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Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Great work Brandon and thanks for the blog.

I'm not sure that you need the area to one side of the chest available to remove a saw. If you have a small "boot" for the tip of the saw to slip into first and a locking tote holder I think it would hold just fine.

Image


If the piece inside the hole was sloped and each piece had a piece of leather or suede glued to it I think it would be more than sufficient to hold the saw.

Anyway, can't say with certainty that will work but it's what I'm planning to try out on mine. So, FWIW.
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Very cool
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Well done BW! Looks like it holds all the goodies required. I do think that the lid needs some sort of adornment though.

Image
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #84 ·
Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
MonsDr, welcome to Lumberjocks! I like the idea of hanging the saw vertically in the back, but I'm afraid it'd be way too much work to re-engineer the tool chest at this point. But it might be very helpful for something else wanting to do the Dutch tool chest from the start. I hadn't even thought about using the door as a place for the saws, I'll have to see if they'll fit and if it'd be practical. At the very least, that's a good spot for sticking a bow saw, when I get one. Thanks for the suggestion.

CL810, I do like the locking tote holders. Actually, I"ve already made them for the two saws, but haven't installed them yet. My only concern is that if I only support the saws from the two ends that they may sag, which probably isn't good. I think what I'll end up doing is adding some type of a middle support as well.

Stef, yes, I'm pretty sure that sign would be a great addition to the tool chest.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #85 ·
Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Another note on the rasps and files. I just have inexpensive ones. If I had forked out a nice chunk of change for a set of Ariou rasps, I'd be storing them differently.
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Nice tool box Brandon. Hope it works well for you!
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
How about attaching them to the Front Panel, Above the #7 Plane, should be room for at least a couple of saws
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #88 ·
Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
I had that thought too, DaddyZ, but they won't fit there, even without the jointer plane there.
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Think outsdie the box - back panel
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #90 ·
Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
DaddyZ, like I told Mauricio, I don't think they'd do well outside of the box. If you're only meaning that metaphorically and referring to the inside back panel, then that's probably not a good option either because I already have all my tools there in place as seen in the photos above.

As to the suggestion about placing the saws on the inside of the front door, well, it looks like it'd fit:

Image
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
I know just what you're going through with the Tetris mind shifting of all the tools.
As to the saws how about a hinged panel that is screwed to the lid, with the saws sandwiched between the lid and the panel. Saws would be totally protected and supported. I little turn button at the top (when open) to lower the panel and access the saws.
Jim
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
You know what they say in Netherlands, "if it ain't Dutch, it ain't much". Nice looking tool chest. I researched the terms carcass and carcase as I too have seen it written both ways. I used two sources, Merriam Webster online dictionary and Random House College Dictionary. Neither acknowledges carcase as real word, although Merriam Webster says it is British variant of carcass. So carcass it is, unless you are a British variant.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #93 ·
Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Jim, I like that idea. I've already made the holders at this point, but I think your solution is a great one. Especially sine you can then put something on the panel and get more space.

Bondo, thanks for that info on carcass/carcase. Even though I'm somewhat of an anglophile, I'll stick to spelling it carcass.
 

Attachments

Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
How the heck did I miss this post?! Fantastic work here sir!. I think I have to build one of these for power tools, just because I need to make one…not because I need it.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #95 ·
Tills and Thrills

This is where we left off last time-- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I've seen it both ways.

Image


So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I'm going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I'm not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if it's organized correctly, it shouldn't be a problem.

Image


First off are the back saws (the dovetail, carcass, and tenon saws). I followed a similar design found in tool chests except I angled the top of the till to match the angle of the lid opening on the tool chest. Here are the saws in a test on the workbench:

Image


And here they are in the tool chest:

Image


I initially was going to string a single board about two inches wide from the left side of the chest to the right that would most of my chisels, marking knifes, awls, files, rasps, and screwdrivers. The problem with this was that some tools had longer handles and others had longer business ends. This made it impossible to use a single board because some tools would bottom out on the shelf and others would hit the lid with their handles. So I decided to group similar tools together. The first of which were the chisels. What I did was make two rows for the chisels set at different heights to make them easier to access. The longer chisels are in the back. That's also a burnisher on the lower right end, but it fit nicely there.

Image


Then I tackled was the marking and measuring tools. Here I have the square, the combo square, a couple of awls, a dovetail marker, a marking knife, a wheel marker, and a caliper (behind the marking knife).

Image


Next up are the planes. I wanted to limit the number of planes and so I have a jointer (Bailey 7), a smoother (Sargent 409) and a Jack (either my Keen Kutter 5 or my Stanley SW 92, I can't decide). I also found a place for my Stanley 93, Stanley 60 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2. I screwed in the dividers in place so they can easily be moved around if necessary.

Image


The rasps, files, and screwdrivers were roughly the same size and thought a smaller tray would serve them well. I like the idea, but I can see a couple of drawbacks: first the tools might wear on each other, and second accessing the lower tools might be a little pain. The little tray is dovetailed and screwed in place so it's not going anywhere. It's only about 3 1/2" wide, which makes accessing tools below it easier.

Image


A second, larger tray sits below the smaller tray, which is meant to hold miscellaneous hand tools. Like the first tray, this too is dovetailed, but is removable in case I want to take it out of the chest.

Image


Image


And here is what the storage set up looks like all empty:

Image


And all full:

Image


This part was a lot of fun, trying to figure out how to fit everything in place while using the space as efficiently as possible. I'm sure others might have gone about things differently, but I'm pretty happy with the layout and hopefully this will help give someone some ideas for their own tool chest or wall cabinet.

I still need to figure out what I want to do with the larger saws. I still think its best to attach them to the lid, but as Ryan (RGTools) pointed out, the design that Chris Schwarz uses makes it necessary to have ample space on both sides of the tool chest to access the saws. I would like to be able to pull the saws out from the top, so if you have any ideas on that, I'm all ears.
Ryan, I'd love to see a power tools Dutch tool chest. It might have a little bit of an identity crisis though.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #96 ·
The Larger Saws

My goal on the Dutch tool chest was to incorporate a space for two larger saws in the design. Like Chris Schwarz's Dutch tool chests, I was determined to locate the saws on the lid, yet what I didn't like about his design was that it required ample space on both sides of the tool chest to pull the saws out. I usually don't have much space on either side. Here's his design (and notice that you can't pull that bottom saw out without running it into that workbench on the left):

Image

[source]

Here's another approach that attaches a saw to the lid:

Image

[source]

What I opted for was a design that is more similar to the one in the second picture, but with mine one can pull out the saws with no lateral space needed. But enough of that, let's get to the photos. Here are the saws attached to the lid:

Image


Here's the lid with the apparatus in place but no saws:

Image


Saw handle:

Image


The open tool chest:

Image


Obviously one of the big considerations for me was that the design had to support the saws without letting them bow when hanging upside-down, and so each of the saws are supported on each end and in the middle. Also I had to fit both saws in such a way that I could still close the lid, and it barely clears in some places by around 1/8". My first attempt had a couple of issues with this and I had to rearrange things. You'll also notice that the middle support is off-center. I did this in case I want to attach a hasp to the inside of the lid. As usual, comments and questions are welcome.

On the next blog post I'll discuss a decorative component.
 

Attachments

The Larger Saws

My goal on the Dutch tool chest was to incorporate a space for two larger saws in the design. Like Chris Schwarz's Dutch tool chests, I was determined to locate the saws on the lid, yet what I didn't like about his design was that it required ample space on both sides of the tool chest to pull the saws out. I usually don't have much space on either side. Here's his design (and notice that you can't pull that bottom saw out without running it into that workbench on the left):

Image

[source]

Here's another approach that attaches a saw to the lid:

Image

[source]

What I opted for was a design that is more similar to the one in the second picture, but with mine one can pull out the saws with no lateral space needed. But enough of that, let's get to the photos. Here are the saws attached to the lid:

Image


Here's the lid with the apparatus in place but no saws:

Image


Saw handle:

Image


The open tool chest:

Image


Obviously one of the big considerations for me was that the design had to support the saws without letting them bow when hanging upside-down, and so each of the saws are supported on each end and in the middle. Also I had to fit both saws in such a way that I could still close the lid, and it barely clears in some places by around 1/8". My first attempt had a couple of issues with this and I had to rearrange things. You'll also notice that the middle support is off-center. I did this in case I want to attach a hasp to the inside of the lid. As usual, comments and questions are welcome.

On the next blog post I'll discuss a decorative component.
Perfect! This will serve you well.
 

Attachments

The Larger Saws

My goal on the Dutch tool chest was to incorporate a space for two larger saws in the design. Like Chris Schwarz's Dutch tool chests, I was determined to locate the saws on the lid, yet what I didn't like about his design was that it required ample space on both sides of the tool chest to pull the saws out. I usually don't have much space on either side. Here's his design (and notice that you can't pull that bottom saw out without running it into that workbench on the left):

Image

[source]

Here's another approach that attaches a saw to the lid:

Image

[source]

What I opted for was a design that is more similar to the one in the second picture, but with mine one can pull out the saws with no lateral space needed. But enough of that, let's get to the photos. Here are the saws attached to the lid:

Image


Here's the lid with the apparatus in place but no saws:

Image


Saw handle:

Image


The open tool chest:

Image


Obviously one of the big considerations for me was that the design had to support the saws without letting them bow when hanging upside-down, and so each of the saws are supported on each end and in the middle. Also I had to fit both saws in such a way that I could still close the lid, and it barely clears in some places by around 1/8". My first attempt had a couple of issues with this and I had to rearrange things. You'll also notice that the middle support is off-center. I did this in case I want to attach a hasp to the inside of the lid. As usual, comments and questions are welcome.

On the next blog post I'll discuss a decorative component.
nice job!
 

Attachments

The Larger Saws

My goal on the Dutch tool chest was to incorporate a space for two larger saws in the design. Like Chris Schwarz's Dutch tool chests, I was determined to locate the saws on the lid, yet what I didn't like about his design was that it required ample space on both sides of the tool chest to pull the saws out. I usually don't have much space on either side. Here's his design (and notice that you can't pull that bottom saw out without running it into that workbench on the left):

Image

[source]

Here's another approach that attaches a saw to the lid:

Image

[source]

What I opted for was a design that is more similar to the one in the second picture, but with mine one can pull out the saws with no lateral space needed. But enough of that, let's get to the photos. Here are the saws attached to the lid:

Image


Here's the lid with the apparatus in place but no saws:

Image


Saw handle:

Image


The open tool chest:

Image


Obviously one of the big considerations for me was that the design had to support the saws without letting them bow when hanging upside-down, and so each of the saws are supported on each end and in the middle. Also I had to fit both saws in such a way that I could still close the lid, and it barely clears in some places by around 1/8". My first attempt had a couple of issues with this and I had to rearrange things. You'll also notice that the middle support is off-center. I did this in case I want to attach a hasp to the inside of the lid. As usual, comments and questions are welcome.

On the next blog post I'll discuss a decorative component.
The saw solution in the lid is excellent, you should email pictures to Schwarz. Do the blade tips slide into a recess or just supported on a dado? Looks like they slide in but I can't tell for sure from the photos.
 

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The Larger Saws

My goal on the Dutch tool chest was to incorporate a space for two larger saws in the design. Like Chris Schwarz's Dutch tool chests, I was determined to locate the saws on the lid, yet what I didn't like about his design was that it required ample space on both sides of the tool chest to pull the saws out. I usually don't have much space on either side. Here's his design (and notice that you can't pull that bottom saw out without running it into that workbench on the left):

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[source]

Here's another approach that attaches a saw to the lid:

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[source]

What I opted for was a design that is more similar to the one in the second picture, but with mine one can pull out the saws with no lateral space needed. But enough of that, let's get to the photos. Here are the saws attached to the lid:

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Here's the lid with the apparatus in place but no saws:

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Saw handle:

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The open tool chest:

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Obviously one of the big considerations for me was that the design had to support the saws without letting them bow when hanging upside-down, and so each of the saws are supported on each end and in the middle. Also I had to fit both saws in such a way that I could still close the lid, and it barely clears in some places by around 1/8". My first attempt had a couple of issues with this and I had to rearrange things. You'll also notice that the middle support is off-center. I did this in case I want to attach a hasp to the inside of the lid. As usual, comments and questions are welcome.

On the next blog post I'll discuss a decorative component.
Great job. Nice tool chest!
 

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