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Unisaw Rehab #10: Reporting for Duty!

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Blog entry by Don Broussard posted 09-09-2013 07:33 PM 1951 reads 1 time favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 9: Slight Backtrack Part 10 of Unisaw Rehab series no next part

The new paint on the wings is dry and the saw is ready for reassembly (again). I installed the wings, the blade guard, fence rails and fence this morning. I did a short video of a through cut on a strip of 3/4” plywood but I’m not having any success posting it (yet).

I noted in an earlier blog comment that the tip of the 10” blade, even at its lowest, it still above the top of the insert. This cut shows the height of the blade as a very small dado in 3/4” plywood.

I am still waiting on the delivery of the dust door I bought. I’ll clean and repaint the dust door in the same Rustoleum Smoke Gray and update the blog once it’s installed. I also need to get some JB Weld and test that out a bit before applying it to the saw top.

Other than the dust door and possibly a small JB Weld repair, I’m declaring this rehab done and ready for duty!

Thanks for following along with the rehab. I enjoyed having you along.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!



9 comments so far

View HillbillyShooter's profile

HillbillyShooter

5811 posts in 1754 days


#1 posted 09-09-2013 08:49 PM

Looks like something is preventing the blade carriage from going all the way down. The blade should retract below the surface (unless that was a 9” TS). I wish I had a better idea, because you sure have done a beautiful job resorting a fine old Delta TS!

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View NormG's profile

NormG

5499 posts in 2466 days


#2 posted 09-10-2013 12:32 AM

Unisaw, we have a problem. It may be that it is a 9” saw, but from the appearance it appears maybe not. Something is stopping the blade form retracting completely. Check into the cabinet and see it something is blocking it

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2152 days


#3 posted 09-10-2013 12:53 AM

A very ambitious project that turned out well. I never doubted you! Maybe you could add some spacers under the tabletop to raise it up a bit if the exposed blade is a problem?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3019 posts in 1713 days


#4 posted 09-10-2013 03:03 AM

Thanks for the compliments and comments. Re: the exposed blade, since the blade guard is in place, I judge that it’s safe for production. The blade that came with the saw was also a 10” blade, and it was below the insert when I got it. I’m pretty confident that it’s a 10” saw. I do need to remove the blade and verify that it is indeed a 10” blade and not a 10-3/32” or some oversized blade (unlikely). I suspect that I mismatched the arbor installation on the worm gear when I reinstalled it. The spacer idea is a practical one if I accept that I’d be giving up the spacer thickness in depth of cut—thanks Andy.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

View cpd011's profile

cpd011

90 posts in 2699 days


#5 posted 09-11-2013 02:06 AM

Things are looking good. I’m glad you got the parts and I assume everything installed correctly. As for the blade lowering all the way, if your belts are a hair too long, the motor may be resting on part of the base cut out. I had a problem when I rehabbed mine and used link belts, after running it for a bit I had to remove a link because the motor was resting on the base cutout and preventing the full range of movement.

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3019 posts in 1713 days


#6 posted 09-12-2013 02:44 PM

@cpd011—Thanks again for the blade guard, rails and blade guard support. They went on to the saw without incident. i did repaint the blade guard support bracket before installation. I will check out the belt length and motor contacting the cutout. I did replace the old belts with a matched set of belts of the same size.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3135 days


#7 posted 10-13-2013 08:24 PM

Congrats on finishing restoring your Unisaw.

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

3392 posts in 1666 days


#8 posted 08-26-2015 11:39 PM

Don I looked back at your rebuild work and was going to suggest checking set screws which adjust the stops at 90 and 45 but could not see any.

Usually the blade goes well below the surface so something is asembled incorrectly (have you got any parts left over, not trying to be funny but as gfadvm suggested the table may have had spacers.
Another check is to fit the blade guard splitter and elevate the blade to its max height if it comes too close or touches the guard its an incorrect size blade. Odd the effect was not obvious at the outset.

-- Regards Robert

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3019 posts in 1713 days


#9 posted 08-27-2015 12:19 AM

Thanks for the observation, Rob. I didn’t have any parts left over. I suspect that there is some sawdust/obstruction in the blade elevation mechanism. It doesn’t really bother me so I haven’t put a lot of effort into correcting it. My saw is always unplugged when I’m not in the shop, so I’m not too worried about someone else coming into contact with that segment of the blade.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

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