Wow. I’ve had a busy weekend, but unfortunately I was not able to finish as much as I wanted.
Since I knew I was going to be using my router, I first fixed the problem I had with it.
I cut my stock to width and length, and I regret having cut the carcase pieces it to length. This made the next step, running it through the router, much trickier, since I had to use my push-pad to control a 3-1/2” long piece as it was getting a rabbet cut on it! It wanted to pull itself into the blade when it was not being supported by the fence. I guess I do need a zero-clearance insert on my fence.. (apologies to Snowdog).
This is the output from my routing. Things went OK, except I had some tearout on one of my short carcase ends.
Was that cut twice and measure once, or was it the other way around? This is what happens when you don’t read your own plans, and forget to deduct 1/4” for floating panels.
Carcase with top off, and on. – NO GLUE yet
Generous amount of glue, before being spread with toothbrush.
Here’s where my judgement lapsed… I forgot the “tape the joints together” trick, and so relied on clamps to assemble the carcase. I did not achieve the nice tight joints that my mitered ends deserved. Perhaps next time!
Repairing the tearout at the top (visible edge!) of a carcase end.
Carcases fully assembled, with one lid on, and the other lid upside down. Douglas Bordner and Cajunpen, the lever action is due to the rabbet along the end of the lid, as can be seen on the lid that is upside down. I forgot to take a photo of the lid in action, but when you press down on either end, the opposite end tilts up so you can remove the lid.
I wanted to put some miter keys into the joints, so I needed to fashion myself a sled to hold my box. This is my sled during the glue-up phase.
Though I have no pics from the end of the day, I left my project with birch (?) keys inserted and drying.
Now all that remains is to trim and sand the keys flush, sand the entire exterior (interior was done pre-assembly), and apply a finish. Does anyone have experience with finishing lacewood? Any suggestions, or is Danish Oil a good option? I’m looking for something that will give some depth to the lacewood’s natural figure.
-- Dekker - http://www.WoodworkDetails.com/