Limbert Lamp Table - Stickley #240 #3: Jigs & Dry Fit

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Blog entry by CaptainSkully posted 08-01-2009 05:38 AM 8654 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Glue Ups Part 3 of Limbert Lamp Table - Stickley #240 series Part 4: Template Routing »

Following TreeFrog as closely as possible, I cut out the blanks for the sides. I cheated a tad and used the wedges from the prototype to establish the tapers on the sides. One one side, I used one wedge, on the second side, I had to use both to compensate for the previous taper. These were cut with the blade at 90 degrees to the table saw to give me a point of reference when I’m cutting the miters.


I created the jigs to hold the sides stable while I cut them at a 44 degree miter. I found that my jigs were too short and created a dangerous tipping situation while running the sides across the table saw. I also found that 44 degrees is a bit too steep, so I’m going to try 43 degrees tomorrow. When I taped the sides together, there was a slight gap on the outside corners. I’d rather the gap be in the inside, hence the 43 degrees. I mistakenly thought that if I captured the blank with an internal block on the jig, it would more positively locate the blank. What I found out was that it interfered with putting the blank in the jig, so I removed it, hence the scabs in the middle of the jigs.

Dry Fit

I cut the 3 degree angle on the top and bottom while the blanks were still rectangular, which gave me two long edges to run along the fence. It also guaranteed that the tops and bottoms were parallel. I also set the fence at the correct distance to raise (plunge?) the blade up into the sides to create the shelf support bottom, also making that parallel to the bottom. I also plowed out the slot that the cross pieces will fit into while the sides were parallel, making sure the slot was centered. The only problem is that if the blanks are slightly different widths, it translates directly to the slot width. I rationalized that the shoulder of the dado on the cross pieces will hide any slop and the whole thing will lock into place because of the angle of the sides.

Cross Pieces

Following TreeFrog’s advice, I created solid cross-pieces to support the top, instead of the corbels that Robert Lang describes in his book. I think this is a relatively easy way to make the table as strong as possible. Once I get the sides dry fit properly, I’ll measure the angle along the sides to determine the proper bias for the dadoes on the cross pieces.

I will use the template with the router and proper bit to generate an accurate internal cutout. I roughed the cutout with the bandsaw. I cut the shelf supports with my dovetail saw to get an idea of how to make the template for the shelf. The top will just be a standard square with rounded corners, not requiring a template. Before I glue up the sides, I’ll tweak the inner shelf. I have to admit that when I laid out the template for the sides, I didn’t follow the fractional measurements from Mr. Lang. I rounded them to the nearest convenient inch. I’m afraid this might throw off some of the other documented measurements, so I’m approaching the final dimensions carefully.

-- You can't control the wind, but you can trim your sails

2 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile


117115 posts in 3601 days

#1 posted 08-01-2009 05:46 AM

super info great blog

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Napaman's profile


5526 posts in 4101 days

#2 posted 08-11-2009 03:42 AM

wow…great details…

-- Matt--Proud LJ since 2007

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