Hello. This morning I took the clamps off the glue up assembly and scraped the glue squeeze-out off. The joint turned out nice and the top surfaces are all within a 1/32” of being flush. I then chamfered the dog holes and laid out were I wanted the holdfast holes to be.
I placed all but the first and last holes, flush to the front of the dogholes, so I can place a batten across a bench dog and holdfast. They are also positioned so the holdfasts reach the edge of the bench and cross over a couple inches onto the other side of the bench.
I then glued up the spacer block for the shoulder vise. I didn’t have a block of maple at least 2 1/2” thick so I laminated two pieces, and got a block 2 3/4” thick.
I then clamped the spacer block to the assembly and transfered the line for the threaded rod and drilled it out with a 1/2” diameter hole instead of a 3/8” which is the rods diameter. Because the direction of the grain in the spacer block will expand sideways, the larger hole will accomodate the wood movement.
This is how I drilled the holes in the other pieces as well. I drilled through both sides of the piece with my best brad points and if the holes did not connect I used one of my longer, cheaper, bits to connect them.
In this picture you can see the threaded rod going through part of the bench top. This is one reason why the bench has a gap between the top, to allow space for the nut on the rod, and to give the bench tops a place to expand into. You can see my first blog entry on the bench design to see the gap I am talking about here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/23792
Next I will be routing the grooves for the spacer blocks spline and dovetailing the shoulder vise endcaps.
-- And whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the Lord... Colossians 3:23