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|05-21-2013 01:10 PM||
Live Edge Table Top - 3 replies
I’m making a sofa table and will be using some slabs of mesquite with full bark on the live edges (the boards have been stickered for a couple of years). Is it okay to keep all of the bark and spray the varnish in all of the nooks and crannies, or will the bark fall off in the future and make the piece less attractive? I’ve never w...
|05-18-2013 11:59 PM||
Table Top Size - 4 replies
I have some mesquite slabs about 4’ long and 10 or so inches wide, with live edges. I had planned on making a narrow sofa table, but as I look at the slabs, I’m afraid they may be too narrow, especially when considering tipping hazards if little hands try to grab ahold. Any thoughts on how to make such a table with the slabs I have...
|04-23-2013 04:46 PM||
Multi-Light Door - 1 reply
I’m making a 15 light door and have a question: In regards to the mullions, is it better to have the vertical or horizontal mullions be continuous. I’ll have 3 lights per row with 5 rows. Therefore, I’ll have 2 vertical mullions and 4 horizontal mullions. I have an Amana set of bits, and it’s example keeps the horizon...
|03-13-2013 05:33 PM||
Escutcheon Key Hole Size - 2 replies
This is the first time I’m installing a half-mortise lock. I’ve drilled the perfect size hole for the key to fit into the lock. However, the hole of the escutcheon is somewhat larger than the actual key. Is it proper to make the key hole size to mirror the escutcheon or to make it just fit the key? This is on a period piece in ca...
|03-12-2013 11:23 PM||
Which Fence Facing? - 2 replies
For those who have a SawStop and have added the Incra TS System, what type of fencing material did you use to ‘face’ the Incra’s fence? Also, any recommendations in the installation? Thanks.
|03-01-2013 11:45 PM||
SawStop and Incra - 16 replies
I have a 52” SawStop and am thinking about adding in Incra system to include a router table and lift on the right side. Any pictures of your SawStop/Incra systems and/or recommendations of what to get and where to purchase it from. Thanks so much.
|01-31-2013 07:21 PM||
Delta Mortise Chisel Bit - 3 replies
The Freud bit set I’m using to build some cabinet doors resulted in extended tenons that are ~7/32” thick. I have a Delta Table top Mortising Machine, but the smallest chisel bit I have is 1/4”. Does anyone know of a source for smaller chisel bits? My only recourse is to drill and chisel out the mortises….oh, how I hat...
|01-30-2013 07:19 PM||
Boo - Hoo - 11 replies
I was just out in the shop…turned on my 3hp Griz dust collection system and I heard a pop, turned around and saw some sparks and smoke coming out of the on/off control panel. Bummer!!
|01-28-2013 07:47 PM||
Raised Panel & Divided Light Cabinet Doors - 12 replies
I’m making a single door with two raised panels; I’ll also be making a 15 light door. That will necessitate a vertical center mutin for the raised panel door (or whatever that piece is called) and several mutins/sashes for the divided light door. I’m thinking the weight of the doors might put too much strain on a standard stu...
|12-14-2012 08:05 PM||
Wooden Dominos - 11 replies
I saw the following domino set at a recent furniture show in Kerrville, TX: The only templates I’ve been able to find are from Rockler. Has anyone used this set of templates before and if so, any lessons learned? Also, what paint did you use and how did you apply it? The picture above appears to have really uniform dots throughou...
|08-02-2012 09:44 PM||
LED Lighting - 2 replies
I’m building a 1700’s reproduction corner cabinet out of walnut. My wife wants cabinet lighting installed, so I guess it will be an updated period piece. The shelving is solid walnut and is only 3/4” thick, and the cabinet is closed with a 15 light door. To keep the heat at a minimum, I’m thinking about using LED light...
|07-08-2012 09:05 PM||
Divided Light Routing - 1 reply
I’m building a corner cabinet that will have a divided light door ~ 22” x 44”, with 15 separate panes of glass. Back some time ago, during the initial planning, I thought the Sommerfield Divided Light router bit set would be the best way to go. With the size of the door and its potential weight, I think a standard door constr...
|03-24-2012 03:48 PM||
Bug Holes - 1 reply
I have some walnut that has some tiny pin holes in it. I’m using a hypo needle to inject alcohol in each hole just to make sure that any bugs that may be there are killed. The question I have is, is alcohol strong enough to kill any bugs if they do exist? Thanks.
|03-15-2012 11:50 PM||
Square Cut Nails - 6 replies
I will be using square cut nails for the first time in building a colonial reporduction. I’ll use them to attach varied width lapped paneling on the back of a corner cabinet. The paneling will be 1/2” walnut, with the nails attached through the paneling into 3/4” thick shelves. The grain of the paneling will be running verti...
|03-05-2012 06:20 PM||
Bug Holes - 1 reply
I purchased about 150 bf of walnut a little over a year ago and stickered it until now. I’m dimensioning it now for an upcoming build. I’ve noticed that many of the boards have pen holes from bugs. I’m not sure if they are active or not, as there is little if any sawdust on the boards. In case there are active little critte...
|02-28-2012 04:16 PM||
Lumber Dimensioning - 4 replies
I purchased about 150 bf of walnut from a N Caroling mill a little over a year ago. It had been kilned dried w/o steam. I stickered it and am now ready to start dimensioning the lumber. I know the typical process is to first joint the flat side in prep of planing the opposite side. The boards are about 9’ x 8”-14” x 1.15...
|02-23-2012 03:26 PM||
Benchtop Finish - 4 replies
I’ve just finished putting a coat of varnish on my benchtop. It is about 2 1/4” thick and is solid white oak laminated on edge. With that thickness, is it necessary to varnish the bottom side as well? It is too heavy to flip over and would really be a mess to varnish…but, if necessary, I will.
|02-10-2012 11:38 PM||
Quick Release Front Vise Installation - 0 replies
I purchased a quick release front vise from Peachtree that is similar to the Woodcraft one with a model #17A11. I’ve read the Woodcraft install instructions and ‘think’ I have it almost figured out. It says to be very careful when taking off the quick release nut, as it has to be repositioned perfectly. For anyone that has i...
|01-27-2012 11:30 PM||
Vise Installation - 7 replies
I’m getting ready to install a 9” Groz fast release vise to my new workbench. The benchtop is a little less than 2 1/2” thick of laminated white oak. I’ve routed a recess a little less than 1/2” from the top of the workbench top so that the rear vise plate is below the surface and flush to the side of the benchtop...
|11-09-2011 05:46 PM||
Big Mistake - 2 replies
Without thinking, I gave some Watco Danish Oil Finish to my father-in-law to finish some cabinet fronts that had been marred and scratched. After putting this on all of the kitchen cabinets, it became apparent that it was a mistake, as the finish is not drying. Since the old finish was not removed, I guess there is no place for the oil to go, ...