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EZ Mitre #1: Update - Using router bits

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Blog entry by BritBoxmaker posted 1069 days ago 6205 reads 58 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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Since the original EZ mitre blog there have been variations added. To formalise the adding of new and/or additional methods to the technique I will add updates for now and re-release the whole thing if I ever get time.

The main reason for this update is, as has often been asked, ‘can this technique be done using a table mounted router and ‘v’ groove bit ?’ Up until now I have been reticent to suggest this but I have just this week discovered router bits that are up to the task. They come from the Axminster ‘Axcaliber’ range, available from Axminster.co.uk. I’d be surprised if there are not suppliers of similar quality bits in the US.

I’ve experimented with both a 45° and 60° ‘V’ bit ( 1/4” ) from this range and can report total success. The bits are pin sharp at the tip, this being essential to produce a perfect mitred groove.

This shows the 45° bit with a test piece in Sycamore at the top, a setup cut in the middle and the 45° bit at the bottom.

I also tried their 60° bit

To that end I made up a test hexagonal box in MDF (above and below)

The advantages of using a router over the tablesaw for this technique are twofold:

1. The setup for the cut is a good deal less fraught with the bit height being easy to adjust to just under the board depth. Both cuts are done at once so no resetting any fences, which could introduce errors in the cut.

2. The angles of the joints are precise and don’t involve tilting any blades. I like to leave my tablesaw blade at 90° if I can, it saves resetting the thing halfway through a project.

Well this has made things a lot simpler. Which can only be a good thing.

Be seeing you.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com



10 comments so far

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4617 posts in 2383 days


#1 posted 1069 days ago

That is sweet Martyn.

I have played some with this technique, and it works on this side of the pond too. I have found that Whiteside bits have the sharpness and a pointy point too. What I have not tried is to route up through a board that has veneer on the top. I guess that results may vary, grain direction and all. Masking tape or a sacrificial scrap on top might help.

You could ask for a magnetic digital angle thingy (Wixey) for your next birthday. They really do a good job at easily setting a blade at the desired angle. Just food for thought. I love mine.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View degoose's profile

degoose

6883 posts in 1856 days


#2 posted 1069 days ago

That technique works down under too…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Monkeyshines's profile

Monkeyshines

21 posts in 1114 days


#3 posted 1069 days ago

Thank you for sharing your wonderful tips! I have tried your E-Z Mitre method in only one project (just recently) and am looking forward to trying another beginning this week! YOU are an inspiration! ~Monkeyshines.

-- Monkeyshines

View fernandoindia's profile

fernandoindia

1054 posts in 1445 days


#4 posted 1069 days ago

Thank you Martyn.

Tried this EZ miter on a router table a couple of times. I even dared using the table saw, but was difficult enough for me.

I used a 90° no brand bit. Glad of your found advantages on the bit.

-- Back home. Fernando

View Druid's profile

Druid

560 posts in 1296 days


#5 posted 1066 days ago

Thanks for the explanation Martyn. Now there’s yet another process for me to master. Looks good.

-- John, British Columbia, Canada

View LittlePaw's profile

LittlePaw

1565 posts in 1579 days


#6 posted 1061 days ago

I was planning to make some boxes next week for B Day presents next week. I will b using the EZ miter to make it it easier. Thanx Martyn.

-- LittlePAW - The sweetest sound in my shop, next to Mozart, is what a hand plane makes slicing a ribbon.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7447 posts in 2553 days


#7 posted 917 days ago

Martyn,

What a WONDERFUL technique you have developed!!

I prefer the Router Table method… just seems to be easier and more accurate for me.

Another tip worth mentioning here, that I have always used, is to always make the End Cross Cuts first followed by the With Grain Cuts… to cleanup any possible Tearout or rough edges of the Cross cuts.

Thank you so VERY MUCH for sharing this technique!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View BritBoxmaker's profile

BritBoxmaker

4280 posts in 1537 days


#8 posted 917 days ago

Good point, Joe. Glad you like it.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com

View Don Johnson's profile

Don Johnson

582 posts in 1282 days


#9 posted 583 days ago

Well, after using a flat topped mitre bit to make a tray for salt and pepper pots for the kitchen at our village hall, I obtained one of the Axcaliber ‘pointy’ bits from Axminster tools here in the UK. Despite being older and slower, I still have the impatience of youth, so to get started immediately I thought I would try to make a proper box using some 1/4 inch oak-veneered MDF left over from previous projects. I learned several lessons:

The starting piece of stock must be REALLY rectangular !

Veneered materials are perhaps NOT the best to use

I needed to be more careful in working out the location and size of the of the slot/rebate for the lipping.

I need thinner lipping for 1/4 inch board.

I need advice from Martyn (Brit Boxmaker) about cutting the top off – I did not get a perfectly level cut all round.

However, I have to say that the technique for creating boxes works fantastically well. Seeing the cutter make a ridge in the tape stuck on the top of the board was quite exciting! Even with my lack of experience, the final joints look super – I was amazed at what I achieved! I’ve never had joints that perfect.

I got a little break-out of the veneer when cutting the bottom slot, but its on the underneath of the box so luckily does not show to the casual observer (or in the picture below).

Because my lipping was too ‘tall’ for the lid, I had to gradually sand it down, but didn’t go all the way, so that there is a ‘line’ visible – which I quite liked. Here is the box:

Finished with three coats of Danish Oil and some Renaissance Wax, and not anywhere near Martyn’s standard, but hopefully I’ll get better.

-- Don, Somerset UK, http://www.donjohnson24.co.uk

View BritBoxmaker's profile

BritBoxmaker

4280 posts in 1537 days


#10 posted 583 days ago

I think you’ve done very well, Don. I’m glad you enjoyed yourself. Careful though, you might get hooked on this method. I have. I can sometimes feel the bit tickle my finger if I have one on the place it passes through. Minimal danger though as the rotational speed of the mitre bit’s tip is not that high, plus its set not to come through the board anyway.

Regarding the separation cut. The fence needs to be exactly parallel to the table saw blade. You need to keep the top of the box tight to the saw fence throughout the cut. Use wedges the same thickness as your table saw blade width to keep the gap you’ve created from closing up as you cut around the box and/or set the saw blade height to cut just shy (0.5mm ish) of the box wall thickness all around and complete the separation with a knife. The latter also helps to keep a sharp corner on the inside of the box.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com

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