Over the past two days I’ve been working on the dovetails on my Wax Melter Project. I haven’t had to use dovetails for about 9 months and am using new toys I’ve acquired in that time, including saw and bench.
I’m interested in any feedback from people on my technique, design, planing, prevention of errors, anything. The rest of the WIP is on my blog.
The twin leg vice combination truly excels at this task. It securely holds edge side the entire length of the vice. (I did notice some flex in the middle of the pine board which required stablisation with my left hand.)
A 2cm tail is marked every 5cm. I used the Vertias 1:6 dovetail marker, a mechanical pencil, vertias wheel gauge, and a 1m rule to achieve this. You’ll note that both sides are in the vice allowing me to cut tails on both boards at once speeding production.
This is the first time I’ve been able to test my new Wenzloff & Sons Dovetail saw. A nice tool to handle and quick to use.
Both sides complete.
Using eclipse blades in a stanley coping saw I removed the bulk of the waste.
I then cleared up to the waste with a chisel. I used the cut tails and a vesper marking knife to layout the pins on the corresponding board. The pins were cut using the same above technique.
One side complete. Three to go.
I do have to show some errors though. (Fortunately this project is to be painted so the final product will not be effected.)
You can see the rabbet for the base board. Ideally this would be a stopped rabbet or mitred so it cannot be scene. I’m intested in about others would get around this project.
In some of my earlier chiseling my chisel wasn’t sharp enough and I had some resulting blow out and damage to the surface some of which will need some putty filler.
-- Daniel - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

















12 comments so far
Safetyboy
home | projects | blog
118 posts in 1928 days
#1 posted 915 days ago
That’s about how I do it (though without the double-sliding leg vise). Don’t know of any other additional pointers except to practice, practice, practice.
-- -- Kevin in Mentor, Ohio
wseand
home | projects | blog
1549 posts in 1211 days
#2 posted 915 days ago
They look good to me. I am certainly no expert but if they hold and look descent then they are good in my book.
-- Bill - "Freedon flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy
Scott R. Turner
home | projects | blog
181 posts in 1357 days
#3 posted 915 days ago
That’s probably better than I can do, although that’s hardly setting the bar high. There’s probably a limit to how well you can dovetail in soft pine.
I’m curious about the rabbet question as well. You can hide the rabbet in one direction by putting it on the socket, but in the other direction you need to stop it. I’ve done that when cutting the rabbet on my router table, but it seems more problematic doing it with the table saw.
Marc5
home | projects | blog
301 posts in 1511 days
#4 posted 915 days ago
That’s a lot of dovetails! I think you are doing good. I chisel my dovetails starting from the inside going half way and flip the board over to complete the chiseling. This really helps eliminate blow out and if it happens, it is on the inside of the project.
-- Marc
Moron
home | projects | blog
4436 posts in 2062 days
#5 posted 915 days ago
what is the point in cutting hand dovetails that could be passed for being made by a machine?
the “pin” should always be “skinny” enough so that there is no mistake, it should always be thin enough so that there is ZERO doubt that it was done by hand as router bits only come so small.
otherwise, you might as well use a jig ?
study old furniture, you certainly have the skill to get it right.
-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso
sras
home | projects | blog
3244 posts in 1298 days
#6 posted 915 days ago
I remembered seeing a stefang share blog post on how to close in gaps on dovetails. Luckily, I found it here – definitely worth looking at. From what I can tell, you are making great progress…
-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive
Eagle1
home | projects | blog
2043 posts in 1233 days
#7 posted 914 days ago
I haven’t really done that many dovetails. But I really like the vise you are using there. Is it your own design?
-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened
Tim
home | projects | blog
1292 posts in 1734 days
#8 posted 914 days ago
Definitely check out stefang’s blog that Steve mentioned. Regarding the stopped dado, I think you do as much as you can with a plow plane then finish the stopped ends with a router plane.
-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.
TheGravedigger
home | projects | blog
963 posts in 2193 days
#9 posted 914 days ago
The only other solution I know of for a through dovetail like that is to plug the opening with a piece of matching wood. Of course this is still visible. If it were a half-blind, you could hide it in a tail, but Timbo’s suggestion is all I can think of as well.
-- Robert - Visit my woodworking blog: http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com
rkoorman
home | projects | blog
356 posts in 993 days
#10 posted 914 days ago
i normally plug the opening with a piece of wood, it almost disappears completely. the nicest would be on a routertable.
rick
-- http://thewoodworkersattic.blogspot.com/
lew
home | projects | blog
8983 posts in 1924 days
#11 posted 914 days ago
You can reduce/eliminate the blow out by chiseling out the waste from one side, about half way through the material. Then flip the piece over and chisel from the opposite side towards the middle.
-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!
RonPeters
home | projects | blog
709 posts in 1049 days
#12 posted 914 days ago
Very nice! As good as any router jig affair!
I like the fancy wheels on the bench too….and chrome no less!
-- “Once more unto the breach, dear friends...” Henry V - Act III, Scene I
Have your say...