So here it is, the final glue up. I over clamped to be safe, not in the sense of clamping pressure but as far as where I was clamping.
This glue up entailed gluing all 4 sets of tails and pins with the mitered front (all the same piece) of the carcass as well as gluing in the center of the floating panel. By glueing the center of the panel I control the movement of expansion and contraction to both edges, ensuring the gaps always stay very close to the same, also keeping them as small as possible. The more important visual reason for doing this is to ensure the inlay is always lined up. Although the inlay is one piece through the panel and carcass I still glued the carcass in so the vertical plane the inlay lies in will not move at all. The tails were set to stick above the pins since they would be easier to plane. When I finally planed the edges, which will be my finished surface, I put a small chamfer on the side that would tear out while planing. This chamfer only goes to my final depth, and takes control to hit the uniformly across the width
Originally I intended to curve the top and bottom edges of the carcass to match the curves they already have on the outside, making them parallel. I have done this before on a much larger scale and knew it would take about a day to do, unfortunately I did not have a day, plus doing this on an edge that is already a compound curve makes it a little more time consuming and increases the likely hood of the bit to vibrate.
I already covered how I rout the groove into the panel, but here is how I continued the inlay in the top and bottom of the carcass sides.
The tools I used are in the picture. I scribed the path the inlay would sit into and matched the depth it would sit into the panel slightly undercutting the inside edge to ensure the outside sat flush. I cut just inside my line stopping slightly short, and chiseled it in. The small chisel I made from an old joiner blade and have not gotten around to making a handle
In the next post Ill talk about how I cut and fit the drawer fronts, not yet shown, and will show the finished piece with and without finish.
Thanks for reading!
-- Byron Conn, Woodworking/Furniture Design at Rochester Institute of Technology, http://byronconn.com