Yesterday I left you with a pile of wooden diamonds. Now to make the pattern. I use a template to set out the blocks in this design.
Its a simple rectangular grid where the intersection of the lines mark the places where The points of the diamonds should be in the pattern. I used CAD to draw this but pencil and ruler would do just as well. For the 20mm diamond I am using the ‘x’ spacing is 20mm and the ‘y’ spacing 11.547mm (now you see why I use CAD), 11.5mm will do.I’ve drawn in the bottom left block as an aide memoire. This is taped to the bench.
Next trick is to lay the pattern out on some tranparent library film
Its clear and has a sticky back. The sort of thing we used to cover school books in, back in the days when we used books! So I cut a piece and laid and taped it over the alignment grid, sticky side up.
You have to remember that the pattern you now lay out will be laterally transposed, left to right. ie you are looking at the side of it that will be glued down to the base board. So to start out on the pattern here is the first block laid out and stuck onto the film.
I used the tip of my knife to pick up the diamonds. It is very useful for precise positioning of them on the film . Much more precise than my thick fingers
This is with a few more pieces in place
just about the time I realised I was doing this in a right handed fashion, like writing. I was forced to do this at school so I suppose it was a reflex action. Now the grid is printed on A4 paper (near letter size) and so doesn’t go far enough for the pattern I’m using. No matter. A regular pattern has already been set up by the grid and the extra 1/2 block to the right and 1 1/2 above just tend to fall into place. Much more than this and you can obviously cut and paste sheets of grid together. Here’s the whole pattern
The good thing about laying the pattern out on sticky backed film is that you glue it all in one go.
The next bit was fairly mundain and included trimming the pattern off square and adding a mitred border.
The pattern was the glued to one side of the base board. I normally use PVA but Titebond III was in my glue roller so I used that. The plane Ash was glued to the other side. The grain orientation of the Ash and a substantial part of the pattern were vertical (relative to the portrait layout of the board) so the base board’s outer grain orientation was chosen to be horizontal (relative to portrait) to minimise warping in the completed board. The glue-up was clamped in Little Boy
the smaller of my two veneer clamps (cauls). This one takes boards up to 300mm x 400mm and up to about 100mm deep (though that rarely happens with veneering).
In the next part I’ll be showing the results of the clamping and the fitting of the clip.
Be seeing you
-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com