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Workbench #9: Making Wooden Screws

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Blog entry by CartersWhittling posted 10-08-2011 02:33 AM 17002 reads 35 times favorited 57 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 8: Progress Video 1 Part 9 of Workbench series Part 10: Making Wooden Nuts »

Hello. This is a video showing the process I go through to make wooden screws. I briefly try to explain how it is set up and show the jig making the screw. I will soon have a video on making wooden nuts aswell. I will eventually make a video showing how to make the tap and screw making jig and explain how to create the size of screw you want. I’m sure there are many other ways to make nuts and screws but this is how I do it and it works fairly well, the main downside being that I can get burn marks in the screw from the router bit from when I stop turning the screw. If anyone else has any jigs for making screws or nuts I would like to see them. My set up could still use optimizing.

-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23 http://carterswhittling.wordpress.com/



57 comments so far

View AttainableApex's profile

AttainableApex

338 posts in 1470 days


#1 posted 10-08-2011 02:45 AM

should put some wax on that screw

-- Ben L

View CartersWhittling's profile

CartersWhittling

451 posts in 1311 days


#2 posted 10-08-2011 02:50 AM

Yeah. There is nothing on it in the video. Straight from the router.

-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23 http://carterswhittling.wordpress.com/

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2286 days


#3 posted 10-08-2011 02:50 AM

bottom line – looks like the vise has some good holding power which is what’s important.

a few things:
1. you should wax the screw to make is slide smoother and quieter in the nut
2. have you tried taking lighter passes before reaching the final thread size to address the chipouts you are getting on your screw (when making screws on a lathe you never do it in 1 pass..)?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View CartersWhittling's profile

CartersWhittling

451 posts in 1311 days


#4 posted 10-08-2011 03:04 AM

To answer you:
1. I will wax the screw, I just havn’t yet.
2. If I use a good dense hardwood I don’t get chip out, its just the screw that I made in the video was a practice, so I used a piece of wood from the firewood pile. The wood was still green and was softer, so it chipped out alot. I usually put the screw back on the lathe after and sand a small flat on the tip of the screws aswell, which when there is minimal chip out, it gets sanded out. I have thought of the idea of taking more than one pass but it would require some modifications to the jig because the screw would not enter the nut as its cutting because the threads on the screw would not be cut to full depth yet. Any more ideas or modifications would be appreciated. I have some ideas floating around in my head but I will wait to try them until my bench is done and I have some time. One thing about making your own vises that is nice, is you can remake and modify things any time. I always enjoy optimizing.

-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23 http://carterswhittling.wordpress.com/

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2286 days


#5 posted 10-08-2011 03:05 AM

yeah, after I posted the question it came to me that if you took a smaller pass on the the first pass you won’t be able to get through the nut – DOH!

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View CartersWhittling's profile

CartersWhittling

451 posts in 1311 days


#6 posted 10-08-2011 03:07 AM

haha. I thought the same thing before and realized it wouldn’t work. You can still edit your comment and remove that part, haha.

-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23 http://carterswhittling.wordpress.com/

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2286 days


#7 posted 10-08-2011 03:11 AM

nah, I’m a believer that what’s said is said and better left as is (I will sometimes edit to ADD something on top, but not to remove). nothing to hide here but humanity in fullest. besides- this doesnt leave any excuses to the next person to ask the same question ;)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View rance's profile

rance

4130 posts in 1798 days


#8 posted 10-12-2011 12:02 AM

Nicely done on the screw and nut. I wait with baited breath on your videos for making the tap & die. I think I could figure most of it out from these videos but I’ll wait for the dedicated videos to make it easier. No sense in making the same mistakes someone else might make, right?

As for multiple passes… You could probably redesign the follower to be spring loaded to accomodate differing depths of cuts. It would always push to the deepest depth of the existing groove. One more suggestion would be to soak the threads with CA glue before your last pass. That might help to eliminate chipout but yours look pretty good as they are.

Oh, and the obligitory “You should wax that screw” comment. LOL! :D

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View CartersWhittling's profile

CartersWhittling

451 posts in 1311 days


#9 posted 10-14-2011 01:20 AM

Thanks for the comment rance. My friend and I made about 5 taps before getting it right. You could probably make the tap and screw jig from looking at the videos, with better results then we did the first few times. I have to consider your suggestion for the screw jig when I work on optimizing them. I acually just finished the 2” diameter screw for my tail vise and it turned out great. No tear out and no burns. I think my 2 1/2” screw jig isn’t set up properly.

-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23 http://carterswhittling.wordpress.com/

View bobwohlers's profile

bobwohlers

3 posts in 1028 days


#10 posted 11-09-2011 08:19 AM

How did you go about laying out the spiral for the threads?

View CartersWhittling's profile

CartersWhittling

451 posts in 1311 days


#11 posted 11-14-2011 01:03 AM

You wrap a piece of paper that wraps once around the screw blank and make marks every 1/2” for 2tpi threads up each edge of the paper. Then connect the lines on a diagonal. I will shortly be making a tutorial on making the tap and screw jig.

-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23 http://carterswhittling.wordpress.com/

View MShort's profile

MShort

1726 posts in 2056 days


#12 posted 11-23-2011 07:07 PM

I am looking foward to see your video on making the tap and screw jig. Thanks for posting this. I still have to make a bench and this blog will give me great guidance when I start it.

-- Mike, Missouri --- “A positive life can not happen with a negative mind.” ---

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6811 posts in 1789 days


#13 posted 04-27-2012 05:27 PM

Hi Carter, I’m not clear on why you cut off 3/16 of the first thread?

Also, to make this jig do you:
1st, cut the 2.5” whole
2nd, cut the 2” whole through the first 2.5” whole
3rd, tap that 2” whole
4th, use the 2.5” bit again to cut of 3/16 of the first thread?

Thanks!

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1331 days


#14 posted 04-27-2012 05:55 PM

^I’ve got a stake in this, so I’m just here to support Mauricio:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View CartersWhittling's profile

CartersWhittling

451 posts in 1311 days


#15 posted 04-28-2012 03:08 PM

Mauricio,

If you do not cut out half of the first thread, then the thread will prevent the dowel from contacting the router bit.

To make the jig I use two pieces of wood. One has the 2.5” hole, the other has the 2”. If you layout the center of the hole on each piece, wrapping the layout lines around the part, and use a fence on a drill press, it will make aligning the pieces easy. So the first step would be to drill out both those holes. Then you tap the 2” hole. Then line up to two pieces together and screw them together. Then using the 2.5” hole as a guide for your drill bit, drill through it into the 2” tapped hole until you drill halfway into the thread that the router bit lines up with. You will also need the cut out a gap in the top of the threaded part (to allow for the router bit to be lowered into the jig) before screwing the two pieces together.

If that doesn’t make much sense in words, it will be thoroughly explained in the video series.

-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23 http://carterswhittling.wordpress.com/

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