Now the ‘boards’ you saw in part one were oversize at 45mm wide, purposefully so. Its easier to glue up and cut. There is a small allowance for error, if one piece isn’t square with the next layer. So, first things first, cut out six of each wood 45mm square. I always cut a spare just in case of screw ups.
The first shaping work will be done with two layers stuck together
Spares to the right. The sycamore is glued to the Sapele with superglue, using an accelerator on one piece
the grain on the two layers being at 90° to each other, just like plywood. The pieces are labelled Left, Back, Right, Front and Top (L,B,R,F,T). Then, paying attention to grain direction they are taped together on a piece of masking tape which itself is taped down to the cutting board.
A nominal centre line is drawn through all and lines for the hinge pin slots marked.
They are the all turned 90° on the tape and the back/top hinge pin slot markings made
The slots are then cut out with a knife. Its easy to tell when you’ve cut through the Sycamore layer. Its softer than the other two woods and as the grain of the Sapele layer is at 90° to that of the Sycamore you can feel a slight difference in the resistance to the knife blade.
I’ll be cutting the hinge slots for L,R and T first. These are at the bottom of the picture. These will also have their pins installed and the Walnut layer glued on. The B and F pieces will be fitted against these.
I cut five hinge pins from the 1mm brass rod for the slots. Here’s an example.
I had planned on getting further today but the grass needs cutting and there are some suspicious looking bulldozers at the end of the road that I might have to lie in front of.
Be seeing you.
-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com