Stanley Bailey Plane Restoration #3: No. 5, Type 18

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Blog entry by BradJacob posted 10-27-2010 06:25 PM 14252 reads 7 times favorited 27 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: No. 5-1/2 Sweetheart Part 3 of Stanley Bailey Plane Restoration series Part 4: Like any other addict.... »

Hey everyone. Last year I became interested in restoring planes. I created one project blog where I was restoring an early Type 9. Then, while working with on a wood project, the Walnut got me real sick. It took almost one month to get better, then spring came, summer, BBQ’s, band practice, life…..

Here is it fall again and I’m back in the shop restoring my planes. I got two going right now. One is the old Type 9 and the other is a Type 19 that I picked up on eBay for something like $10 bucks? This was in really rough shape – but is surprisingly turning out to be one nice plane. It’s nearly done. I only need to spray the handle with lacquer and spray the frog. When done, I’ll post the results and details of the restoration. Here are the before pictures:

Here are the pictures of my finished plane. I think it came out great! What looked like a total rusted mess actually ended up looking very “factory-new”. The bed especially came out pretty flawless. Amazingly, there was zero pitting. When I sanded the black paint off, the wood was natural – and with some lacquer, it now sports that Lee Nielsen look. One other thing I did that I didn’t see mentioned, was to use a file to clean up the edges of the bed. Going slowly and using only push-cuts, I achieved a crisp and new looking edge with a slight rolled-curve. Very happy with the results.


Here are some pictures of the bed, right after the Evaporust bath. I used Evaporust (thanks Alonso) to remove the rust and electrolysis to loosen the jappaning. That worked real well but I’ll most likely use electrolysis for everything in the future since it’s free.

The iron, chip breaker and cap were in pretty bad shape so I replaced them with some donor parts.

-- - Brad

27 comments so far

View bobdurnell's profile


315 posts in 3949 days

#1 posted 10-27-2010 07:01 PM

BradJacob—Let me be the first to say what a great job on the no.5. I have restored a few and I love the feeling it gives one when their done. Besides being useful they are restored pieces of art. I’m sorry to say that I have a few transitionals and Bailey’s around that are now decoration. bob

-- bobdurnell, Santa Ana California.

View ic3ss's profile


390 posts in 2829 days

#2 posted 10-27-2010 07:19 PM


Nice job! There’s a lot of old japanning left on the body in two of the pictures, is that before electrolysis or after? What did you paint it with? Those top wall edges are crisp, it really cleaned up good.

-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 3247 days

#3 posted 10-27-2010 07:37 PM

What a beauty. I would like to do this with my no 7 1880s one, but Im afraid it will ruin the Japanning which is perfect.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View Joe Watson's profile

Joe Watson

316 posts in 3599 days

#4 posted 10-27-2010 08:02 PM

i think that is a type 18 instead of a type 19. the diagonal hashing on the blade depth adjustment wheel is the give away. only type 18 had that machined that way. i have a type 18 btw restored it a while back. you did a much better job on yours its beautiful. just been brought back to life.

one question what did you use for the bed, paint? im curious about that i used paint and it looks great.

-- Got Wood?

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3386 days

#5 posted 10-27-2010 08:07 PM

You’re right Brad, it does have that LN look to it now. Part of that is due to the wood on the tote and handle. Are they replacements and if so, what kind of wood did you use for them? Good work!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View FirehouseWoodworking's profile


712 posts in 3325 days

#6 posted 10-27-2010 08:49 PM

Exquisitely done!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2137 posts in 3161 days

#7 posted 10-27-2010 08:55 PM

Brad, that is just a gorgeous restoration. Pat yourself on the back, that plane is a beaut and one that will be a pleasure to work with. Thanks for sharing your success.


-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View swirt's profile


2813 posts in 3024 days

#8 posted 10-27-2010 10:02 PM

That came out great. I too would like more info on what you painted the bed with.

-- Galootish log blog,

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10880 posts in 3167 days

#9 posted 10-27-2010 10:12 PM

alot of people wuold say you have overdone it with several light-years
but I most admit it looks fantasstic to me after you have gone all the way
congrat´s with your brand-new toy, may it serve you well

but more info on how you prepared and painted it wuold bee realy nice of you to give us

take care

View BradJacob's profile


36 posts in 3051 days

#10 posted 10-27-2010 11:35 PM

Thanks for the kind words guys. For the paint, I went over to my local Advanced Auto parts and picked up a can of

VHT EPOXY PAINT (satin finish) for $6.99

Here’s the steps that I did (a bit backwards because I became interested in electrolysis AFTER doing the Evaporust):

Step 1. Evoporust to remove the rust.

Step 2. Electrolysis to loosen the Jappaning. At first I was expecting it appear rubbery and loose, falling off. Not the case… Cooking that plane bed for a SOLID 24 hours using electrolysis makes the jappaning brittle and flaky. Out of frustration I took a screwdriver to it, and to my amazement, it chipped RIGHT off with a screwdriver!

3. Once paint-free, I cleaned the body with some carb-cleaner (because I didn’t have any denatured alcohol handy)
4. Taped the sides and sole accordingly (some paint the edges, I DO NOT. I happen to think it makes it look more “factory”.

5. Sprayed one coat. And I wasn’t afraid to lay it on heavy. In fact, the first coat was so thick that it filled in all the cast marks and looked like a plastic coating. Then as it dries, that goes away and you’re left with a more thin looking, crisp finish. Let sit 24 hours.

6. Repeat step 5 – another nice thick coat. Let sit 48 hours. Why? Because in 12 hours, it’ll be pretty dry to the touch, but 48-72 hours will ensure that the paint HARDENS properly.

There you have it. Any other questions, feel free to ask ;-)

-- - Brad

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10880 posts in 3167 days

#11 posted 10-27-2010 11:48 PM

thank´s Brad :-)
another question
did you thin the epoxy paint and if so with what ?


View BradJacob's profile


36 posts in 3051 days

#12 posted 10-27-2010 11:52 PM

Dennis – no thinning. Just sprayed it with the can it comes in.

-- - Brad

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10880 posts in 3167 days

#13 posted 10-27-2010 11:57 PM

thank´s I will see if we can get it here in Denmark
or a simular brand


View BradJacob's profile


36 posts in 3051 days

#14 posted 10-27-2010 11:57 PM

EDIT – I looked closely and its all correct…

-- - Brad

View canadianchips's profile


2602 posts in 3049 days

#15 posted 10-27-2010 11:59 PM

Very, very nice work. That plane is a beauty now ! I’m Proud of ya !

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

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