In Mark’s DeCou’s blog entitled, The Woodworking Show in Kansas City…, he comments on the Router Raizer from Router Technologies, and since I own one, I thought some might be interested in this item installed in a Triton Router.
(Not to confuse, the larger of the two Triton Routers, the 3 1/4hp TRA001, does not have an above-table raising mechanism factory installed. The smaller version, MOF001KC 2 1/4hp, reviewed here, does. However, my guess would be that Triton will start manufacturing the TRA001 with this feature.)
The installation is fairly straight-forward, but it does take about 1.5 hours to complete. (I went particularly slowly, because it involves modifying the router and I didn’t want to mess up.)
The kit is universal, designed to fit many of the commonly used routers. Don’t you just hate purchasing parts that you will never use? Although many are common to all routers, there are also a goodly number that are unique to the router you are retro-fitting.
The Router Raizer installs down the inside of the shaft of the micro-adjustable plunge-post. (This is the one with the spring cover cap that holds the compression spring. This spring is normally removed if being used in a table.) According to the instructions, it is necessary to use the long spring that I took out when I purchased this router 2 years ago. I was pleased that I could easily locate it.
The dust covers and bottom sub-base plate needs to be removed, and the pin that holds the shaft to the base needs to be knocked out. This goes through the hollow plunge post from one side to the other. Because the main shaft of the Router Raizer goes through this post the factory installed pin interferes. So two split pins need to be installed either side of the post to hold it to the bottom of the router. The main shaft of the Router Raizer also needs to be shortened to a specified length to fit the router. This is done with a hack-saw.
As long as one checks off the individual steps, reading carefully as one proceeds, anyone with a moderate mechanical aptitude shouldn’t have any difficulties. Some of the parts have very similar names, so caution is required. For example, I became momentarily confused by the terms “green drive pin” and “green roll pin”. Both of these parts are referred to in the same paragraph.
The only difficulty I encountered was locating where to drill the holes through the two pressed metal plates for the winder. The shaft winder has to go through the top router plate, and the quick-mount sub-plate. The locater pin used to drill through the router base and the template mounting plate does not extend far enough to mark these two plates. I overcame this by measuring carefully and hit the mark exactly.
It looks like a well designed kit, with well engineered pieces that look like they are part of the router. It makes precise height adjustments from above the table very easy and I’ve had no complaints with it since it was installed.
Triton router with spring cover cap, plastic dust sheilds removed
Close-up of spring cover cap with drive nut installed
Spring cover cap with main shaft installed
Router installed in table with through-top main crank handle inserted
One of the great features of the Triton Router is that it was designed for table mounting. I believe the instructions that come with the Triton router discuss the merit of removing the long plunge-spring if the router is to be left in the table mode. This spring is purely for the purpose of quickly returning the router to its non-plunged mode when using out of the table as a plunge router. When installed in the table permanently, gravity causes the router to fall to its highest (under the table “the lowest”) position. The spring makes raising the router bit more difficult than it need be.
I also have a good Makita 3612 Router that I use for free-hand routing, so for me the Triton never comes out of the table.
The primary advantage of the R.R. is that it easily facilitates micro adjustments from a standing position when your view-point is directly above, or adjacent to, the router bit. No more down on your haunches under the table. With the handle installed above the table, it takes no time to crank the router bit its full travel distance by simply twirling the crank handle with ones thumb.
Unlike all other remotely similar accessories, this device allows this operation to be done from either the top of the router or the bottom. This means that it is just as easy to do in a router table as it is to do when used in hand-held operations (when shaft spring is installed).
I love it, and cheaper than any other device I’ve seen that accomplishes the same thing. (Well almost the same thing, this is the only raiser that also works from below the table and out of the table.) It’s a perfect compliment to the Triton Router with its above table bit changing capability. Once you use one, you wouldn’t go back.
[To remain perfectly open about my shop developments, this article was written about twelve months ago. I have subsequently replaced my Triton Router Table shown in the last picture. Part of this upgrade was to install the UniLIFT.]
-- CanuckDon "I just love small wooden boxes!" http://www.dpb-photos.com/