I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.
A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.
Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final “morphing”, if it needed to.
Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.
First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.
These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.
I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.
Use winding sticks to check for twist.
The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn’t bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4’ long, and can connect together to create a 8’ straight edge. A very useful tool.)
I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.
I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.
When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.
So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.
After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.
I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.
By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4”.
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