I’m nearly done with the drill press table, but am stalled waiting on some t-track for the fence. It will be here sometime next week.
So I have jumped into the next project: A table for my Ridgid Bandsaw. Here’s a BEFORE shot:
I am using some phenolic coated Baltic birch that I got from Rockler. I really like this stuff. No voids at all. It rips on my TS without chips. I can’t scratch it with my fingernails no matter how hard I try. Not so with lacquer, poly, shellac, etc.
The size will be 25 1/2” wide and 21 3/4” deep. I will use only one thickness of the phenolic directly onto the cast iron table (screwed from beneath). I’ll trim the edges with a skirt of maple, just like I have already done the fence.
I’m cheap, kind of… ;=) (that’s what is called a shot from left field that some of you will get) ... so I am gluing up some maple drops to use as the skirts on front and both sides (not the back). The blade scorches will be down, of course.
There are so few bandsaw tables that I have just been planning based on my known needs. Now please correct me if I have got this wrong, but there should be no need for a fence t-track on a bandsaw since stops and/or hold downs will not be necessary. Maybe a downward facing feather board, but not really. Is that right ?
The fence will have its two t-tracks on the table running front to back. I am putting a combo miter track / t-track on the table between the blade and the front. I’ll need to have a slit from blade position to one side so that I can get the table on and off without removing the blade. Come on, guys… double check behind me, please.
That’s it for today, but I will post as the project progresses.
Thanks for stopping in.
-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia