Myrtle Anniversary Shaker Table

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Blog series by DoctorDan updated 05-14-2011 11:34 AM 19 parts 36325 reads 31 comments total

Part 1: The Beginning

07-04-2010 05:51 AM by DoctorDan | 2 comments »

Wood is the traditional present to celebrate 5 years of happy marriage. With this inspiration I’ve decided to make for us a family dinning table in the same style as the shaker trestle I built in 2008. The timber (from Boutique Timbers) is Tasmania Myrtle (Nothofagus Cunninghamii). I have 6 1” boards of fiddle back, and 6 2” slabs (with faults) to make the project from. The overall style will be the same as the 2008 Blackbutt table. The size is slightly larger 1m ...

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Part 2: Getting Dressed in the Morning

07-06-2010 02:43 AM by DoctorDan | 1 comment »

The first step in furniture construction involves transforming the rough timber (cut in a paddock from a fallen tree and then air dried) into flat and square timber. This process is called ‘dressing’ the timber or because it is often done by machine ‘machining’. Takings rough timber… ... and making it flat and four square. For the technique I use to dress timber check out the blog – Getting Dressed in the Morning @ The Love Of Wood.

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Part 3: Sticking Together - Glue Up Tips

07-08-2010 12:50 AM by DoctorDan | 0 comments »

Gluing Tips1. Always do a dry a fit. Always. Put everything together without glue and make sure it fits firmly with out a slight tap or pressure.2. Have all your clamps, cawls, and protective scraps at the ready.3. You can always use more clamps (usually you’ll need a clamp at least every 30cm.)4. Understand your glue. Wood glues (eg. PVA) absorb into the wood and cross link. Zero gap is good for these glues. Epoxies can bridge small gaps and act as space fillers. Hide glue is warm wate...

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Part 4: Ewww Pretty

07-10-2010 09:20 AM by DoctorDan | 2 comments »

The center pieces for the Shaker Table is fiddleback (an alternating grain pattern) Tasmania Myrtle (Nothofagus Cunninghamii). Although, I’ve had the timber for 12 months, only now that it’s dressed I can start to appreciate the colours and grain. In these photos I’ve splashed the table with some methylated spirits to show how the timber would looked like oiled. Timber sourced from Boutique Timbers. We’ve had some debate at the Woodwork Forums about pro̵...

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Part 5: Breadboards

07-24-2010 04:43 AM by DoctorDan | 1 comment »

Last week I’ve made some solid progress on the top. I have all four braces now installed and made headway on the breadboards. The breadboards need some fine tuning to get a good fit. I don’t want to make them too lose so I’m waiting for a bit of time to re-sharpen the plane for some trial and error. I’ve uploaded pics to the blog of the steps involved. Part 1 - The DesignPart 2 - The MortisesPart 3 - The TenonsAsutralian Woodwork Forums

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Part 6: Square Peg in a Round Hole (aka. Making Dowel)

07-28-2010 04:10 AM by DoctorDan | 1 comment »

As a little indulgence I’m going to use ebony dowel (disopyros sp.) for the joinery in the Anniversary Table. I purchased this small piece from Trend Timbers at the Sydney Wood Show which today I started forming into dowel. In the past I’ve used a small lathe to produce dowel for a similar purchase (see rosewood turnings.) Although you can purchase high quality dowel plates, it’s actually not too hard to make your own. Today I’m going to use a shop made dowel plate...

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Part 7: Flat Top

08-01-2010 01:44 PM by DoctorDan | 2 comments »

Breadboards attached… Dowels In Situ… Table Flattened… Ready for sanding… More info on the blog.

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Part 8: Sneak Peak: The tabletop after a coat of oil...

08-06-2010 08:24 AM by DoctorDan | 2 comments »

Flattening the top by hand with a Stanley no 7 resulted in some mild tear out. Switching to abrasives, I used a belt sander (120grit) and a random orbit sander (120 to 1200 grit.) At around 600 grit I coated the top with a diluted coat of UBeaut White Shellac which acts as a pore sealer and allows the oil to penetrate more easily. The oil of choice for this job is Organoil Hard Bunishing Oil is a tung oil based product (see Stu's Shed.) Only a thin coat is needed, the excess rubbed off at...

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Part 9: Woe is me... Curved Legs Aren't Simple

08-07-2010 12:46 PM by DoctorDan | 3 comments »

Woe is me. I can’t decide on the legs. The ideal plan would be to steam bend, or laminate the legs. The short grain weakness is the problem… If I laminate I don’t think I could to the tight curve of the foot and would need to attach a foot… which would be obvious. If I steam bent and then laminate I could make all the curves… but I can’t think of a mould to do it… It is possible to do all of this… but I only have 4 days to do it&#...

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Part 10: Shaker Bench Design

08-08-2010 01:20 PM by DoctorDan | 1 comment »

I’d like some feed back on some bench design modification. I’m attempting to remake this traditional shaker table and bench with back support. The design calls for a flat bench, parallel to the floor. I’ve sloped mine slightly (20mm over the 300mm width.) I’m also using thicker material 40mm cf. 16mm. Any feedback will be welcome. SketchUp Examples

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Part 11: The Legs (Thanks for the Tip DenverDave)

08-10-2010 01:39 PM by DoctorDan | 4 comments »

The legs. I’ve debated the leg long and hard. Thought of steam bending, bent lamination, straight grain timber, and combinations of the above. In the end I decided to join two pieces to maximize long grain strength… which of course means a joint in the middle. After making a template, rough cutting and machining the piece, I then used a jigsaw to cut a closer but still rough outline of the leg. Using a chisel, a marking knife and some patients I outlined my cuts. ...

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Part 12: Ebony on my Curvy Legs...

08-13-2010 09:33 AM by DoctorDan | 2 comments »

Quick post to show the hand cut ebony inlay. After reading the latest FWW I’m inspired to make some ebony wedges for the stretcher which should match the vertical lines of the inlay.

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Part 13: Tenon testing my new LN Saws

09-11-2010 03:09 AM by DoctorDan | 1 comment »

As always in woodworking the first step is marking out. To form the tenon I needed to remove 6mm of material on each face, and 15mm at each edge. For this task I use a vesper marking knife, a veritas wheel guage, and a square. (See layout tips.) The first cut is done with my 14” LN rip tenon saw to cut down each face. Under the dust you can see I’m using a Bench Crafted vice in the sliding position to secure the piece. A simple tip from Derek Cohen was to have the b...

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Part 14: ?Curve the upright?

11-06-2010 10:01 AM by DoctorDan | 3 comments »

I’ve got the legs together now. I feel the upright is a little thick. I’m thinking of bowing the sides with a gentle curve of about 1-1.5cm in from each side. What are peoples thoughts? I thought to centre it or have it off centre opposite to where the stretcher tennon will come through.

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Part 15: Leg Joinery

11-06-2010 10:06 AM by DoctorDan | 2 comments »

Here’s some pictures of the joinery. All done by hand (except my coping saw blade broke and the jigsaw was closer than the store.) I had a bit of a blow out while chiseling from the top, still have the piece to go back in. I think I’ll end up wedging all the tenons. You’ll notice the two bottom ones are different sizes to allow for the sliding dovetail.

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Part 16: Shaping the Bench Legs

01-11-2011 06:24 AM by DoctorDan | 2 comments »

With the (near) completion of the Christmas Boxes I’ve had some time to work on the Anniversary Table. Over the past two days I’ve worked on shaping the blanks I prepared back in October. The two benches will have three solid legs. Each leg is made of ~40mm Tas. Mrytle. The back is formed by a straight taper and a gentle curve. The front has a gentle curve to match the table leg (seen in the background.) The detail is an ellipse found in traditional design. The boards b...

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Part 17: Nearly somewhere to sit...

02-16-2011 06:00 AM by DoctorDan | 0 comments »

I was getting a bit worried that this ‘woodworking blog’ had very little actually ‘woodworking’. However with better weather, a dust extractor back in action, and some free time; today I was able to get back to work on the Anniversary Shaker table. The two benches are nearly ready for sanding and finishing. The various sections will be glued and screwed together, with the screws covered in ebony plugs.

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Part 18: So that's what it'll look like...

02-27-2011 01:07 AM by DoctorDan | 1 comment »

The Anniversary table has been a long time in the coming. To check proportions and decide on final sizing and shaping I assembled the piece in our small courtyard. The shaker inspired modern table is a 2×1m trestle table with two benches capable of sitting eight comfortably. The benches will be assembled with long screws covered by ebony plugs – keeping the detail of the top. In the shaker design which uses 3/4” timber (cf. 1 1/2” timber in my piece) there...

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Part 19: Filling

05-14-2011 11:34 AM by DoctorDan | 1 comment »

Link to the original blog post The first thirty minutes of shop time I’ve had in 6 weeks was spent reviewing the pews. It gave me an opportunity to see the results of various filling experiments I tried on the project. (Of course it’s recommended do technique ‘experiments’ on scraps prior to the actual project, but this time it’s on the project.) The first ‘filling’ job was the plugs to cover the screws. Made with the Veritas Snug Plug cutters f...

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