty. Table saw next time.

It won't have any hardware; finger pulls will be 3/4 (or so) of a circle cut outs…
 
#4 ·
Looking really nice so far Dorje. After the bed I made I had the same urge, the result being my last two projects. Have you considered mitering the front too, so the front is recessed, might look neat…

(Love the b+w shots, looks just like a feature from Woodworking magazine :)
 
#10 ·
Great project to give one the all important feeling of accomplishment. And, a well written blog as usual. I'm loving the black and white as others have mentioned. I think it helps the viewer focus on the subject at hand and not be distracted by all the brightly colored tools and what have you that ends up on the bench. Thanks for the post.
 
#14 ·
Nice project Dorje, as always. I will have to follow Gary's trail and google Tansu. I am completely in the dark about the style but this gives me a chance to learn something new today- and that is what this site is about.

I like the tip on turning the boards inside out. I am not sure I can quite visualize this yet but it makes me want to run out to the shop and cut some miters to find out. This is definitely "thinking outside the box".

Thanks for the post I'm anxious to see the finished product (but don't be shy about posting some more construction pictures if you have an opportunity).
 
#15 ·
I don't know what you would consider to be "perfect" miters but those look pretty darn tight to me. You are going to "key" these with sliding dovetail keys, or what? I'll be looking forward to seeing the finished result, but it sure looks like it's going to turn out very nice. I like the grain and figure you chose for the carcase sides.
 
#16 ·
How to explain.. I'm thinking you could chamfer, or even roundover ala Maloof, the inside edges of the case, and then recess the drawers. Currently at the corners you have a miter running in the x - y plane, the roundover /chamfer would be in the x - z plane (front to back). The dividers would then scooch back a little, and be flush with the newly chamfered/rounded over edges. Make any sense at all?

Something along the lines of this
 
#19 ·
Thanks all for your comments -

Damien - I get it - with the explanation even (can you hear Yogi the Bear?)...I like the idea, and I suppose it's not too late to do it. I left 1/2" solid wood on the stopped dadoes and could rip the back of the divider a bit narrower…hmmm…Let me think about it… I guess a chamfer bit on the router table would do the trick, followed by squaring the corners…seems do-able and not a ton of time for set-up…

SteveL - sliding dovetail keys are more than I want to do on this project - they were considered though! The keys will be simple 1/8" flat walnut stock.
 
#20 ·
I love tansu - I will be making a dresser or some such in that style someday. Next house methinks.

re: Flipping the boards inside out, you mean after resawing them? Great tip.
 
#21 ·
Scott - I just mean that I looked at the end grain growth rings, and based on that I used the inside of the tree as the show surface. The boards used for the main carcase were not resawn for this project. Just a little tip I remembered Karson talking about hearing from Frank Klausz. I'm thinking/guessing that Klausz' many years taught him that the inside of the tree showed just a hint more chatoyance or something along those lines. I don't recall hearing the purpose, only that it was stated. Maybe I better hunt down that post…

Here's the quote from Karson's blog entry:

Key points [made by Klausz]: Always make the outside, visible piece of wood the innermost surface of the piece of lumber. If it is flat sawn the outer surface of the board is closest to the bark. Make that surface the inside of what every you are making.
 
#23 ·
Thanks for that clarification. I re-read that several times and formed the wrong conclusion. Great tip - very Nakashima! Now I won't forget it.
 
#24 ·
Hi Dorje;

Nice project so far…

I think we all need to build something for kicks once in a while. Takes the client problem away.

I have one of those problems now that's especially nuts.

Lee
 
#25 ·
Mark - I think I will install some tansu style hardware…

Lee - this was supposed to be a quick "for kicks" project that, I'm afraid, is going to get drawn out longer than I anticipated…when will I learn?
 
#26 ·
Keyed Miters and Drawer Parts

I had a little bit of time this afternoon to work on the little case…

I keyed the miters with walnut:



Glued up the dividers:



and, cut out the all the drawer parts:



I've got drawer bottom stock prepared from the first day (in the background of the photo above), so my next step will be to cut the joinery for the drawers. And, since this is supposed to be a quick and dirty project, I'm going to rout the drawers with a drawer lock bit. Like this:

 
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