I sanded the appropriate parts of the parts (don’t sand anything that mates with another part, it will round the edge over and ruin the joint). I then clamped up two sides at a time (because I only have enough clamps for one project). Then, I cut all the rabbets and dadoes in the sides to accept the drawer/shelf. I also plugged the dado on the legs. The next step is to make the mortises for the cross-pieces.
Thoughts: address chip-out (tape, backer board, etc.), better edge treatment than random orbital sanding, better dust control, clean up the shop, better power supply, better lighting, etc. Better glue ups = have clamps all ready to go in the proper sizes/configuration.
I waited to make the mortises for the cross-pieces specifically because ten years ago, I made a coffee table and put the mortises in the wrong places. If you wait until the piece is assembled, the proper mortise placement is obvious. Make sure your fence can handle the width of the side without falling off, that would totally f-up the rabbet/dadoes. While clamping the auxillary fence on, I didn’t realize it was sprung because the clamps had to be high enough to allow the extra-thick legs to clear. This resulted in the aux fence being splayed out at an angle, which threw off the rabbet/dado measurements.
I also started to chisel out the dado filler strip after it was glued in, but the grain caused it to dig in. The first one chipped out. No problemo on the the other seven.
I’ve always been loathe to use water to clean up glue squeeze out, but now that I’m back to water-based stains, I’m trying to relax. I have to admit, I only added glue to the tenons, not the dadoes. I know this is bad form, but I already had sufficient squeeze out that I had to clean up. I can’t imagine adding glue to the dadoes. How many of you have thought of the “floating panel” ala Norm comment while putting a panel together?
Back to the mortises. I was supposed to make them while the legs were separate, but because of my rationalization, I figured I could do it when the sides were glued up. Set up a roller stand alongside the mortiser, and you’re good to go. A 3/8” mortise 7/16” from the edge is typical.
Careful with the glue = Squeeze out:
My shop buddy inspecting the sides:
Dado blade set at 3/4” for rabbet & dadoes:
All dadoes done:
Fixed the dado:
Laying out the mortises for the cross pieces (hopefully tomorrow):
-- You can't control the wind, but you can trim your sails