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255K views 206 replies 63 participants last post by  CartersWhittling 
#1 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
 

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#2 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
Very nice design
 

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#3 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
Very interesting design. I'm curious, what functions can you perform on this bench that you cannot on a Roubo with the tail vice, leg vice and the sliding deadman?
 

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#4 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
Traditional Roubo benches don't have tailvises, and I'm not too fond of newer mechanical tailvises. Although I could make a bench more like the Shaker bench with a tailvise and legvise. Without a Moxon's twin screw or an apron with holdfast holes you can be limited to extra clamping methods to do work on the end grain of large boards, so the shoulder vise provides a way to hold wide boards, aswell as pieces that taper. Although another sliding legvise could be used in such a case. I suppose with these 3 vises most clamping situations should be possible. And like Mr. Edwards style of work his shop revolves around his bench so each vise serves the tasks it is most excellent at.
 

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#5 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
So, did you build this yet? I just hit the ground back in the states and I need to build a new workbench as well.

Jessie
 

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#6 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
I am in the process. If you go to my next blog entries you can see the build in progress. I currently have 14 entries and am now working on the base.
 

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#7 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
May I ask 2 questions? How big is the gap that the shoulder vise travels? and how do attach the wood plate to the screw (on the shoulder vise) so that the plate swivels/articulates?

It's a pleasure to watch your videos and read your blog.
 

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#8 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
The should vise travel is around 7 inches, but the chop is about 2 inches thick. So the vice can clamp a piece around 5 inches thick. To attach the screw to the chop I have a hole cut about 3/4" into the chop with a kind of "external garter" that captures a knob turned into the end of the screw. I am going to make a video soon going over my entire bench, and I will make sure to show exactly how it works.
 

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#9 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
Hi there, I know you have more entries, and I have not checked those,yet. Here, I am planning on the design of my new workbench and because I am no really familiar I am trying to understand all about screws and vises. I like the concept of the wagon vise I've found some pictures on the internet, anyway, assuming you know about vises and workbenches my question is how different a wagon vise would be compared to the tail vise?. Is a good idea using a wooden screw for a wagon vise.
 

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#10 ·
Design Plans

Hello. These are the plans I have for a new workbench. I think I have decided that now is the time to build a bench I won't need to remake. I have done lots of studing on workbench designs and could not decide between the German bench and the Roubo because of the leg vise. I had some thoughts in mind to making a double sided bench and incorporating both bench designs. I soon came across the Edwards bench. http://woodtreks.com/design-build-traditional-woodworking-workbench-tail-shoulder-leg-vises/1651/ My design is not a reproduction of his bench, only based off the same concept of a double sided German/Roubo bench.

I am going to use hard maple for the entire bench and 2" wooden screws with internal garters on the legvise and tailvise. I will use splines and 4 bolts through the end caps to hold the bench top together. My bench has a 3/4" gap between the two bench sides, instead of a tool tray which I think will collect wood shavings quickly and add too much width to the bench. This gap will allow the top boards to move and provide similar abilities as the bench Bob Rozaieski built http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-the-workbench.html The base will be built with pegged and through mortise and tenons and attached to the top with bullet dowels. The top is designed at 72" long (without the tailvise length) 42" wide at the should vise and about 30" wide across the bench top. I'm a short guy and I do a lot of hand planing so the bench will be about 31" high. When I get material for the bench I am willing to change some bench dimensions to use the most of the the lumber I have.

In the drawings I made the top, base, and moveable parts 3 seperate colours for easier viewing. The bench has a should vise, tail vise, crochet, leg vise, sliding deadman and the removeable spacer between the bench top. The drawing does not include some of the joinery or fasteners like the bolts and rods, aswell as holes for hold fasts in the roubo side of the bench and dog holes along the tail vise.

If anyone sees anything that may be a design flaw or something that should be changed please let me know.

Table Rectangle Wood Wheel Art


Wheel Furniture Table Outdoor furniture Outdoor table


Table Wheel Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood


Rectangle Wood Material property Table Tints and shades


Rectangle Outdoor table Wood Table Outdoor furniture


Table Wheel Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle
I can buy somewhere in your plans for this workbench? tnx Pavel
 

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#11 ·
Materials Obtained

Good day. I now have the wood for my new workbench. My friend (who is also building a workbench) and I, drove to Exotic Woods in Burlingtion Ontario a few weekends ago to get the wood for our benches. I have regular hard maple at 8/4 and 12/4 thicknesses.

Building Window Wood Flooring Floor


Window Wood Building Shade Interior design


The piece of walnut in the picture I got from a friend and I will be using it for my sliding dead man. I also want to try and aquire some walnut for the leg vise chop and the shoulder vise pad, for added visual interest.

I also got some glue while at exotics.

Liquid Fluid Automotive tire Household supply Drink

We got Titebond I for most of the glueing and Titebond III if we need the longer opening time.

After going over the timber I made some modifications to the bench dimension to use as much of the wood as possible, such as the legs will be 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" instead of 4" x4" and my end caps may be 4 1/4" x 3 1/2" instead of 4" x 3 1/4". I have already roughly cross cut all the parts and ripped the leg pieces. Many parts have been thickness planned and the end cap lamenations have been glued. When it comes time for the joinery, the tailvise components and making the 2 1/2" diameter wooden screws I will get a lot more pictures.
 

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#12 ·
Materials Obtained

Good day. I now have the wood for my new workbench. My friend (who is also building a workbench) and I, drove to Exotic Woods in Burlingtion Ontario a few weekends ago to get the wood for our benches. I have regular hard maple at 8/4 and 12/4 thicknesses.

Building Window Wood Flooring Floor


Window Wood Building Shade Interior design


The piece of walnut in the picture I got from a friend and I will be using it for my sliding dead man. I also want to try and aquire some walnut for the leg vise chop and the shoulder vise pad, for added visual interest.

I also got some glue while at exotics.

Liquid Fluid Automotive tire Household supply Drink

We got Titebond I for most of the glueing and Titebond III if we need the longer opening time.

After going over the timber I made some modifications to the bench dimension to use as much of the wood as possible, such as the legs will be 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" instead of 4" x4" and my end caps may be 4 1/4" x 3 1/2" instead of 4" x 3 1/4". I have already roughly cross cut all the parts and ripped the leg pieces. Many parts have been thickness planned and the end cap lamenations have been glued. When it comes time for the joinery, the tailvise components and making the 2 1/2" diameter wooden screws I will get a lot more pictures.
I can hardly wait. I'm assembling my wood as well. The walnut should add great contrast. I'm shooting for hard maple myself. Did you say 2.5" diameter wood screws?! Wow, that's monstrous. I'm pumped.
 

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#17 ·
Milling Mostly Done

Hello. This is another update on my bench build. I have had almost two months off working on it because my friend has been in my shop working on his bench. But just over a week ago we took his almost done bench to his house for him to do the final fitting of parts and such. After doing a little organizing and sharpening I got back to work on my bench. So right now I have the legs and parts for the top all milled to thickness and width.

Wood Tool Table Hardwood Lumber

This is the slab for the roubo half of my bench. Its 2 11/16" thick and 10 1/4" wide and 62" long. The total length of my bench will be about 70", plus the extension of the tail vise.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Gas Lumber

This is a pile of the leg parts and top parts.

I still need to go get some more lumber for the stretchers, leg vise, and other small parts for the tail vise.

Wood Trunk Gas Tree Concrete

This piece of 8/4 walnut will make a nice sliding deadman.

I did most of the jointing of the parts with hand planes until I got a cheap 6" jointer (although the blades were dull so I didn't end up using it much). I used a neat little trick I found by Matthias Wandle, as seen here http://www.youtube.com/user/Matthiaswandel#p/u/40/XdDo3OEtjhc , to elimenate planer snipe, which is almost impossible any other way.

Office equipment Gas Technology Machine Machine tool

When the planer is lowered to the final thickness you want, the edges of the planer will rest on the wooden blocks which were planed to a predetermined thickness. To get the thickness, lower your planer to the final thickness you want the wood your planing to be, and then measure the distance from the planer table to the edge of the moveable planer. See Matthias' video for a better description of how it works.

Next week I will probably get the lumber I still need and start working on the bench top.
 

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#18 ·
Milling Mostly Done

Hello. This is another update on my bench build. I have had almost two months off working on it because my friend has been in my shop working on his bench. But just over a week ago we took his almost done bench to his house for him to do the final fitting of parts and such. After doing a little organizing and sharpening I got back to work on my bench. So right now I have the legs and parts for the top all milled to thickness and width.

Wood Tool Table Hardwood Lumber

This is the slab for the roubo half of my bench. Its 2 11/16" thick and 10 1/4" wide and 62" long. The total length of my bench will be about 70", plus the extension of the tail vise.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Gas Lumber

This is a pile of the leg parts and top parts.

I still need to go get some more lumber for the stretchers, leg vise, and other small parts for the tail vise.

Wood Trunk Gas Tree Concrete

This piece of 8/4 walnut will make a nice sliding deadman.

I did most of the jointing of the parts with hand planes until I got a cheap 6" jointer (although the blades were dull so I didn't end up using it much). I used a neat little trick I found by Matthias Wandle, as seen here http://www.youtube.com/user/Matthiaswandel#p/u/40/XdDo3OEtjhc , to elimenate planer snipe, which is almost impossible any other way.

Office equipment Gas Technology Machine Machine tool

When the planer is lowered to the final thickness you want, the edges of the planer will rest on the wooden blocks which were planed to a predetermined thickness. To get the thickness, lower your planer to the final thickness you want the wood your planing to be, and then measure the distance from the planer table to the edge of the moveable planer. See Matthias' video for a better description of how it works.

Next week I will probably get the lumber I still need and start working on the bench top.
Looks like good progress. thats one mighty slab there!
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Top Glue Up and Dog Holes

Hello. I have just finished joining and glueing up the two doghole strips and the top slab.

First I milled the 8 3/8" wide slab top to length by crosscutting it roughly and using a router with a straight bit and straight edge to square it up nicely. With the two doghole strips I crosscut them on the table saw. I was impressed to find the saw made an almost perfect finish on the endgrain. I then marked where the threaded rod will go and marked out the position of the dog holes which are on 4" centers. I then drilled slightly oversized holes through each piece for the rod.

I joined the first strip to the 8 3/8" wide slab with a plywood spline, mostly to help with alignment during glue up.

Wood Asphalt Automotive exterior Composite material Gas


Wood Rectangle Composite material Automotive exterior Wood stain


I made the groove slightly under 3/4" so that I needed to plane the splines to fit nicely. I then used a plywood template to route the dogholes in. They are 7/8" deep and 1 3/8" wide. I also routed two splines to join the two doghole strips to each other, also to help with alignment.

Wood Flooring Floor Road surface Asphalt

Note the further distances between the first and last doghole, this is to avoid the legs beneath the top. It also turned out to provide more space with the splines.

I lastly looked everything over and proceeded with the glue up. I glued the first strip to the top and let it dry for maybe 45 minutes and then glued the final strip on trying not to get too much glue squeeze-out in the dog holes.

Wood Floor Flooring Gas Composite material


Wood Composite material Gas Flooring Metal


Cabinetry Wood Rectangle Drawer Table


Wood Wall Composite material Gas Urban design
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Top Glue Up and Dog Holes

Hello. I have just finished joining and glueing up the two doghole strips and the top slab.

First I milled the 8 3/8" wide slab top to length by crosscutting it roughly and using a router with a straight bit and straight edge to square it up nicely. With the two doghole strips I crosscut them on the table saw. I was impressed to find the saw made an almost perfect finish on the endgrain. I then marked where the threaded rod will go and marked out the position of the dog holes which are on 4" centers. I then drilled slightly oversized holes through each piece for the rod.

I joined the first strip to the 8 3/8" wide slab with a plywood spline, mostly to help with alignment during glue up.

Wood Asphalt Automotive exterior Composite material Gas


Wood Rectangle Composite material Automotive exterior Wood stain


I made the groove slightly under 3/4" so that I needed to plane the splines to fit nicely. I then used a plywood template to route the dogholes in. They are 7/8" deep and 1 3/8" wide. I also routed two splines to join the two doghole strips to each other, also to help with alignment.

Wood Flooring Floor Road surface Asphalt

Note the further distances between the first and last doghole, this is to avoid the legs beneath the top. It also turned out to provide more space with the splines.

I lastly looked everything over and proceeded with the glue up. I glued the first strip to the top and let it dry for maybe 45 minutes and then glued the final strip on trying not to get too much glue squeeze-out in the dog holes.

Wood Floor Flooring Gas Composite material


Wood Composite material Gas Flooring Metal


Cabinetry Wood Rectangle Drawer Table


Wood Wall Composite material Gas Urban design
You are really starting to hit your stride.

Nice bandsaw.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Holdfast Holes and Spacer Block

Hello. This morning I took the clamps off the glue up assembly and scraped the glue squeeze-out off. The joint turned out nice and the top surfaces are all within a 1/32" of being flush. I then chamfered the dog holes and laid out were I wanted the holdfast holes to be.

Wood Table Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Triangle Hardwood Tints and shades


Wood Rectangle Plank Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Ruler Office ruler Flooring Rectangle


I placed all but the first and last holes, flush to the front of the dogholes, so I can place a batten across a bench dog and holdfast. They are also positioned so the holdfasts reach the edge of the bench and cross over a couple inches onto the other side of the bench.

I then glued up the spacer block for the shoulder vise. I didn't have a block of maple at least 2 1/2" thick so I laminated two pieces, and got a block 2 3/4" thick.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I then clamped the spacer block to the assembly and transfered the line for the threaded rod and drilled it out with a 1/2" diameter hole instead of a 3/8" which is the rods diameter. Because the direction of the grain in the spacer block will expand sideways, the larger hole will accomodate the wood movement.

Wood Table Tool Drill Metalworking hand tool

This is how I drilled the holes in the other pieces as well. I drilled through both sides of the piece with my best brad points and if the holes did not connect I used one of my longer, cheaper, bits to connect them.

Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain Flooring

In this picture you can see the threaded rod going through part of the bench top. This is one reason why the bench has a gap between the top, to allow space for the nut on the rod, and to give the bench tops a place to expand into. You can see my first blog entry on the bench design to see the gap I am talking about here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/23792

Next I will be routing the grooves for the spacer blocks spline and dovetailing the shoulder vise endcaps.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Dovetailing Endcaps

Hello. Today I've been working on endcaps for the shoulder vise. I started by routing the grooves in the spacer block and in the doghole strip for the spacer block.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Hardwood


Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


I then squared up the end of each end cap for the shoulder vise and laid out and cut the tail on the long end cap with the bandsaw. I then transfered the tail and cut the pins with a jig on the bandsaw.

Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


And after a little fitting…

Wood Rectangle Floor Wall Flooring


I then put the rod through the top and clamped the spacer block on to layout the location for the splines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Composite material

I used red marker to better identify the end of each cut.

Next I put the top on end to route out the splines. They are 3/4" wide by 1" deep. I use a 1/2" straight bit and make the groove slightly undersize, and plane the plywood spline to proper thickness to get a good fit. I also routed the grooves in the end cap at the same time so the router fence had the same settings.

Wood Interior design Floor Hardwood Flooring


Wood Floor Gas Flooring Hardwood


Wood Interior design Building Floor Flooring


Wood Machine Flooring Hardwood Composite material


Tomorrow I should be able to get the shoulder vise done, minus tapping the endcap for the vise nut.
 

Attachments

#24 ·
Dovetailing Endcaps

Hello. Today I've been working on endcaps for the shoulder vise. I started by routing the grooves in the spacer block and in the doghole strip for the spacer block.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Hardwood


Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


I then squared up the end of each end cap for the shoulder vise and laid out and cut the tail on the long end cap with the bandsaw. I then transfered the tail and cut the pins with a jig on the bandsaw.

Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


And after a little fitting…

Wood Rectangle Floor Wall Flooring


I then put the rod through the top and clamped the spacer block on to layout the location for the splines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Composite material

I used red marker to better identify the end of each cut.

Next I put the top on end to route out the splines. They are 3/4" wide by 1" deep. I use a 1/2" straight bit and make the groove slightly undersize, and plane the plywood spline to proper thickness to get a good fit. I also routed the grooves in the end cap at the same time so the router fence had the same settings.

Wood Interior design Floor Hardwood Flooring


Wood Floor Gas Flooring Hardwood


Wood Interior design Building Floor Flooring


Wood Machine Flooring Hardwood Composite material


Tomorrow I should be able to get the shoulder vise done, minus tapping the endcap for the vise nut.
That is a mighty fine looking bench - nice job on the dovetails - looking good. You are getting a pretty good workout moving that slab around the garage!

Looking forward to seeing the completed bench.

Jeff
 

Attachments

#27 ·
Top Almost Done

Hello. I am now almost done the bench top. The tailvise still needs to be made and I need to glue the shoulder vise together, but the majority of work is done. Since my last post I finished the splines for the shoulder vise and tapped the nut for the vise, and cut the detail out.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Table Rectangle

This is a 2 1/2" diamter nut with 2 tpi. I am making a video of the process of tapping the nut.

I also finished the splines for the end caps and drilling the holes for the bolts.

Wood Table Floor Hardwood Workbench

The bolts and splines are centered on the ends of each top.

Table Wood Tool Workbench Floor


Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor Hardwood

I just realized the gap might be handy as a type of tool tray.

Next I will glue up and finish the shoulder vise and screw, tap the nut for the tailvise, trim the endcaps, and start work on the tailvise. If anyone has any questions or would like pictures or a video of anything, just leave a comment.
 

Attachments

#28 ·
Top Almost Done

Hello. I am now almost done the bench top. The tailvise still needs to be made and I need to glue the shoulder vise together, but the majority of work is done. Since my last post I finished the splines for the shoulder vise and tapped the nut for the vise, and cut the detail out.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Table Rectangle

This is a 2 1/2" diamter nut with 2 tpi. I am making a video of the process of tapping the nut.

I also finished the splines for the end caps and drilling the holes for the bolts.

Wood Table Floor Hardwood Workbench

The bolts and splines are centered on the ends of each top.

Table Wood Tool Workbench Floor


Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor Hardwood

I just realized the gap might be handy as a type of tool tray.

Next I will glue up and finish the shoulder vise and screw, tap the nut for the tailvise, trim the endcaps, and start work on the tailvise. If anyone has any questions or would like pictures or a video of anything, just leave a comment.
I just finished glueing up the shoulder vise.

Wood Workbench Machine tool Tool Composite material


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Flooring Plank Hardwood
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Progress Video 1

Hello. This is a video I made to show the details and construction of my bench so far. I go over the shoulder vise construction and joinery. I hope it may be useful to those who may be contemplating bench designs. I will make a few more videos as I progress, and I will have a video or two on making wooden screws and nuts aswell.

 
#32 ·
Nice details on your workbench build. It looks like you have done a wonderful job so far. Thank you for sharing it with us.

It would be nice to see a video on your wooden screw maker. Do you have any more details about it?
 
#38 ·
Making Wooden Screws

Hello. This is a video showing the process I go through to make wooden screws. I briefly try to explain how it is set up and show the jig making the screw. I will soon have a video on making wooden nuts aswell. I will eventually make a video showing how to make the tap and screw making jig and explain how to create the size of screw you want. I'm sure there are many other ways to make nuts and screws but this is how I do it and it works fairly well, the main downside being that I can get burn marks in the screw from the router bit from when I stop turning the screw. If anyone else has any jigs for making screws or nuts I would like to see them. My set up could still use optimizing.

 
#98 ·
Making Wooden Nuts

Hello. In this video I show you how I make wooden nuts for my bench with a tap my friend Chris Legendre and I built. I explain some of the details about the tap and show you how its used and set up. Again like I mentioned in my last blog entry, I will be making a video later showing you how to acually make the tap.

 
#126 ·
Tail Vise Has Begun

Hello. Since my 7th workbench post I got the shoulder vise done and started work on the tailvise.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood

This is a picture of the vise from underneath. I have the bench top upside down while I am working on the tailvise.

I first tapped the nut in the endcap for the vise. If you look at blog post #10 you can see me making the nut for the tail vise at the end of the video.

Wood Wooden block Wood stain Hardwood Audio equipment


Furniture Saw Table Wood Plant

You can see the 1 inch deep notch cut above the nut which allows for the covering of the tailvise to slide over.

After I made the nut I used a handsaw to crosscut the chuncks off where one of the guide blocks will go.

Wood Flooring Floor Table Wood stain

I had the rip cuts already made before glue up, so that after assembly all I needed to do was crosscut the blocks off. I used a shoulder plane to get the surface flush and parallel to the end cap.

Wood Hardwood Workbench Wood stain Lumber

If have one of the guide blocks here with my winding stick on it and one on the end cap to make sure they are parallel. This will be crucial in making sure the vise runs smoothly.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Window


I then cut the parts for the vise to size and laid out the dovetails on the side piece of the vise, cut them out on the bandsaw and laid out and cut the pins. When you are milling the parts for your vise make sure the side piece for the vise is the same width as the front lamenation for your bench to make sure the dogholes are all inline. Also make sure the thickness of the vise parts are the same thickness as the end caps for your bench. Otherwise you will need to modify the position of the guide blocks. The Sketch Up plans for the Frank Klausz Replica Workbench have 4" thick endcaps, but mine are 4 1/4" inch so the 3 parts for the vise are also 4 1/4" thick.

Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Tool


Table Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain

The joints didn't turn out as perfect as I would have liked. So I will need to put some thin shims in when I glue the joints together. But the strength of the joint is incredible none the less.

I then cut out the space on top of the front piece with the bandsaw.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Rectangle


I then used my block plane and shoulder plane to true up the surface. I would continually check my progress by putting the piece in place on the bench and checking with my winding sticks to make sure it was parallel to the end cap, just like the place for the guide block.

Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


To get the proper amount cut off the vise part depends on the thickness of the bench top and the thickness of the covering on your vise. The plans call for a cover 1" thick and the bench top thickness is 1 3/4" thick so the amount needed to take off was 3/4"

I then used the router and the template to cut the dogholes. Make sure to face them towards the dogholes in the bench top. I made a small mistake routing the dogholes in the vise because I had the cutout positioned too far down. In the bench top the cut out is placed 1 1/2" down from the top, which is what I did in the vise, but I forgot to take into account the 1" thick cover. So the cut out will be 2 1/2" from the top. All it means is I will need bench dogs slightly longer than in the bench. I plan on making a dog for every hole anyways.

Wood Tool Hand tool Wood stain Table


Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood

Here is the simple template I made for the dogholes.

I then made the 1/4" thick cover to go over the dogholes, and glued it down.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Tool Hardwood


I also finished the guide rod for the vise.

Wood Tool Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Wood Rectangle Table Flooring Floor


It shouldn't be too long before I have the vise working. I realized while writting this that I had some difficulting trying to describe all the parts and give them names. So I am thinking that when I have the bench done I will make a Sketch Up drawing available and do a video summerizing the bench. When I started this blog I wanted to thoroughly explain the joinery and the tailvise in particular, because I found it hard to get good pictures and especially a good source to explain the process of making the vise. I am hoping that through this blog I can give you a better look into the construction of this style bench so you can decide on your benches design. When I first looked at bench designs I wanted a tailvise in this style, but thought it would be very complicated to build, which was mostly due to the lack of info I could find on it. So hopefully this series provides someone with the info they need to understand and demystify the details behind this bench, and the vises.
 

Attachments

#127 ·
Tail Vise Has Begun

Hello. Since my 7th workbench post I got the shoulder vise done and started work on the tailvise.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood

This is a picture of the vise from underneath. I have the bench top upside down while I am working on the tailvise.

I first tapped the nut in the endcap for the vise. If you look at blog post #10 you can see me making the nut for the tail vise at the end of the video.

Wood Wooden block Wood stain Hardwood Audio equipment


Furniture Saw Table Wood Plant

You can see the 1 inch deep notch cut above the nut which allows for the covering of the tailvise to slide over.

After I made the nut I used a handsaw to crosscut the chuncks off where one of the guide blocks will go.

Wood Flooring Floor Table Wood stain

I had the rip cuts already made before glue up, so that after assembly all I needed to do was crosscut the blocks off. I used a shoulder plane to get the surface flush and parallel to the end cap.

Wood Hardwood Workbench Wood stain Lumber

If have one of the guide blocks here with my winding stick on it and one on the end cap to make sure they are parallel. This will be crucial in making sure the vise runs smoothly.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Window


I then cut the parts for the vise to size and laid out the dovetails on the side piece of the vise, cut them out on the bandsaw and laid out and cut the pins. When you are milling the parts for your vise make sure the side piece for the vise is the same width as the front lamenation for your bench to make sure the dogholes are all inline. Also make sure the thickness of the vise parts are the same thickness as the end caps for your bench. Otherwise you will need to modify the position of the guide blocks. The Sketch Up plans for the Frank Klausz Replica Workbench have 4" thick endcaps, but mine are 4 1/4" inch so the 3 parts for the vise are also 4 1/4" thick.

Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Tool


Table Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain

The joints didn't turn out as perfect as I would have liked. So I will need to put some thin shims in when I glue the joints together. But the strength of the joint is incredible none the less.

I then cut out the space on top of the front piece with the bandsaw.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Rectangle


I then used my block plane and shoulder plane to true up the surface. I would continually check my progress by putting the piece in place on the bench and checking with my winding sticks to make sure it was parallel to the end cap, just like the place for the guide block.

Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


To get the proper amount cut off the vise part depends on the thickness of the bench top and the thickness of the covering on your vise. The plans call for a cover 1" thick and the bench top thickness is 1 3/4" thick so the amount needed to take off was 3/4"

I then used the router and the template to cut the dogholes. Make sure to face them towards the dogholes in the bench top. I made a small mistake routing the dogholes in the vise because I had the cutout positioned too far down. In the bench top the cut out is placed 1 1/2" down from the top, which is what I did in the vise, but I forgot to take into account the 1" thick cover. So the cut out will be 2 1/2" from the top. All it means is I will need bench dogs slightly longer than in the bench. I plan on making a dog for every hole anyways.

Wood Tool Hand tool Wood stain Table


Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood

Here is the simple template I made for the dogholes.

I then made the 1/4" thick cover to go over the dogholes, and glued it down.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Tool Hardwood


I also finished the guide rod for the vise.

Wood Tool Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Wood Rectangle Table Flooring Floor


It shouldn't be too long before I have the vise working. I realized while writting this that I had some difficulting trying to describe all the parts and give them names. So I am thinking that when I have the bench done I will make a Sketch Up drawing available and do a video summerizing the bench. When I started this blog I wanted to thoroughly explain the joinery and the tailvise in particular, because I found it hard to get good pictures and especially a good source to explain the process of making the vise. I am hoping that through this blog I can give you a better look into the construction of this style bench so you can decide on your benches design. When I first looked at bench designs I wanted a tailvise in this style, but thought it would be very complicated to build, which was mostly due to the lack of info I could find on it. So hopefully this series provides someone with the info they need to understand and demystify the details behind this bench, and the vises.
"demystify the details behind this bench"
I'm already confused. Haha Nice job anyway. ;)
 

Attachments

#137 ·
Bench Dogs

Hello. This weekend had I finished up my tailvise and made the bench dogs for my bench. I am currently making up a video to show you the tailvise, so when that is done in the next day or two I will post the finished vise.

I made one dog for each hole in my bench.

Wood Table Wooden block Hardwood Rectangle


Aswell as a special dog that fits in the first hole in the tailvise for when I need to clamp work that would be to short otherwise.

Table Wood Hardwood Plywood Wooden block

I have a thin strip glued with the grain in the opposite direction to give the extension extra strength.

I also put some wood aside that I can use to make custom bench dogs in the future if a specific need arises (such has tall dogs with pins for clamping turnings).

I begin be tracing a template I had made, with the back edge flush to the work piece I will be making the dog out of. I then cut it out on the bandsaw so that I am splitting the pencil lines, but I leave a 1/4" or so extra on the top of the bench dog.

Wood Rectangle Table Tool Flooring


The material I am cutting the dogs out of is just slightly thicker than needed, so I use my plane to trim the dog down until it fits the hole it will go in nicely.

Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Wood Jack plane


Then if I slide the dog down and it is hitting the ledge inside the hole, I trim the back edge of the dog until it slides nicely past the ledge.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Then if the front of the dog will not fit down the hole I trim the front edge.

Wood Smoothing plane Rebate plane Block plane Tool

I will probably be putting a piece of leather on the front of each bench dog later. In that case you can skip this step by cutting the front of the dog thinner to accomodate the thickness of the leather.

Next place the dog in its specific hole and use a pencil with its bevel rested on the bench top to mark a line on the dog flush with the bench surface.

Table Wood Cookie cutter Wood stain Cutting board


Then I used the bandsaw to cut the waste off, used my block plane to lightly chamfer the top edges of the dog, placed the dog in its hole, and planed the top edge flush with the bench top.

Table Carpenter Wood Artisan Tradesman


At this point the bench dog is usable, but it will not stay up without a spring mechanism. I decided to go with a wooden spring to apply pressure, but you could also buy bullet catches which would be more simple to install. The spring allows you to push the dog up to whatever height and hold it there so you can take your hands off. I used my mortising jig on the side of my table saw (but you could use a router) to make a slot along the edge of the dog. It is about 3/8" wide and maybe 3/16" deep. The groove only needs to be deep enough to allow your spring to be pressed in the groove and not stick proud of it.

Wood Tartan Flooring Hardwood Engineering


In the picture above you can see two pencil marks, one about an 1/8" below the groove and one about 3/4" from the bottom edge in the groove. These are to indicate where I will chisel out a slope in the end of the groove.

Wood Finger Thumb Hardwood Flooring

Here you can see where I have chiseled out the slope which is where the spring will be glued.

I then had made up the spring material out of some hickory, though I am sure many other species would work fine. The springs where about a 1/16" thick and wide enough to fit in the groove. Then I put a light amount of glue on the slope in the groove and clamped the spring to the slope.

Wood Tradesman Safety glove Tartan Gas


After the glue dries the bench dog is finished. The only thing you can still do is apply some finished if you like.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring
 

Attachments

#138 ·
Bench Dogs

Hello. This weekend had I finished up my tailvise and made the bench dogs for my bench. I am currently making up a video to show you the tailvise, so when that is done in the next day or two I will post the finished vise.

I made one dog for each hole in my bench.

Wood Table Wooden block Hardwood Rectangle


Aswell as a special dog that fits in the first hole in the tailvise for when I need to clamp work that would be to short otherwise.

Table Wood Hardwood Plywood Wooden block

I have a thin strip glued with the grain in the opposite direction to give the extension extra strength.

I also put some wood aside that I can use to make custom bench dogs in the future if a specific need arises (such has tall dogs with pins for clamping turnings).

I begin be tracing a template I had made, with the back edge flush to the work piece I will be making the dog out of. I then cut it out on the bandsaw so that I am splitting the pencil lines, but I leave a 1/4" or so extra on the top of the bench dog.

Wood Rectangle Table Tool Flooring


The material I am cutting the dogs out of is just slightly thicker than needed, so I use my plane to trim the dog down until it fits the hole it will go in nicely.

Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Wood Jack plane


Then if I slide the dog down and it is hitting the ledge inside the hole, I trim the back edge of the dog until it slides nicely past the ledge.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Then if the front of the dog will not fit down the hole I trim the front edge.

Wood Smoothing plane Rebate plane Block plane Tool

I will probably be putting a piece of leather on the front of each bench dog later. In that case you can skip this step by cutting the front of the dog thinner to accomodate the thickness of the leather.

Next place the dog in its specific hole and use a pencil with its bevel rested on the bench top to mark a line on the dog flush with the bench surface.

Table Wood Cookie cutter Wood stain Cutting board


Then I used the bandsaw to cut the waste off, used my block plane to lightly chamfer the top edges of the dog, placed the dog in its hole, and planed the top edge flush with the bench top.

Table Carpenter Wood Artisan Tradesman


At this point the bench dog is usable, but it will not stay up without a spring mechanism. I decided to go with a wooden spring to apply pressure, but you could also buy bullet catches which would be more simple to install. The spring allows you to push the dog up to whatever height and hold it there so you can take your hands off. I used my mortising jig on the side of my table saw (but you could use a router) to make a slot along the edge of the dog. It is about 3/8" wide and maybe 3/16" deep. The groove only needs to be deep enough to allow your spring to be pressed in the groove and not stick proud of it.

Wood Tartan Flooring Hardwood Engineering


In the picture above you can see two pencil marks, one about an 1/8" below the groove and one about 3/4" from the bottom edge in the groove. These are to indicate where I will chisel out a slope in the end of the groove.

Wood Finger Thumb Hardwood Flooring

Here you can see where I have chiseled out the slope which is where the spring will be glued.

I then had made up the spring material out of some hickory, though I am sure many other species would work fine. The springs where about a 1/16" thick and wide enough to fit in the groove. Then I put a light amount of glue on the slope in the groove and clamped the spring to the slope.

Wood Tradesman Safety glove Tartan Gas


After the glue dries the bench dog is finished. The only thing you can still do is apply some finished if you like.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring
I like the way you produced the spring in the wood. I will be stealing that.
 

Attachments

#142 ·
Tail Vise Is Complete

Hello. I have now finished the tail vise, and today I had acually started work on the base. After I had got the dovetails for the tailvise fit and the pins on the guide rod I cut out the place for the pins to be inserted in the vise assembly. I then started work on getting the notches cut in the guide blocks for the sliding parts.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Composite material Hardwood

Here you can see the guide rod in place, with the one guide block attached to the end cap with a notch for the guide rod to slide through aswell as a small notch where the 1/4" doghole cover is.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle Plank

Here you can see the second guide block with the guide rod attached between them. There is also a notch cut in the tail vise so it can slide through the guide rod.

Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Floor

This is a view of the bench while it is the right way up. You can see the notch cut out in the top of the end cap which the vise cover will slide over.

Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain

Here the cover is on the vise but not glued down yet.

Then I took the vise apart and drilled the 2" hole out for the screw to pass through and mortised the hole for the garter.

Wood Wooden block Wood stain Hardwood Ruler

Here the hole is drilled out with the mortise for the garter. In my hand is the garter which goes into the hole and will catch a groove in the screw. The garter pulls the vise back when you reverse the screw.

Wood Wall Beam Hardwood Composite material

Here I have the detail cut out in the end of the vise. I do not know if this serves anything practically, maybe reduce weight, but it looks nice anyways.

Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood

Here I've got the 2" diameter 2tpi screw for the tailvise. This was only going to by a practice screw because I can only fit a 14" length on my lathe, and the threads could be an extra 2" longer and the hub an inch or two longer aswell. The groove in the screw is for the garter to engage.

Next I glued the tail vise together and planed the joints flush. I also attached a 3/4" x 3/4" piece to the bottom of the doghole cover. This acts as extra support and guidance while the vise moves.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Rectangle

Here the 3/4" x 3/4" piece is attached and the vise all glued together. After you put this piece on you need to go back and lengthing the notch in the end of the guide block for it to slide through.

Then I glued the cover onto the tailvise. Before its glued on clamp it in place and make sure as you move the vise in and out the cover is not binding and everything slides nicely.

Furniture Table Wood Hardwood Desk


Then I took the vise off and began work on chiseling out the holes through the cover for the dogholes. I flipped the vise upside down and put a drill bit through each doghole and drilled through the cover. I then flipped it upright and used the hole as a guide to start chiseling. I also used a square and marked 2 lines along the cover to mark the edges of the holes. Then I just chiseled until the sides of the holes were flush and beveled the top edges.

Wood Vehicle Wood stain Hardwood Automotive exterior


Then I put the whole vise assembly together and clamped the vise shut and planed the cover flush with the top and put the bench on edge and planed the side of the vise flush with the bench side.

Wood Table Plank Hardwood Wood stain

I also roughly flattened the whole bench top at this point.

Then I began work on the bench dogs which are in the previous blog post.

Here is a video where I explain how the vise works and show you how it moves.

 

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#143 ·
Tail Vise Is Complete

Hello. I have now finished the tail vise, and today I had acually started work on the base. After I had got the dovetails for the tailvise fit and the pins on the guide rod I cut out the place for the pins to be inserted in the vise assembly. I then started work on getting the notches cut in the guide blocks for the sliding parts.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Composite material Hardwood

Here you can see the guide rod in place, with the one guide block attached to the end cap with a notch for the guide rod to slide through aswell as a small notch where the 1/4" doghole cover is.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle Plank

Here you can see the second guide block with the guide rod attached between them. There is also a notch cut in the tail vise so it can slide through the guide rod.

Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Floor

This is a view of the bench while it is the right way up. You can see the notch cut out in the top of the end cap which the vise cover will slide over.

Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain

Here the cover is on the vise but not glued down yet.

Then I took the vise apart and drilled the 2" hole out for the screw to pass through and mortised the hole for the garter.

Wood Wooden block Wood stain Hardwood Ruler

Here the hole is drilled out with the mortise for the garter. In my hand is the garter which goes into the hole and will catch a groove in the screw. The garter pulls the vise back when you reverse the screw.

Wood Wall Beam Hardwood Composite material

Here I have the detail cut out in the end of the vise. I do not know if this serves anything practically, maybe reduce weight, but it looks nice anyways.

Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood

Here I've got the 2" diameter 2tpi screw for the tailvise. This was only going to by a practice screw because I can only fit a 14" length on my lathe, and the threads could be an extra 2" longer and the hub an inch or two longer aswell. The groove in the screw is for the garter to engage.

Next I glued the tail vise together and planed the joints flush. I also attached a 3/4" x 3/4" piece to the bottom of the doghole cover. This acts as extra support and guidance while the vise moves.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Rectangle

Here the 3/4" x 3/4" piece is attached and the vise all glued together. After you put this piece on you need to go back and lengthing the notch in the end of the guide block for it to slide through.

Then I glued the cover onto the tailvise. Before its glued on clamp it in place and make sure as you move the vise in and out the cover is not binding and everything slides nicely.

Furniture Table Wood Hardwood Desk


Then I took the vise off and began work on chiseling out the holes through the cover for the dogholes. I flipped the vise upside down and put a drill bit through each doghole and drilled through the cover. I then flipped it upright and used the hole as a guide to start chiseling. I also used a square and marked 2 lines along the cover to mark the edges of the holes. Then I just chiseled until the sides of the holes were flush and beveled the top edges.

Wood Vehicle Wood stain Hardwood Automotive exterior


Then I put the whole vise assembly together and clamped the vise shut and planed the cover flush with the top and put the bench on edge and planed the side of the vise flush with the bench side.

Wood Table Plank Hardwood Wood stain

I also roughly flattened the whole bench top at this point.

Then I began work on the bench dogs which are in the previous blog post.

Here is a video where I explain how the vise works and show you how it moves.

I'm not sure how I haven't seen any of this blog before, but this is some really fantastic work.
 

Attachments

#163 ·
Starting The Base

Hello. I am now working on the base for my workbench. I have changed some of the design details since my first concept, but not by much. The main difference is that the two legs on the Roubo side of the bench have tenons that will go into the bench top. The base was going to attach to the top the way most trestle bases do with bullet dowels, but then I realized that when I use the leg vise, all the pressure will be placed on the dowels! So I redesigned the front legs so that they have a tenon going into the top so that it is firmly attached and will handle the pressure from the leg vise. This is the where the task of combining a Roubo and German style bench became a little more complex. I will still have a bullet dowel above each trestle to help align the base and keep it from twisting since there are only 2 tenons along one side of the bench holding the top to the base unlike a traditional Roubo with 4 tenons, one on each leg. I am not sure yet, if I will glue and drawbore the tenons to the top. I may leave them and see how the bench holds without glue in those tenons, because it would be nice for the top to be removable for easier moving, if strength and rigidity are not compromised. The workbench I have now has a trestle style base that is attached to the top with bullet dowels and I have had no issues with rigidity so far.

Anyways, after figuring out the base design I went ahead and thickness planed all the leg parts and trestle parts to proper thickness. I had already jointed the parts previously so all I needed to do was mill them all to thickness. I do not yet have the wood for the 3 stretchers, so I will need to get it some time this week. Then I cut the parts all to length making sure to take in account the length of the tenons.

Wood Flooring Automotive exterior Rectangle Gas


Then I laid out all the tenons on the parts. Since I thicknessed the lumber to the thickest the material would allow, the parts are slightly thicker than the plans called for. So some of the lay out work required tweeking and using the lumber itself to lay out the joinery properly. Though like all wood working, its more accurate to use marking gauges and transfering lines from one part to another, rather than using a ruler. Then after I had the tenons laid out, I used the bandsaw to cut the tenons since I do not own a tenon saw yet and they were identical repeated cuts. When you have the fence on your bandsaw set properly, and a good blade, you can make cuts that do not require clean up.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Tints and shades Composite material

This is a picture of a piece of wood I used to set the fence drift, and you can see the quality of the cut is really flawless.

Table Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Wood stain

Here I have all the parts cut to length with the tenon cheeks cut on the bandsaw. I have not cut the shoulders yet.

Next I will finish up the tenons and start the mortising.
 

Attachments

#164 ·
Starting The Base

Hello. I am now working on the base for my workbench. I have changed some of the design details since my first concept, but not by much. The main difference is that the two legs on the Roubo side of the bench have tenons that will go into the bench top. The base was going to attach to the top the way most trestle bases do with bullet dowels, but then I realized that when I use the leg vise, all the pressure will be placed on the dowels! So I redesigned the front legs so that they have a tenon going into the top so that it is firmly attached and will handle the pressure from the leg vise. This is the where the task of combining a Roubo and German style bench became a little more complex. I will still have a bullet dowel above each trestle to help align the base and keep it from twisting since there are only 2 tenons along one side of the bench holding the top to the base unlike a traditional Roubo with 4 tenons, one on each leg. I am not sure yet, if I will glue and drawbore the tenons to the top. I may leave them and see how the bench holds without glue in those tenons, because it would be nice for the top to be removable for easier moving, if strength and rigidity are not compromised. The workbench I have now has a trestle style base that is attached to the top with bullet dowels and I have had no issues with rigidity so far.

Anyways, after figuring out the base design I went ahead and thickness planed all the leg parts and trestle parts to proper thickness. I had already jointed the parts previously so all I needed to do was mill them all to thickness. I do not yet have the wood for the 3 stretchers, so I will need to get it some time this week. Then I cut the parts all to length making sure to take in account the length of the tenons.

Wood Flooring Automotive exterior Rectangle Gas


Then I laid out all the tenons on the parts. Since I thicknessed the lumber to the thickest the material would allow, the parts are slightly thicker than the plans called for. So some of the lay out work required tweeking and using the lumber itself to lay out the joinery properly. Though like all wood working, its more accurate to use marking gauges and transfering lines from one part to another, rather than using a ruler. Then after I had the tenons laid out, I used the bandsaw to cut the tenons since I do not own a tenon saw yet and they were identical repeated cuts. When you have the fence on your bandsaw set properly, and a good blade, you can make cuts that do not require clean up.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Tints and shades Composite material

This is a picture of a piece of wood I used to set the fence drift, and you can see the quality of the cut is really flawless.

Table Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Wood stain

Here I have all the parts cut to length with the tenon cheeks cut on the bandsaw. I have not cut the shoulders yet.

Next I will finish up the tenons and start the mortising.
You are so close to the finish line. I cannot believe how smooth your band-saw cuts.
 

Attachments

#165 ·
Base Mortise & Tenons

Hello. I have now finished the mortise and tenons for the base and have them all fit.

Wood Creative arts Hardwood Wood stain Plywood

Here are the two base assemblies put together. The assembly closest to view still needs a thin leg installed on its right side. You can see the tenons on top of each assembly which will be going into mortises in the bench top.

Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Wood stain

Here is a view of the leg assemblies from the Roubo side of the bench, with the front legs that will be flush to the bench top side and the tenons that will be mortised into the bench top. The leg on the left is the leg which will be tapped for a 2 1/2" nut for the leg vise. When I was laminating all the leg parts I had one which was an inch wider than the rest, so I used it as the leg which will have the leg vise.

Wood Wood stain Floor Chair Rectangle

Here is a close up of the tenon and a better view to see the extra width on the leg vise leg. This leg is 5 1/2" wide instead of 4 1/2" like the rest.

Wood Flooring Wood stain Hardwood Gas

This view will be from the German side of the bench where the shoulder vise will be.

The design for my bench's base is different from any other trestle style base I have seen, because since the back side requires the legs be flush to the bench top edge. So the design has the joinery in different locations and the stretchers and trestles arranged differently. The tenons will all be drawbored with proabably two pegs each.

Wood Road surface Rectangle Religious item Gas

The leg on the left is the leg that will be on the Roubo side of the bench and have the leg vise. So you can see, instead of the trestle going over the leg, the trestle has a tenon that goes in the leg. This way the entire face of the leg is exposed without the trestle being shown. I'll mention again this assembly still needs a stretcher between the legs.

Wood Material property Gas Tints and shades Rectangle

The leg on the left is the leg that will be on the Roubo side of the bench. Again like the previous picture, the trestles go into the leg instead of the leg inbetween the trestles like most trestle bases. I'll mention again this assembly still needs a third thin leg on the right.

If anyone needs a better visual of the bench design, go back to my first Workbench blog entry where I have pictures posted of the bench's design. The pictures are not exactly the same as the final bench because some dimensions have changed since then. I still need to go out and buy more material for the three stretchers, a thin leg under the shoulder vise, the leg vise chop, and a strip that still needs to be added to the bench top. From this point there is not much left to do.
 

Attachments

#166 ·
Base Complete

Hello. At this point in time I have the workbench finished, but this post will be about the base. I will make a video going over the completed bench and then post my last blog entry of the bench.

Shortly after the last blog post I bought the last portion of wood I needed for the bench. The first piece I worked on was for the underside of the bench top. I made a piece 4 1/2" wide and about 1 1/2" thick to glue to the back edge of the top to make the edge the same thickness as the end caps.



Then I laid out and cut the mortises for the leg assemblies in this piece.


I also had to drill out two holes to get access to the nuts for the end cap bolts.


I also routed a 1" x1" groove for the sliding deadman.

After this point a started work on the base and the stretchers. The parts for the stretchers are about 2 3/8" thick and about 5 3/4" wide. I cut the tenon cheeks on the bandsaw and the shoulders by hand. I got the distance between the tenons by placing the leg assemblies into the mortises in the bench top and marking the distance between the legs.



I first fitted the short stretcher between the one leg assembly.



Then I mortised the side stretchers into place. The stretchers are flush to the front of the legs and are 5" above the ground.



I then worked on the spacers that go between the top of the legs and the bench top.

Wood Table Flooring Wood stain Plank


Make sure that the spacers sit flat on the bench surface and that they are both parallel to each other.

Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Composite material


I also have two holes in the spacer blocks (that I forgot to get pictures of) which accept a dowel in the top of the leg assemblies. The blocks are attached to the top with two bolts each (which I also forgot to get a picture of).

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Composite material Natural material

Here you can see the dowels glued into the leg assemblies. These fit into the holes in the spacer blocks. The dowels help keep the base from racking and twisting while doing heavy work on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Composite material Natural material

In this picture and the one above you can see the pegs in the joints. All the mortise and tenons were draw bored with 3/8" white oak pegs I made using a dowel plate. You can also vaguely see the angled guide that is routed in the front stretcher for the sliding deadman.

Wood Rectangle Material property Gas Tints and shades

The oak pegs for the base joints.

Before I permanently assembled the base in the pictures above, I hand planed all the surfaces on the leg assemblies flush and made sure the front legs were flush with the bench top edge.

Wood Milling Tool Drilling Hardwood


After this all I had to do was place the top on the base and make the sliding deadman, the leg vise, and flatten the bench top. As I said earlier, the bench is currently done. Once I make a video I will post the finished bench.
 

Attachments

#167 ·
Base Complete

Hello. At this point in time I have the workbench finished, but this post will be about the base. I will make a video going over the completed bench and then post my last blog entry of the bench.

Shortly after the last blog post I bought the last portion of wood I needed for the bench. The first piece I worked on was for the underside of the bench top. I made a piece 4 1/2" wide and about 1 1/2" thick to glue to the back edge of the top to make the edge the same thickness as the end caps.

Wood Flooring Gas Composite material Auto part


Then I laid out and cut the mortises for the leg assemblies in this piece.

Wood Wood stain Composite material Plank Table

I also had to drill out two holes to get access to the nuts for the end cap bolts.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood

I also routed a 1" x1" groove for the sliding deadman.

After this point a started work on the base and the stretchers. The parts for the stretchers are about 2 3/8" thick and about 5 3/4" wide. I cut the tenon cheeks on the bandsaw and the shoulders by hand. I got the distance between the tenons by placing the leg assemblies into the mortises in the bench top and marking the distance between the legs.

Wood Hardwood Creative arts Plywood Landscape


I first fitted the short stretcher between the one leg assembly.

Wood Hardwood Gas Machine Composite material


Then I mortised the side stretchers into place. The stretchers are flush to the front of the legs and are 5" above the ground.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Hardwood Composite material


I then worked on the spacers that go between the top of the legs and the bench top.

Wood Table Flooring Wood stain Plank


Make sure that the spacers sit flat on the bench surface and that they are both parallel to each other.

Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Composite material


I also have two holes in the spacer blocks (that I forgot to get pictures of) which accept a dowel in the top of the leg assemblies. The blocks are attached to the top with two bolts each (which I also forgot to get a picture of).

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Composite material Natural material

Here you can see the dowels glued into the leg assemblies. These fit into the holes in the spacer blocks. The dowels help keep the base from racking and twisting while doing heavy work on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Composite material Natural material

In this picture and the one above you can see the pegs in the joints. All the mortise and tenons were draw bored with 3/8" white oak pegs I made using a dowel plate. You can also vaguely see the angled guide that is routed in the front stretcher for the sliding deadman.

Wood Rectangle Material property Gas Tints and shades

The oak pegs for the base joints.

Before I permanently assembled the base in the pictures above, I hand planed all the surfaces on the leg assemblies flush and made sure the front legs were flush with the bench top edge.

Wood Milling Tool Drilling Hardwood


After this all I had to do was place the top on the base and make the sliding deadman, the leg vise, and flatten the bench top. As I said earlier, the bench is currently done. Once I make a video I will post the finished bench.
A very detailed blog. I would be proud to own such a bench in my shop. I look forward to see the video of your build.
Great job.
 

Attachments

#169 ·
Completion

Hello, this is probably my last workbench blog entry, now that my bench is complete! Like I said in my last blog, the workbench has been complete a couple weeks before this post on November 12. With my last post I had wrote about completing the base. After I had the base assembled, glued up, and drawbored I placed the bench top onto the base. Previous to putting the top on the base I had put one coat of boiled linseed oil on the underside of the top. The top is removable from the base, I decided not to drawbore or glue the tenons that insert into the bench top because I feel there is no need to, and it will make moving the bench in the future much more easy. After I had the top in place I did a final flattening of the top surface and a light scrapping.

Then I began work on the sliding deadman. I had a piece of walnut I had kept for this part and milled it to size. The deadman is around 2 3/8" thick. I then cut the angled groove in the bottom of the deadman with a router and 90 degree cutter. This took a lot of fine cuts to ease up to the final fit. I also cut the top portion out which goes into the groove in the bench top. Next I drilled the holes out which are spaced up and down every 1". Then I cut and shaped it. I am sorry but I forgot to get some pictures of the work in progress.

After the sliding deadman was complete I worked on the leg vise. This turned out more complicating than it should because I could not find a 2 1/2" drill bit. I attempted a try at a brace with an adjustable bit, but just as I thought, drilling a 2 1/2" diameter hole in hard maple by hand is impossible. I finally obtained a circle cutter to cut a template which I used to route out the hole in the legvise chop that I needed. Before routing the hole I used the largest drill bit I had to remove most of the waste. I then used my horizontal mortiser attatchment on my table saw to cut out the place for the internal garter. I also made a screw that fit nicely into the nut in the leg. Before shaping the leg vise chop I made the guide that goes on the bottom of the vise which has the holes drilled in it. After the vise was complete I made a handle for each of the 3 vises on my bench and applied the boiled linseed oil.

I was in a hurry the final week of the build so I forgot to get pictures of the legvise and deadman in progress. But here are two pictures of the completed workbench.

Table Wood Plank Hardwood Wood stain


Table Furniture Wood Wood stain Plank


Here are two videos I made going over the bench now that it is finished. The first is more technical, where I go over the reasons behind the design and construction, while the second I show how each vise works and performs.



 

Attachments

#170 ·
Completion

Hello, this is probably my last workbench blog entry, now that my bench is complete! Like I said in my last blog, the workbench has been complete a couple weeks before this post on November 12. With my last post I had wrote about completing the base. After I had the base assembled, glued up, and drawbored I placed the bench top onto the base. Previous to putting the top on the base I had put one coat of boiled linseed oil on the underside of the top. The top is removable from the base, I decided not to drawbore or glue the tenons that insert into the bench top because I feel there is no need to, and it will make moving the bench in the future much more easy. After I had the top in place I did a final flattening of the top surface and a light scrapping.

Then I began work on the sliding deadman. I had a piece of walnut I had kept for this part and milled it to size. The deadman is around 2 3/8" thick. I then cut the angled groove in the bottom of the deadman with a router and 90 degree cutter. This took a lot of fine cuts to ease up to the final fit. I also cut the top portion out which goes into the groove in the bench top. Next I drilled the holes out which are spaced up and down every 1". Then I cut and shaped it. I am sorry but I forgot to get some pictures of the work in progress.

After the sliding deadman was complete I worked on the leg vise. This turned out more complicating than it should because I could not find a 2 1/2" drill bit. I attempted a try at a brace with an adjustable bit, but just as I thought, drilling a 2 1/2" diameter hole in hard maple by hand is impossible. I finally obtained a circle cutter to cut a template which I used to route out the hole in the legvise chop that I needed. Before routing the hole I used the largest drill bit I had to remove most of the waste. I then used my horizontal mortiser attatchment on my table saw to cut out the place for the internal garter. I also made a screw that fit nicely into the nut in the leg. Before shaping the leg vise chop I made the guide that goes on the bottom of the vise which has the holes drilled in it. After the vise was complete I made a handle for each of the 3 vises on my bench and applied the boiled linseed oil.

I was in a hurry the final week of the build so I forgot to get pictures of the legvise and deadman in progress. But here are two pictures of the completed workbench.

Table Wood Plank Hardwood Wood stain


Table Furniture Wood Wood stain Plank


Here are two videos I made going over the bench now that it is finished. The first is more technical, where I go over the reasons behind the design and construction, while the second I show how each vise works and performs.



That is a very nice bench. I also like the video. You can tell you took your time with the project and it show in the finished product.
 

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