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Little Tansu Inspired Case #1: Carcase and Dividers

Blog entry by Dorje posted 635 days ago 1052 reads 4 times favorited 24 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Little Tansu Inspired Case series Part 2: Keyed Miters and Drawer Parts »

I’ve had the urge to just make something small for some time now…I’ve been working on a bed with what little shop time I have, and haven’t had much time for other stuff. I wanted one of those projects that you could just take the materials at hand and go for it.

Also, something that wouldn’t take forever to build and would give some (relatively) instant gratification.

I had some scrap cedar, fir, poplar, and walnut that’ll be used in this little box/case. Milled the assorted woods to 5/8” for the main carcase and drawer fronts, 1/2” for dividers and drawer sides, and 1/4” for the drawer bottoms and back.

Here are the carcase sides made up. After cutting to length, I rabbeted the back edge 1/4”x1/4”, plowed stopped dadoes for the drawer dividers, and mitered the ends.

This next photo is simply the dry fit to see how the miters came together. I’ll tell you, they’re not perfect, I don’t have a jig to perfect miters on stock this wide. I suppose I could’ve built one, but didn’t want to spend my time doing that at this point. I used the tip that Karson picked up from Franz Klausz – that is: to use the inside of the board as the outside (show) surface. I like the idea in this case especially because, if the boards were to cup, they’d want to push on the outside corners, rather than split the corners open. With the keys that’ll come, I have no fear that this case will want to come apart down the line.

All the corners/sides were nice and square at glue up time:

A couple shots from the front, after cutting and fitting divider stock to the case:

- and in color too!:

Here’s a shot from the back – the dividers are sticking out in the back because they are not assembled yet. Still need to run tongue and grooves for those, as well as put in a guide block for the upper divider in the center. It will have a central muntin.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA


24 comments so far

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1659 posts in 968 days


posted 635 days ago

Looking good. You are taking the mitered box up a notch. Good tip on using the inside of the board. Hmmm….Busting out “wonder boy” I see (shoulder plane).

Why don’t you run the miters on the table saw or did you? Time for a miter sled?
Are you going to put the tanzu stlye hardware on it?

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1768 posts in 875 days


posted 635 days ago

Wonder boy was used to clean up the rabbets is all. I cut the miters on the miter saw, just cause it was quick and dirty. Table saw next time.

It won’t have any hardware; finger pulls will be 3/4 (or so) of a circle cut outs…

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View Damian Penney's profile

Damian Penney

1022 posts in 869 days


posted 635 days ago

Looking really nice so far Dorje. After the bed I made I had the same urge, the result being my last two projects. Have you considered mitering the front too, so the front is recessed, might look neat…

(Love the b+w shots, looks just like a feature from Woodworking magazine :)

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1768 posts in 875 days


posted 635 days ago

Thanks Damien – Tell me more about what you mean about the recessed front. My minds eye is seeing a couple different things.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View Mike Lingenfelter's profile

Mike Lingenfelter

457 posts in 992 days


posted 635 days ago

Hey Dorje,

Nice looking cabinet. I need to build something “small” too. I haven’t completed something that wasn’t for the shop for a while now. Now I just have to find the time to get out there.

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

View ChicoWoodnut's profile

ChicoWoodnut

894 posts in 693 days


posted 635 days ago

That’s coming along great. I’ll be following this one. I really have fun with joinery and from the looks of it, so do you. Figuring it out is 50% of the fun the other half is executing it.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

14852 posts in 729 days


posted 635 days ago

Great job Dorje. Aren’t those black & white photos good !.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

2990 posts in 900 days


posted 635 days ago

Neat little project. I like the tip about flipping the boards inside out to help prevent the corners from opening.
So much to learn.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View Jeff's profile

Jeff

996 posts in 972 days


posted 635 days ago

Great project to give one the all important feeling of accomplishment. And, a well written blog as usual. I’m loving the black and white as others have mentioned. I think it helps the viewer focus on the subject at hand and not be distracted by all the brightly colored tools and what have you that ends up on the bench. Thanks for the post.

-- Jeff, St. Paul, MN

View Eric's profile

Eric

784 posts in 662 days


posted 635 days ago

Wow. Very cool. Something like this would take me weeks to build (once I thought and planned for months)!

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

9496 posts in 866 days


posted 635 days ago

Looks like a nice quick little project that’s coming along great!

I had to google “tansu” style. Very cool.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

View Tomcat1066's profile

Tomcat1066

776 posts in 674 days


posted 635 days ago

Cool little project Dorje. Tansu chests are just plain neat to me. I’m definitely looking forward to seeing it finished.

-- "Give me your poor tools, your tired steel, your huddled masses of rust." Yep, I ripped off the Statue of Liberty. That's how I roll!

View Scott Bryan's profile (online now)

Scott Bryan

20061 posts in 700 days


posted 635 days ago

Nice project Dorje, as always. I will have to follow Gary’s trail and google Tansu. I am completely in the dark about the style but this gives me a chance to learn something new today- and that is what this site is about.

I like the tip on turning the boards inside out. I am not sure I can quite visualize this yet but it makes me want to run out to the shop and cut some miters to find out. This is definitely “thinking outside the box”.

Thanks for the post I’m anxious to see the finished product (but don’t be shy about posting some more construction pictures if you have an opportunity).

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

View SteveL's profile

SteveL

65 posts in 646 days


posted 635 days ago

I don’t know what you would consider to be “perfect” miters but those look pretty darn tight to me. You are going to “key” these with sliding dovetail keys, or what? I’ll be looking forward to seeing the finished result, but it sure looks like it’s going to turn out very nice. I like the grain and figure you chose for the carcase sides.

-- SteveL

View Damian Penney's profile

Damian Penney

1022 posts in 869 days


posted 635 days ago

How to explain.. I’m thinking you could chamfer, or even roundover ala Maloof, the inside edges of the case, and then recess the drawers. Currently at the corners you have a miter running in the x – y plane, the roundover /chamfer would be in the x – z plane (front to back). The dividers would then scooch back a little, and be flush with the newly chamfered/rounded over edges. Make any sense at all?

Something along the lines of this

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

View sharad's profile

sharad

686 posts in 683 days


posted 635 days ago

Excellent job. Lot of things to learn for me
Sharad

-- patanjali

View Blake's profile

Blake

2715 posts in 752 days


posted 634 days ago

Really nice, Dorje.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1768 posts in 875 days


posted 634 days ago

Thanks all for your comments -

Damien - I get it – with the explanation even (can you hear Yogi the Bear?)...I like the idea, and I suppose it’s not too late to do it. I left 1/2” solid wood on the stopped dadoes and could rip the back of the divider a bit narrower…hmmm…Let me think about it… I guess a chamfer bit on the router table would do the trick, followed by squaring the corners…seems do-able and not a ton of time for set-up…

SteveL – sliding dovetail keys are more than I want to do on this project – they were considered though! The keys will be simple 1/8” flat walnut stock.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View scottb's profile

scottb

3391 posts in 1205 days


posted 634 days ago

I love tansu – I will be making a dresser or some such in that style someday. Next house methinks.

re: Flipping the boards inside out, you mean after resawing them? Great tip.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso -- http://blanchardcreative.etsy.com -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1768 posts in 875 days


posted 634 days ago

Scott – I just mean that I looked at the end grain growth rings, and based on that I used the inside of the tree as the show surface. The boards used for the main carcase were not resawn for this project. Just a little tip I remembered Karson talking about hearing from Frank Klausz. I’m thinking/guessing that Klausz’ many years taught him that the inside of the tree showed just a hint more chatoyance or something along those lines. I don’t recall hearing the purpose, only that it was stated. Maybe I better hunt down that post…

Here’s the quote from Karson's blog entry:

Key points [made by Klausz]: Always make the outside, visible piece of wood the innermost surface of the piece of lumber. If it is flat sawn the outer surface of the board is closest to the bark. Make that surface the inside of what every you are making.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View Mark Mazzo's profile

Mark Mazzo

343 posts in 791 days


posted 633 days ago

Dorje,

Looking very nice so far. Are you going to install traditional Tansu hardware (at the corners etc.)? Can’t wait to see more!

-- Mark, Webster New York, Visit my website at http://thecraftsmanspath.com

View scottb's profile

scottb

3391 posts in 1205 days


posted 633 days ago

Thanks for that clarification. I re-read that several times and formed the wrong conclusion. Great tip – very Nakashima! Now I won’t forget it.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso -- http://blanchardcreative.etsy.com -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

3709 posts in 858 days


posted 633 days ago

Hi Dorje;

Nice project so far…

I think we all need to build something for kicks once in a while. Takes the client problem away.

I have one of those problems now that’s especially nuts.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1768 posts in 875 days


posted 631 days ago

Mark – I think I will install some tansu style hardware…

Lee - this was supposed to be a quick “for kicks” project that, I’m afraid, is going to get drawn out longer than I anticipated…when will I learn?

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

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