A slight variation on Shipwright hinges
Shipwright showed how to make these cool integral wooden hinges for a box in this tutorial. http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/23989 I liked them a lot but it required planning ahead and cutting the hinge features in the back of the box before assembly. I wanted to be able to assemble a box and cut the lid off with the tablesaw and have the choice of making an integral hinge or using brass hinges later so I developed this slight variation.
An example of the finished hinge is this project. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/103741
This was the second box I'd made this way, and I'm going to use some pictures from the other box in this description.
The stock I started with was this walnut
I first made a continuous grain spline reinforced box with the top and bottom set into grooves in the sides, then cut on all sides with the tablesaw to remove the lid. Now to start making the hinge.
The structure of the components that make up the hinge can be seen in this drawing. The horizonal line that runs through the brass rod is at the parting line between the box base and the lid and is a glue joint between the box back material and the semicircular segments that get glued in.
The first step is to make the groove that will receive the brass rod. After cutting the lid free of the box bottom with the tablesaw, I set up a couple of stop blocks on the router table fence and use a 1/8" diameter round veining bit to make stopped grooves that run the length of the back of both the lid and box base, but stop 1/2" from the ends of the box. Then divide the back of the box into an odd number of segments with vertical lines. Mark the waste and use a handsaw to cut on the lines to a depth of 1/4" from the lid parting line. I then use the tablesaw to nibble away the waste between the handsaw cuts and clean up with a chisel. Cut the 1/8" diameter brass rod to length and the box is at this stage.
All that remains is to make and cut the semicircular cap sections to length and glue them in to enclose the brass rod. I use a 1/4" radius roundover bit in the router to make one edge of a piece of 1/2" stock have a round profile, then cut that round edge free to a width of 1/4". Then I use the same 1/8" veining bit and stop blocks to make stopped grooves in the flat edge of the cap stock. I make stopped grooves because I'll use the part where the groove ends at the ends of the box. The cap stock is visible in this photo.
Cut segments of the cap stock to length and glue it in place to enclose the brass rod and the hinge is done.
The finished hinge looks like this. A nice feature of making the hinge this way is that it stops at about 95 degrees.
Shipwright showed how to make these cool integral wooden hinges for a box in this tutorial. http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/23989 I liked them a lot but it required planning ahead and cutting the hinge features in the back of the box before assembly. I wanted to be able to assemble a box and cut the lid off with the tablesaw and have the choice of making an integral hinge or using brass hinges later so I developed this slight variation.
An example of the finished hinge is this project. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/103741
This was the second box I'd made this way, and I'm going to use some pictures from the other box in this description.
The stock I started with was this walnut
I first made a continuous grain spline reinforced box with the top and bottom set into grooves in the sides, then cut on all sides with the tablesaw to remove the lid. Now to start making the hinge.
The structure of the components that make up the hinge can be seen in this drawing. The horizonal line that runs through the brass rod is at the parting line between the box base and the lid and is a glue joint between the box back material and the semicircular segments that get glued in.
The first step is to make the groove that will receive the brass rod. After cutting the lid free of the box bottom with the tablesaw, I set up a couple of stop blocks on the router table fence and use a 1/8" diameter round veining bit to make stopped grooves that run the length of the back of both the lid and box base, but stop 1/2" from the ends of the box. Then divide the back of the box into an odd number of segments with vertical lines. Mark the waste and use a handsaw to cut on the lines to a depth of 1/4" from the lid parting line. I then use the tablesaw to nibble away the waste between the handsaw cuts and clean up with a chisel. Cut the 1/8" diameter brass rod to length and the box is at this stage.
All that remains is to make and cut the semicircular cap sections to length and glue them in to enclose the brass rod. I use a 1/4" radius roundover bit in the router to make one edge of a piece of 1/2" stock have a round profile, then cut that round edge free to a width of 1/4". Then I use the same 1/8" veining bit and stop blocks to make stopped grooves in the flat edge of the cap stock. I make stopped grooves because I'll use the part where the groove ends at the ends of the box. The cap stock is visible in this photo.
Cut segments of the cap stock to length and glue it in place to enclose the brass rod and the hinge is done.
The finished hinge looks like this. A nice feature of making the hinge this way is that it stops at about 95 degrees.