CessanaPilotBarry asked awhile ago if someone could make this and offer a package.

I have done that. You can order a pack (28 arms – 1 sheet of 3/4” MDF) that will support 28 of your parts for drying. The horizontal spacing between the arms is ~10.5”. The vertical spacing between arms is ~2.5”. The package does not include the base you would need to mount it to. This is normally a piece of plywood with some casters on it to roll it around where you need. The arms assemble and disassemble very easily and store in a small amount of space.

One person has already ready ordered 4 packages and they absolutely love them. It’s made their finishing process much more efficient.

The price includes all material, shipping supplies, CNC time, labor to round over all the edges and packing them for shipping. The only thing not included in the price is the actual shipping amount. This is calculated on an order by order basis as each destination is going to be a little bit different. Unlike most companies, I do NOT make shipping a profit center and make huge $$$ from it. I charge exactly what the shipping company (USPS) charges me.

The package cost is $160. It will ship in two boxes measuring 48” long by 6” high by 6” wide. The boxes weight about 22lbs each. My ship from zip code is 99156 if you want to calculate the shipping yourself. I normally ship via USPS as UPS in my area tends to damage everything they touch.

Contact me directly to place an order: don@dlwoodworks.com

Made two of these for a customer to go with an armoire. Made from walnut plywood and solid walnut. Cabinet joinery is all mortise and tenon joinery. Finish is alcohol based analyne dye, amber shellac and conversion varnish.

This is a simple little hall table I built for a customer several years ago. Woods: Bubinga, birdseye maple, hard maple, ebony.

Door/drawer pulls are hand carved ebony. Drawer is dovetailed front and back and made from maple. Customer loved the contrasting and complimenting of the different woods. Finish is hand rubbed Tried & True oil varnish.

As requested by several people after seeing my wall unit I posted here are pictures of the drying rack I use when spray finishing in my shop.

This drying rack design came from a colleague on another forum that I hang out on. I take no credit for the design.

The whole thing is made from a 32” x 32” MDO base with some casters attached. The stackable arms are made from 3/4” MDF and in my case I cut them on my CNC as I don’t have the patience to do this with a jig/band saw and a router template. Many people have made this rack using the jig/band saw and router template method so don’t think you need a CNC to cut all the parts. You can fit 28 arms per piece of 48×96 sheet of MDF. I’ve attached a couple of photos of the sheet layout.

The key to the whole rack is the interlocking arms that are tied together with the slots. These have to fit SNUGLY. If they don’t the drying rack will be very tippy and not very stable. You could put a heavy part on one side and the whole thing could tip over.

Each pair of arms can store 2 parts almost as wide as you want and up to about 20” deep. I’ve placed as many as 35 solid hickory raised panel cabinet doors on this rack for drying after spraying and had no problems. I’ve put bookshelf parts up to 5’ long and about 14” deep by 3/4” thick. It can hold parts up to about 1.25” thick.

If I’ve uploaded too many photos, I apologize to all.

If you have questions please feel free to contact me.

We delivered this hickory wall unit to a very happy customer about 2 weeks ago. Back of upper unit is all v-grooved T&G solid hickory. Mortise and tenon joinery is used throughout the project. Finish is Daleys Autum Sable stain and ML Campbell conversion varnish. The unit is 9’ 6” wide by 7’ 5” tall and is made up of the lower base with the doors and the upper section. The upper section weighed about 300 lbs.

The design was done by a very talented interior designer we work with.

The second picture shows the CNC machine cutting out parts from a sheet of hickory plywood.

The third picture is my portable drying rack that comes apart and stores under my tablesaw. Great design from a colleague who also owns the Shopbot CNC machine.

This was about 8 years ago that I had a really great day in the shop with each of my twin daughters. I spent a day with each one of them prepping the material and assembling their birdhouses. I don’t have pictures of them painted bu we spent many more hours together painting their birdhouses before we put them outside. They did a lot of the work.

Note the personal protective equipment (PPE). They still do that to this day and they are now 14.

It was one of the most enjoyable days I’ve ever had in the shop.

Thanks for looking.

This kitchen pantry unit is made from red oak plywood, solid red oak and melamine. The unit features a ton of storage space including – trash bin drawer, junk drawer, double sided full extension food storage area, cookbook storage area, microwave cubby behind tambore doors and slide out work tray under the microwave. The pantry features mortise and tenon for all plywood parts. Drawers are dovetailed. Food pantry has adjustable shelves to accommodate different food packages. The pantry was finished with 5 coats of brushed on Arm-R-Seal.

Thank you for looking.

This is my tablesaw setup I did about 4 years ago for my shop. It consists of two cabinets one on each side of the saw. I have a Delta cabinet saw with a 50” Beizmeir (sp?) aftermarket fence that only has a front rail assembly. This was screwed to the face of the cabinets and the tablesaw. The cabinets are made from off-the-shelf borg store 3/4” fir A/C plywood. All construction is dado joints. The drawers run on Accuride full-extension slides. The drawer pulls are the kind that are mounted into the drawer face as opposed to sticking out from the drawer face. The keeps the pulls from getting broken when they are hit with a sheet of plywood or a large heavy board. All the drawers can be configured anyway you can imaging for storing things. The large drawer on the right side has a simple blade holder that stores the vertically in a divider system. Again simple construction using glue and the nail gun. I applied about 3 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and it has held up well for many years. The surface is melamine.

I use it for much more the cutting stuff. It makes a great, LARGE, assembly table, workbench, finishing platform (when covered with painters paper) plus other things you can dream of. There is an over the blade guard and dust collector that keeps dust from blowing into my face from the saw blade.

I’ve made a Sketchup model of this and I’m trying to figure out how to make it available for download free. I’ll keep you posted on what I come up with.

Thanks for looking.

This is a cherry TV credenza and A/V component cabinet I did for a customer about 7 years ago. I found some rare rope figured 1/4” cherry plywood at my supplier and incorporated it into the panels. I used cherry, bubinga, jatoba, purple heart and ebony in this project. The back of the cabinets have hinged doors that make it easy for the customer to run wiring for components. Finish is about 10 coats of hand rubbed Arm-R-Seal. No stains or dyes were used.

This is a church pulpit we made for a church in Kentucky. It is made from solid and veneer East Indian rosewood. The legs are forms on which bendy plywood was attached. Then I used wood filler to make sure the bendy ply was extremely smooth. Then we had to attach veneer to the form using a vacuum press. The top section features many compound angles. There are wires running down inside the legs that enable the church to hook up audio equipment. The book rest features a suede cover to make sure the book doesn’t slide around. A final touch is a nice drink holder for a glass of water.

This was a real challenge to engineer and construct but the results were excellent.

This is a roll-around tool cabinet that is mostly done. It has been a work in progress for the last 6 years (get a little done here and there between paying projects). The only thing left to do is put on the upper doors and some door pulls. The dark wood is bubinga. The light wood is curly maple. The 4 long drawer faces are from 1 board giving a beautiful grain match across the 4 drawers. The upper 6 drawer faces are also from 1 board. The drawer pulls are made from bloodwood with ebony inlay. The upper doors will have bubinga rails and stiles and I’m still deciding on the panel material. The panels will either have inlays of square rigged ships or 3D carvings of a square rigged ship. Eventually the drawers will be lined with forest green felt.

Like I said, it is a work in progress even though I am using it everyday.

This is a collectors card storage box I made for my son a couple of years ago. He is an avid “Magic – The Gathering” player and card collector. He has several thousand cards. This box holds 5400 cards and is made from bubinga and curly maple. The internal dividers are adjustable. The box sides are joined using traditional box joinery. The dragon carving is a combination of CNC and hand carving. The finish is hand rubbed arm-r-seal.

This customer wanted a coffee table with a different look. Square was out for her. So I designed and built this freeform coffee table using bent form lamination and formed veneer work. It is made from maple with a bubinga inlay on the top.

We got tired of our cheap particle board TV stand falling apart more and more every time we tried to move it a little. So I put this one together. It is made from curly maple, bubinga, cherry and ebony.

This was an entertainment center we did a few years ago for a customer. It is made from maple plywood, solid maple and stained and clear coated with satin lacquer. It supports a 48” flat screen TV behind bi-fold pocket doors. The unit is 12’ from end to end and about 8’ tall. The black panels in the three lower center doors are speaker grill panels.

This is a fully working dump truck I made for my Nephew several years ago. I like to make toys out of all the scrap wood I have laying around the shop. Much better then sending it up the chimney.

We were recently approached by the RMEF to see if we wanted to donate something for their local fund raising banquet in March 2011.

The sign is made from western red cedar and colored using color fast ink and an outdoor oil. The cribbage board was made from curly maple and the 3D elk carving was finished using a multi-part staining process and finished with lacquer. The pins are solid maple wood.

We decided to donate these two pieces to them in hopes of raising some money for RMEF.

One of my customers was looking for something very personalized for their fireplace. We worked together and after several iterations, we came up with the mantle with a ranch scene which fit right into their interests. It was a fun project and the customer is thrilled.

This project started as an idea for a coffee table that was functional as well as totally unique. We decided to make this table out of western red cedar and douglas fir. The first part of the project was to design the scene that I thought would be interesting yet not cluttered. I used Vectric Ltd’s Aspire program to do the design work. After several iterations the design was finalized.

Then we glued up and surfaced the 8/4 WRC to get it ready for the CNC. I’ve found that my wide belt sander is now one of the most used tools in my shop as I prep material for the CNC. Material has to be flat and of consistent thickness to work right.

The next step was to put the big slab of WRC on the table and figure out a way to clamp it down while the carving took place. The carving took about 23 hours on the CNC then another 8 hours by hand to perform undercuts of the CNC work to show a more 3D effect for the animals in the carving. While the machine carving was taking place I cut and milled the material for the aprons and the table legs. One of the beauties of the CNC is that it can be working on one part of the project while I’m working on another part. It’s like having an employee that doesn’t mind working overtime and never asks for a lunch break or time off. :-)

Once all the machine and hand carving and sanding was complete I went to work on the staining process. This took about 2 days with most of that time “watching paint dry”. When the staining was done I added 3 coats of ML Campbell satin conversion varnish and then assembled the table. There is a piece of glass to cover the top but it had to be removed for photographic purposes (to much glare).

This was a fun, challenging and rewarding project to do. I have not sold it so I can show it to lots of people and I get LOTS of WOW’s when they see it.