I dug out some Black Ash boards, & ripped , & planed 4 legs to thickness. Then I dug out some Black Walnut for the table top & aprons, & set it aside until tomorrow.
I'll take some tomorrow. When I went out to my shop today, I wasn't planning on doing anything, just look for boards.
Look at the clocks I made. The Granddaughters Curio Clock, & the Black Ash & Walnut Clock.
Black Ash grows on wetlands in northern MN. The wood isn't black, so I don't know why they call it that.
It's the last tree to get its leaves in the spring, & the first to lose them.
You can see how the 2 woods go together on this clock.
Today I cut the legs to length, & Cut the mortises for the aprons.
I was setup my mortising attachment to my drill press. My Grizzley crossfeed vise was bolted to the table. I thought, why not use this when cutting the mortises. So I tried it out, & worked great. Once I got it all sqaured up, I drilled out all the mortises in no time at all. I tried making a short video.
They came out a lot cleaner than mine. I made a mortiser out of my router, it worked ok but it just was'nt as clean looking as my old mortising attachment. I got my table cut and planed down to 3/4'' from an inch. hated doing that. What wood are you using, looks like walnut? Looks good though, you said you got your aprons done? Or just the templates. I could'nt work today, just did too much the last two days. Had to lay low and rest my back and rearend. jockmike
My Walnut board was 6 3/4" wide, but it was dished a little, so I ripped it in half, & joined it in 4 sections for the top, I also glued some Ash to the edges.
The Top clamped up.
Now I have to go out, & start with the breadboard ends for the Tabletop.
This is one of the Shelves, using my new Irwin Clamps
The last couple of days, I've been working on the tabletop. I mortised out the breadboards, & cut the tenons.
I kind of fell for the cloud lift theme, so I incorporated into the top. You might want to call this a sideways cloud lift.
I decided to try something from the latest issue of Fine Woodworking, They call it draw bored pegging on the breadboards. This is something I've never tried before, so we'll see what happens.
Check out my latest Video, hope you don't get bored with it.
I was going to draw bore peg the breadboard to the top today, but I had to do some fixing instead.
I made the tenons the same length as the plan showed, they should have been longer, so there wasn't enough material. I was afraid of the peg holes breaking out.
You should have about 3/8", & I only had 1/4".
To remedy this I epoxied some nails across the ends similar to the torsion bar on a guitar neck .
After I was all done I thought I could have glued in a wooden spline instead.
I guess working arond iron for many years, I couldn't get it out of my system. LOL
Also, I wonder if you are not setting up the same potential problem here that Mark did with his breadboard ends.
Draw-bore pegs are designed to create a very tight joint by driving a peg through offset holes. However, the purpose of a breadboard end is to hide the end grain whilst accommodating the lateral expansion/contraction of the top. Consequently, the attachment of a breadboard end to the top is such that it is firm fixed at a center point (usually glued and pegged) with floating fixes on their side of center (usually elongated slots of some kind with no glue). So my question is, do you think that draw-bore joinery will accommodate wood movement?
Today I tried making pegs for the false shallow holes. I had alot of trouble doing it the way the plan instructed.
I would get chip out when carving the facets on the plugs. I'm using Walnut, maybe Ebony wouldn't do this because it's more dense.
So I setup my disk sander miter to 30 degrees, & sanded my 3/8" stock to a point. Then I cut to the hole depth, & tapped them in with hammer with a dab of glue. Here's a short video of how I used my disk sander to make the facets on the pegs.
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