Look at that! #3: I filled the empty spot next to my Craftsman TS...

Don’t use that fence for resawing, use a center point fence that allows you to move the wood to follow the blade drift. Here is a post type. and this is the Kreg jig that attaches to your fence.

-- Dan-- Info for all @ http://www.hoistman.com

Yes resawing is not an easy task to perform.It takes a bit of practice I have ruined a few pieces of wood with my shaky hands .It seems no matter how much effort you take to follow the top line it wanders down below off the piece sometimes altogether.Leaving you with wedges, wedges ,wedges, just like little millhouse LOL Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

I only got part-way through the first couple vids (that eye thing…), but you might find this link useful:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/bsblddrft.html

Nice buy. Looks to be in pretty good shape, too!

Can you type out the model #? A bandsaw’s definitely my next major. I’m probably down to Delta, Rikon, or a Grizzly….

-- -- Neil

Same here.

-- Jim LaCourse

I have a Griz band saw. I made a resaw blade from a copper tube screwed to a sacrficial fence. It works great. I would recommend that you try that before buying a jig that may not work. Having your bandsaw well tuned helps a bunch too.

-- Jim, Richmond Virginia

I can’t find the post now but some time in the last day or so I read a post by someone who was of the opinion that a properly tuned band saw would eliminate blade drift. I found this remarkable and the only time I have ever heard anyone make such a claim. I have found that beyond a sharp blade that a center point guide is the most helpful method for resawing (although I know others successfully use the method demonstrated in NBeener’s link).

-- criticism: the art of analyzing and evaluating the quality of a artistic work...

I resaw 6” boards for almost every project at one point or another using almost the exact saw.

I had similar horrible results until I did a few things:

A. Buy the right blade! A 1/2” or wider 3tpi skip tooth is MANDATORY….A woodslicer or timberwolf brand, in that order.

B. Forget further steps until you have A!

C. Install your 1/2” blade and set tension for 3/4” or at LEAST halfway to that mark.

D. Replace stock guides with nylon or bearings. Set them properly….for nylons or other material, use a sheet of thin magazine paper on each side of the blade. Bearings should just touch blade, see manuf. directions.

E. Set rear bearings to 1/64” or to where it spins just occasionally when saw is idle.

F. Set fence for drift. See google for this, its VERY simple.

That’s it….if you do all of that, you will have good results….it’s not magic.

As for fences….most craftsmen I see use tall 3-6” fences, as do I….those point type fences are finicky (I have the Kreg one and never use it) and I find you get MUCH more wavy cuts and wasted material than a standard fence (I use a Kreg, but even a shopmade MDF 4” fence will do fine as long as it’s drift correctable).

Your feed rate is good (don’t stop unless you get drift or burning), the saw sounds ok and you’re right about feeding from the middle or top. The only thing I do different on the featherboard is elevate it a couple inches so that the top of the board doesn’t waver…..

Good luck…..oh and did I mention to get the right blade? :) Seriously, I know you might think that a small change like a different brand or tooth type is BS, but it’s #1 here for a reason…..

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

Oh, and detension the blade between cuts! Also, thumbs up on Beeners link….

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

it could be saw dust in the berrings

-- kosta brownsville brooklyn my home