Replacing Fence on R4511 Table Saw #2

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Blog entry by Cato posted 09-21-2010 12:48 AM 3159 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Pretty much finished up on the fence install today. Overall this install has taken very little time, and mainly had to wait for a new measuring strip to finish it up.

The replacement measuring strip came today and just took a few minutes to line up and install on the tube. I really like the new tape as it is bright white, metallic, and easy to read. It is a Starrett tape.

I will keep the OEM fence, because I keep stuff forever thinking I will need it, but also should I decide to drill some more holes in the front rail it would serve as my template. Really though with just the two holes on the front and rear rail it is snugged tight and feels like a very solid mount as it is.

I will use the fence as it is for awhile and see if the way I have it mounted suffices for me. It rides a little high above the table at about 3/16, but the faces look like they can be adjusted lower, and though I seldom cut really thin material I can clamp a face to the fence if need be for a thin cut.

This fence is a substantial upgrade for this saw and was not very expensive for the benefit of easy adjustment,
rock solid construction, and after installing the tape today it measures on the money from the blade all the way to 30 inches.

3 comments so far

View jcwalleye's profile


306 posts in 3101 days

#1 posted 09-21-2010 05:25 AM

Cool. I’ve got the parts ready to do the same thing to my 4511. I hope it turns out as good as yours. Thanks for sharing.

-- Trees, a wonderful gift --Joe--

View lanwater's profile


3111 posts in 2962 days

#2 posted 09-21-2010 07:30 AM

Good move on the fence.

Any plan to put that space on right to use?
It looks like you can put an aditional 25” of table top surface there (between the fence rails).

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View Cato's profile


701 posts in 3340 days

#3 posted 09-21-2010 12:59 PM

Lanwater- there is a bit of extra space if I want to add a table extension, just not sure at this point that I need it for anything.

Joe- this install I think will work for me without drilling new holes to lower the front tube, but I am not a miter gauge or cross cut sled user.

The other two options are to use the old rails and re drill 5 holes for the new tube and shim the tube up to height you want, or clamp the old and new front rail together and use it as a template for drilling 4 new holes, which is the method most use.

I figured I would try this install for a bit and see if I am satisfied with it. If not I have the 7/16 and 5/8 counterbore bits to drill new holes in the rails.

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