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9K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Broooklyn 
#1 ·
Shelf Design

As one of first, very simple projects, I'm going to make some shelves in the bedroom closet (which is oddly shaped). So I have some newbie questions.

I'm concerned about the smaller shelves to the right. These shelves will hold shoeboxes and folded clothing. I'm wondering if support is needed along the left side of the shelves. I don't want to put L brackets since I think they'll look ugly. There is the possibility of clamping a support mechanism to the near by pole. The pole is from Ikea and they have clamps you can buy for it.

Also, what kind of wood to use? I was thinking 3/4" plywood and staining it dark. Then some veneer around the edges. Does this sound kosher?

Lastly, I have only hand tools. Cutting plywood by hand sounds quite laborious. Should I be able to get by or should I look into borrowing a circular saw?

Click on image to view the entire thing. (The grey/metal parts are support for existing sliding door)
 
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#6 ·
It looks as though some support is needed for the cantilevered corners. You could "stack" 1×2's cut to fit between the shelves with a dab of glue and a tonail or screw at each end (this would be an ideal use for pocket screws).

You will need to begin collecting power tools. I would start with a circular saw ($30 - $50), an electric drill motor ($35 - $70), and a Kreg Mini Jig kit ($20) might be handy. You will also need a basic set of drill bits and some power screw driver bits for the drill motor. As you begin more projects, you will discover that you want/need additional tools such as an electric sander, jig saw, router, etcetera, plus filling out your hand tool collection. Later you will find that you need larger woodworking machines.
 
#7 ·
I like to use 10 or 12" wide pine for shelves. It will be a lot easier to cut than sheets of plywood. Unless you use a cabinet grade plywood, it will take some work to get it smooth enough for a shelf for clothing. If you are not dead set on a pole for the front support, a 1×3 will suppoort the shelves and you can nail or screw right into the ends of the shelves if the aren't plywood.
 
#8 ·
Ok - I gave in and got the a circular saw. I also got a 40 tooth carbide blade and a 140 tooth plywood blade for backup. I also ordered the Kreg mini jig (not for this project, but definitely for the future). Luckily, I already own a decent drill and bits.

Re: Cantilever corners: I think I may just use metal L brackets because I want to leave the left side open so boxes and whatnot may extend a little past the shelf if needed. Using the pole for supports may look like a bit of a hack job. so I'm over that idea.

Any ideas how I can make the L brackets look a bit more refined? :)

@TopamaxSurvivor - If I can find pine, I would prefer that over plywood also.
 
#9 ·
The Shelves: Cut and Stained

So, in response to my previous post - I'm only working on the right side of the closet design and I only have 6 shelves at the moment instead of 7.

The wood I ended up getting was "Whitewood" which seems to be some kind of spruce or pine. It's pretty light and soft. I got it because it was pretty cheap and the width was perfect so I didn't have to do any ripping. I did end up getting a circular saw but there was a massive snow storm so I had to work indoors. Luckily, I didn't get plywood because cutting this softwood by hand was enough work for me! So for six shelves, I had to make six cuts which would have taken about 5 minutes with a circular saw. Instead it took a couple hours since I'm a newbie, I had a crappy saw, and I was doing a lot of learning along the way. In the end, I'm glad I did it by hand if only for the learning.

Since it's too cold to stain outdoors and I don't have a real shop, I went with a water-based stain. I've read mixed reviews about water-based stains but I can say (as a person with no oil experience!) The water-based stain was a pleasure. Clean up is simple and I have no fear of ruining anything around me. I gave the shelves a pre-stain, then two layers of Minwax American Walnut stain, then two layers of Zar satin finish. Sanding in-between, of course.

Things I've learned so far:

1. Cutting straight by hand in 3D is hard.
2. Lowes sells some pretty crappy wood so check all your boards before you buy. I got a pretty warped one.
3. Using wood to support the wood shelves is A LOT cheaper than using metal L brackets.
4. Even if some sides of your wood will be hidden, stain them anyway because you may change your mind.
5. Pre-stain is quite helpful
6. When wiping the stain off, sometimes that "wood grain" is actually streaks from wiping!
7. Water-based finishes dry fast…sometimes a little too fast!



 
#11 ·
Shelves Installed

The puppies are now installed with metal L brackets. L brackets were not the look at I was going for but I figured they give good support without having to block off the left side of the shelves with a support beam. If I had a router, I may have attempted to inset the L bracket into the bottom of the shelf but for now, this newbie is happy enough. Anybody ever veneer an L bracket? :)

Not the most artistic project but fun nonetheless.

p.s. That's an IKEA sliding door that I hacked and installed in the closet opening.





Sorry for the toilet shot!
 
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