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Folding Gun Rack #1: Drawings

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Blog entry by Buckskin posted 2486 days ago 19273 reads 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Folding Gun Rack series Part 2: In Process »

My fellow Legionnaires got called out today to provide Military Honors for a Brother who got orders to report to the CG above. While we were getting ready to go I mentioned I had seen this awesome portable gun rack (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2847, courtesy of Proclamator) that we could sure use while we wait. Like all things Military, waiting is just standard procedure it seems. Anyway the boys (most old enough to be my Dad) where ecstatic about it when I said I had enough scrap laying around and all I would need to buy is some hardware. Of course, this will be donated and heck I will get to use it more often than I care too.

So, I came home and gathered up my graph paper, pencil, triangle, ruler and went to work. I am not that fluent with SketchUp yet as I spent hours and hours on the tables. I pulled up Mr. Proclamator’s post and went to drawing. So here is one way to do it.

I think when it is all said and done I will be using hinges like he did, but I am going to give the wooden peg and catch a dry run and see how I like it. I adapted it by adding one gun slot because when we are a full team we have seven rifles. I think I have enough 1×4 bed slats to make this.

Mr. Proclamator I hope you don’t mind that I did this and would sure appreciate any suggestions you may have.



5 comments so far

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4435 posts in 2558 days


#1 posted 2486 days ago

Buck,
I think it will work fine. Anything to help honor our fallen heroes.
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View Proclamator's profile

Proclamator

42 posts in 2492 days


#2 posted 2485 days ago

Buck the plans look good. On the rack I made I used a bolt, washers, sleeve (conduit), and locknut for a pivot hinge. I used a modified leg support to lock in the open position, but your plan with the peg looks good; I can envision a rack made out of oak and nicely finished for indoor use like at gun shows.

If I can offer a tip, the easiest way I found to cut the appropriate angles for the legs, is to build the stand, without the angles, open it standing up on a flat surface ,like a table saw, and use a straight edge on the flat surface to mark the angle on all of the legs.
I used dado joints for the cross pieces to keep it strong and light.

Feel free to use, modify, share or build the gun rack design.
Buck, thank you for drawing up the plans, you saved me the trouble of taking them out of my head and putting them on paper to share on LJ.

-- Dave Idaho

View Buckskin's profile

Buckskin

486 posts in 2584 days


#3 posted 2485 days ago

A note here the actual rack portion for the rifles is tilted back 15 degrees. The support legs are angled and aligned to allow a “flat” configuration when not in use.

I added 3/4” cleats in each butt plate bay to help keep the rifles strait in the bays.

By the drawing I have all dados inset at 1/4” with three 1/4” dowels in each assembly, brads in the cleat assembly and choice of favorite exterior grade glue for all.

View WoodWright's profile

WoodWright

20 posts in 2672 days


#4 posted 2483 days ago

What a nifty idea…!

Assuming I correctly understand the use of this rack, how would it work to lengthen the sides of the rack (buttstock end) below the pivots so that the rifles are held higher off the ground? The props would then need to be longer too. I’m thinking that for all ”the boys (most old enough to be my Dad)”, bending over to pick up rifles nearly on the ground might not be their most favorite part of the ceremony… ...It’s just a thought. After all, the whole point of the rack is their convenience.

I would use carriage bolts and locknuts for the pivots, with metal sleeves to prevent the threads from chewing up the holes in the moving wood parts.

I’m also thinking that the dowel pins that the props hook onto need to be placed far enough toward the pivots so they clear the props (at their pivot ends) when folded flat, and spacer blocks will be needed between the rack sides and the folding legs so it can fold flat for storage with the props nesting between the legs and the rack sides. I think fender washers between wood parts at their pivot points might be good.

To keep the folded assembly flat together while standing in storage in a closet, I think an 8d nail on a short cord on each side could pin leg, prop and rack side together when folded flat, inserted through about an 1/8” hole drilled through all three parts while folded—but unnecessary if hung up upside down on a wall instead.

What would be the appropriate color & finish for this?

View Buckskin's profile

Buckskin

486 posts in 2584 days


#5 posted 2483 days ago

WoodWright ~ Good job filling in the blanks. In this configuration the front sling post is at or near pocket or belt buckle level, no stooping to retrieve the weapon. Just grab it up by the fore stock.

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