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Greene inspired Night Stand #21: Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top

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Blog entry by ChicoWoodnut posted 2060 days ago 3597 reads 4 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 20: Setting Ebony Plugs Part 21 of Greene inspired Night Stand series Part 22: Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers »

Well this project is taking WAY longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.

I finished installing all 90 some odd plugs and installed some Brusso ball catches to the tops of the doors. This was making me nervous as I have not used them before. I bought brad point bits from LV so I could drill them accurately. That took two weeks of waiting. They turned out nicely though and I really like the way they click into place.

I made a decorative detail for the step downs on the back and sides. It carries the eye down to the panel. This was done by running a 1/8” roundover on the edge of a 1/2” board and then ripping the part off with a band saw. The back was then cleaned up with a hand plane to remove the saw marks and the part was trimmed carefuly with a chisel to fit the panel.

Here is one of the sides with the parts installed. I also applied them to the back.

Next I started making the top.

Here is a blowup of the top.

I jointed and glued up some 3/4” boards for the core. Then I milled some 2 1/2” wide stock for the breadboard ends. The breadboard ends step down 1/8” proud of the core on the ends and stand a little less than that thicker than the core. I used a 3/8” slot cutting bit to make a slot in the end of the core and in the breadboard end. All of the edges of the core and breadboard ends are rounded over with a 1/8” roundover bit except at the bottom where the core meets the breadboard. I also milled loose tenons for the slots. The grain on the tenons goes the same direction as the core for expansion.

I trimmed the tenons with my #4 for a nice slip fit.

And glued them into the core slot.

Here it is dry fit.

I used the hollow chisel mortiser and a 3/8” bit to cut the slots in the breadboard end for the plugs and screws.

And pre-drilled the holes for the screws with a 1/8” brad point bit.

Then I cauled and glued it all up. I only put glue on about 3” of the center so the core can expand.

I used the same slot cutting bit setup to cut the slot for the ebony spline. Since the breadboard ends are thicker than the core, the router needs to be registered on the bottom of the assembly.

Next I used a piece of MDF with the same stepdown as the top to make a cutout so I could get the shape for the ebony splines. I made a test piece from scrap.

Here it is in the slot.

I milled up some ebony for the splines and started shaping them. That’s all I could get done. I hope to complete the tops next weekend. After that there is only.

  1. Fastening the tops
  2. Making the handles for the doors and drawers
  3. Finishing

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net



17 comments so far

View Napaman's profile

Napaman

5315 posts in 2673 days


#1 posted 2060 days ago

your not done yet??? Just kidding…looking good…

-- Matt--Proud LJ since 2007

View Emeralds's profile

Emeralds

143 posts in 2159 days


#2 posted 2060 days ago

G&G style pieces are always challenging, fun and rewarding when they’re done. The details are everything and you seem to have them well covered. Beautiful work, can’t wait to see the finished piece. Thanks for sharing.

-- JMP

View stanley2's profile

stanley2

305 posts in 2391 days


#3 posted 2060 days ago

Scott – good report. I’m doing the same drill but didn’t take photos – glad you did. I’m a little nervous about trimming the splines in place thanks to Darrell’s comment in his book about the end grain being exposed when trimming with the router.

-- Phil in British Columbia

View ChicoWoodnut's profile

ChicoWoodnut

904 posts in 2411 days


#4 posted 2060 days ago

Matt – I can’t pay attention to shop work when those SN guys keep coming up with a new seasonal all the time.

JMP – Thanks for the encouragement. I can see the finish line.

Phil – I concur. What I didn’t say is that I stopped working in the shop today because I actually tried to template rout a spline using the test piece as the pattern. That was a big mistake! I use high quality Whiteside bits and it started chattering immediately. Then the ebony split and a piece went flying across the room. I never did find it. It pissed me off so much I decided to stop for the day ;) Now I’ll be thinking about what to try next. After that I am really nervous about routing those things in place too. No mistakes allowed after the glue sets up (although I suppose you could cut them out again with the slot cutter).

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

View Joe Lyddon's profile (online now)

Joe Lyddon

7617 posts in 2648 days


#5 posted 2060 days ago

Scott, I sure like the way you work!

No RUSH, no pain!

It’s worth every bit of delay in order to think things out now & then. You do it SO WELL!

Thank you for your update!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View abie's profile

abie

587 posts in 2367 days


#6 posted 2060 days ago

Scott :
Nice work.. time and patience is a virtue and not to be squandered. I have still some ebony plugs to place in my desk and Gamble entry table..
Bruce.. ex from Chico

-- Bruce. a mind is like a book it is only useful when open.

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1763 posts in 2686 days


#7 posted 2060 days ago

Looking good. Are you following techniques from the Peart book?

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Grant Davis's profile

Grant Davis

615 posts in 2504 days


#8 posted 2060 days ago

Scott, that is a very nice looking piece.

-- Grant...."GO BUCKEYES"

View Patrick Jaromin's profile

Patrick Jaromin

348 posts in 2428 days


#9 posted 2060 days ago

Looking good…thanks for the detail pics.

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL http://www.TenonAndSpline.com/blog

View bfd's profile

bfd

502 posts in 2403 days


#10 posted 2059 days ago

Scott,

Was just wondering the other day how you were coming on these. Looks likes patience is paying off. These night stands are just incredible. Your attention to detail is first rate and your craftmanship is effident everywhere you look in the details. Keep it up and cannot wait to see these when they are finished.

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3146 posts in 2419 days


#11 posted 2059 days ago

Scott thanks for the post and the inspiration to take on a Greene & Greene project in the near future. I also found in my studies of these piece a very orginal finish if your interested email me and I send it on….thank again Blkcherry

View danr's profile

danr

150 posts in 1781 days


#12 posted 1781 days ago

Scott,

I just found your project and it is exactly what I have been looking for regarding the making of the top. I really appreciate it. I have one question on how you constructed the top. How did you attatch the ebony splines that go on the edge between the core and the the bread-board ends? I have never worked with ebony before.

Thanks,
Dan

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2173 days


#13 posted 1781 days ago

Nice work enjoyed your blog.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Casper's profile

Casper

45 posts in 1826 days


#14 posted 1769 days ago

Scott,

Just fantastic… Question for you regarding your breadboard ends. How did you address wood movement with respect to your screw holes? Did you elongate them? And of course, do you have pics? I wanted to use breadboard ends in my next project and like your approach, I was just curious about the screw holes.

Thank you,
Dennis

View ChicoWoodnut's profile

ChicoWoodnut

904 posts in 2411 days


#15 posted 1768 days ago

Thanks Casper,

The holes are not elongated but they are oversized on the breadboard end. The screws have washers so they won’t pull through the oversized holes. Of course the spline has a gap where the screws pass through. I glued about three inches in the center and left the ends to float. That way the end will stay centered. These three items allow the field to move without issues while keeping the end centered.

BTW, I have made breadboard ends a couple of different ways. This is the first time I have used screws. the last time I pinned them through with dowels. That keeps the connector hidden if you arent using splines (as in a greene and greene detail).

HTH

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

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