When I left you I was just about to cut all the pattern pieces. Well I did this successfully and cut all the pieces 2 mm longer than necessary, to allow for clean-up. With pieces 6 mm x 3 mm its very difficult to avoid split out on the cut, even with an 80 tooth cross cut blade. The two mm allows for precision sizing as well.
First to clean up the 45° ends. Here’s my belt sander, 915 mm x 100 mm belt. 180 grit for this job.
Surrounded by the usual clutter. The mitre gauge for it is like this
All very well but over the years there has been some wear to the sliding bar
which means it could be out +/- 0.5°. Too much for my liking. So to build a jig. I machined a 16 mm x 6 mm piece of Oak to fit the slot
and cut a piece of 9 mm Birch ply to the same size as the table
I secured this to the sliding bar with three screws. Gapping it from the belt by 0.6 mm using a piece of veneer. Then using my 45°, 60°, 120° and 135° perspex template (still accurate, I checked it and its within 1’ (1/60th °) of true) I marked a nominal cut line across the top plate
Unscrewed the top plate and cut the piece into two. The left piece screws precisely into the original two left hand screw holes (verified with 45° template).
Next the gapping for the two pieces, done with some leftover 6 mm x 3 mm strip from the pattern cutting).
and the right side piece was screwed down to the sliding bar (gapped from the belt with veneer again). To use you simply put the piece to be cleaned up in the slot
and use the long (gapping) piece as a push stick to feed it forward
holding the piece being sanded down with another piece of scrap
with the jig slid from left to right the push stick can be used to push the piece out of the jig, when clear of the sanding belt
Two test pieces glued (CA glue) to show accuracy of the 45° finish.
More sanding to finish length in the next part
Be seeing you
-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com