I brought these home and let them dry out for a week and then using the same plywood fence idea ran
them through my bandsaw.

This gave me some timbers that needed smoothing, but since I had made them roughly tapered, I could
not run them through the planer, I tried to use my slick.

Since trying to sand this fresh wood only gives you plugged up sand paper on the belt sander, the slick
helped a little, but I had to use my draw knives to get a smooth surface. I used a copper treatment on
the bottom of the posts to prevent rot and notched the top of the posts to support the deck and
provide a support post for the railing
.

The pieces I cut out for the notch will be used as guard posts in between the support posts. Finding
good deck wood is difficult, so I l am waiting for a local sawmill to run some fir dimension wood so I can
get select grade wood for the deck. I did use trek for my front deck, but wanted to use real wood on
this back one. I may not be smart, but I sure am stingy. I am also unable to control my urge to work
instead of taking pictures of what I am doing most of the time.

The saw did run, but the noise indicated that the bearings in both the saw and motor were bad, I tore
the saw and motor down enough to get the bearing numbers and buy new bearings. The saw had the
original New Departure 87503 bearings which had an offset inner race and could be ordered for between
$30 to $40 apiece. They measure the same 40mm OD X 17mmID X 12mmW race as the new 62032
bearing. To take care of the offset inner race difference, I bought a 14 guage 5/8” machine bushing
and turned the ID to 17mm and placed it beside the spacer between the inner races in the saw arbor
and put the arbor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart. To set the preload on the
arbor I tightened up the inside spanner nut the same way you set the preload on front wheel bearings
when repacking them. Tighten the nut until you have no side play on the bearings and the bearings
are starting to drag slightly. This trick worked on the Unisaw arbors back when they started replacing
the replacement bearings with a cartridge pack that cost way more than the bearings did, and should
still work today. If you want a picture of this set up your can look at this publication http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3643.pdf . Page 5 shows it.

The electric motor also used the 62032 bearings, but when I tore it all the way down the armature
shaft was worn so bad that the bearing tilted back and forth, if the wear had not been so bad I might
have tried some Loctite stud and bearing mount to tighten it up, but on a 3450 rpm motor, just a
slight out of roundness would have wore the bearings out in short order. Having a 1 HP motor of the
same rpm that I had acquired a while back I was not too worried. It just needed an adapter plated to
mount it on the saws mounting plate. This would be easier than making an adapter plate to bolt a
57 Oldsmobile J2 tri-carb motor up to a 33 Ford sedan’s transmission.

The first picture shows the flat head socket head capscrews countersunk into the plate and holding
one side of the adapter plated to motor, the second picture shows the special bolts made from the
head of 3/8” flat head sleeve anchor heads with 5/16” socket head set screws threaded in and
held in place with Loctite stud and bearing mount. These were countersunk into the back of the
plate and will bolt the plate to the saw motor mount, the allen wrench opening in the set screw
will allow me to tighten and loosen the nut holding the plate to the mount. Nothing worse than
not being able to take something apart once you put it together. Regular bolts through the other
two holes in the plate bolt the adapter and motor to the saw mount.

This gets the saw almost ready to run, but I decided to replace the old plywood on the stand and
set the saw lengthways on the stand at the same time, as well as add a dust collection port under
the saw. I removed the front plate on the stand and replaced it with a couple of pieces of tubing
and added a plywood shelf for storage. I then installed and wired a paddle switch on the right side
of the stand to make the saw safer to operate.

The metal on this stand was almost 1/16” of an inch thick, so I grabbed my metal cutting skil saw
and cut an opening in the back so I could access the dust collection port.

The old plate covering the saw blade had been ridden hard and put away wet, so I made a zero
clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board I had, and made two spares.

As you can see from this picture, there are four tabs sticking out of the opening that were used to
level the old table insert. I drilled 4 holes in the plastic, and only ran the tap part way through the
holes, the 5/6” X 18TPI X 3/8” long socket set screws thread down through the holes and the
partially tapped holes as a nylock to hold them firmly in place. You can access them from the
top and level the plate with ease. On the back of the saw opening there was another lip sticking
out, so I cut a piece of oak with a slot to hook under this lip when inserting the plate into the saw.
This holds the plate securely in place when I crank the Freud Diablo thin kerf blade up through the
plate as shown .

I will be making one more zero clearance plate with a riving knife secured into it later. The miter gage
that came with the saw was held to the bar with a wierd flat head shoulder bolt that was loose because
of wear, and the fact that the 8-32 thread on the end of the bolt had been twisted off in the gage. I
got lucky and my left hand drill bit spun the broken part out with no trouble, I then drilled and counter-
sunk the bar for a flat head socket head capscrew, and drilled and threaded the gage for the 1/4-20
thread. This tightened up the miter guage, and a socket set screw in the back of the guage will keep
it from coming loose. The mounting bars for the fence had become bent and beat up over the years,
so I cut them off just beyond the table.

The manual for this saw shows a splitter attachment and guards, while I doubt these parts are still
available, I might try to make them myself. This saw was designed to be used with both dado blades
and molding cutter heads. I just have to make some bowl segment sleds for this saw and it will
become my specialized bowl saw. I am going to have to improve the dust collection, and add some
casters, but I think this saw was well worth my $30 and the work I put into it. If nothing else, it
did keep me off the street corners and out of trouble for a while.

I know this saw does not look nice and shiny and new, but it suits both me and my shop, slightly
old and worn, but still working and having fun. Here is a shot of my other hobby, bird watching.

These mallards and wood ducks seem to think our lawn is their new home, along with pigeons, fool
hens and red winged blackbirds.

slot in the plywood stopping when I was in the middle of the plywood. I shut the saw off and backed
the plywood out, then used a wood bit to drill a hole with edge above and just touching the end of
the slot so I would be able to tilt the table without the saw blade binding in the jig.

I then placed the end of the wood track in the guage slot and starting up the bandsaw I cut a

in the plywood on my router table centered in the middle of the plywood. I stopped by the box store
and picked up a genuine made in USA plastic cutting board and used a hole saw to cut two circles
that would be centered over the t-track and each end of the track. I used a jig saw to connect the
two holes and remove the material in the middle. This took care of the body of the jig, now I needed
a pivot point. I had an old butterfly bolt used to draw countertop mitre corners together and the
oblong threaded nut from it just fit into the t-track. I needed a 1/4” ID by 1/2” OD bushing that would
fasten over the track and be held down by the nut and a flathead socket head capscrew. I only needed
one that was 1/4” thick, but had to buy one that was longer.

I messed up a couple of pictures, so this next picture shows the t-track placed in the slot I routed

This is the best I could do on this picture, I used a machinist chuck and a drill chuck in my tailstock to
drill a counter sink in one end of the bushing. This next picture show me turning the end of the
bushing back to 1/2” after the countersink had flared it out. I also used this compound slide rest to
trim the bushing to length.

I used a 1/4-20 by 7/16” flathead socket head capscrew to fasten the bushing to the track. The
1/4-20 bolt has a 5/32” hex the same size that the Shopsmith uses on its tools, so I only need one
hex key when using this jig.

This picture shows the bushing and the holding plate that will fit over the bushing. I cut the round
plates out of a scrap piece of 1/4” scrap I had available using a Lenox 3” bimetal hole saw, these hole
saws can be used in either metal or wood. I then drilled a 1/2” hole the plate and made sure the
bushing and the plate had a close fit, but could still move freely. I now need a way to hold my wood
to these plates.

This is the completed clamp. The right angle was a piece of 3/16” X1-1/2” X 2” angle iron I cut about
1” long and drilled a 5/16” hole in the center of the 2” part about 3/16” from the other leg. This acts
as the clamping pivot. I needed a knob to tighten the clamp so I used a 2” holesaw to cut a couple
of circles from some scrap, now you and Stumpy know why I can not throw anything out.

This shows the wood after I turned the knob and am drilling it for a 1/4-20 X 3/4” long E-Z Lok flanged
insert. To allow the clamp to hold the wood, I cut a 2” length of tube from my road bicycle, mountain
bike tubes are too big, and folded the tube back and forth over the end of the clamping arm. As you
can see from this next picture I drilled a hole too close to the edge of my disc.

I then had to drill one centered half the way between the edge and center and countersink it for the
clamp to work properly. The screw I used for the clamp is a 1/4-20 X 2-1/2” flat head socket head cap
screw. Before you drill the hole for the clamping screw, scribe a line through the middle of the hole
and center of disc, then scribe another at right angles to this line across the disc. This second line is
the one you will line up with the edge of the half circle board you will be cutting, the first line you will
line up with the center of the board. I placed a piece of double stick tape over part of the disc the wood would be fastened to before I centered the wood and clamped it down, between the tape and the
clamp the wood stays securely fastened.

Here is a picture of the jig in action, and here is a picture the completed cuts.

This shows the reason for needing two clamps and making the discs easy to remove and insert
with accuracy. You determine the width of the bowl rings you wish to cut and measure and mark
these distances out starting on the outside of the wood. Then you use a square and run the
lines down the face you will be starting your cut on.

As shown in this picture you then draw a line from the top of one line to the bottom of the second
line. This gives you the angle you need to cut. Place this piece of wood on your bandsaw table and
tilt the blade until the blade is aligned with the angle mark. Clamp the table in place, clamp your
two half pieces to the plates being sure they are lined up with your scribe marks, clamp the jig to
the band saw table after sliding the jig over the blade. Then line up your saw with the first angle
cut and cut both half circles before you adjust the jig for the second cut and proceed until you are
finished. If you do not want to use steel, I have found that corian countertop sections will also work,
but with the plastic cutting board being 5/16” thick, the steel plates with the double stick tape came
out flush with the top of the plastic. I have been fighting posting the pictures for a few weeks because
my old computer setup got wiped out by a virus and I had to learn a whole new system. I have not
even tried to master sketchup, and my plans are mostly in my head and a few pieces of scratch paper.
If anyone has questions I will try to answer them. I am in the process of making a better jig that will
include a ruler along the edge of the t-track that will make adjusting the pivot point easier, for now, I
just measure the distance I need to move the pivot in relation to the blade loosen the screw measure
and move until it is where it needs to be. Thank you for looking.

There are a couple of places where the first line in a paragraph came out below the paragraph, but when
I check the original it reads correctly, so chalk it up to age or April 1st.

The biggest measures 21” long by 2” wide and is stamped L & IJ WHITE 1837 Buffalo, NY
the middle one measures 16-1/2” long by 1-1/2” wide and the tang is stamped Mfd by UNION HARDWARE
TORRINGTON CONN USA
The smallest is 13-3/8” X 13/16” with no name on it.
If these had long handles, they would be called timber slicks, but since the have short handles reinforced
for hammers they are timber chisels. Now I am going to have to clean them up and take care of them.
Underneath the lathe on a shelf was this

do not recognize it, try this picture

Ok try this one

A genuine Delta sanding table for my new 1953 Delta lathe, I had to make an adapter plate to
raise the table up to the correct height for my 12” lathe, and make a mounting bracket. It came
with two face plates and so I had to go buy sanding discss, one rough and one fine, and as you
can see I had to try it out, it even came with an eraser to clean off the discs which I will do before
I use it again.

I did swap the lathe to my friend for a small 30 lb 1 HP electric motor that I had been trying to talk
him out of for a while, so we both came out ahead except for the $25 Ariens rototiller that I will
not show here since it is not related to woodworking. All I had to do was fix the spark plug wire and
install a new square O ring on the sediment bowl and I got to rototill the wife’s flower garden with
her new rototiller, just because I did a good deed for a friend, and I did not even get to charge him
a beer for the delivery of his lathe.

I wonder if I can adapt a velcro system to those sanding discs?

This is a picture of a green wood maple bowl I rough turned on my lathe, and here is a second one.

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j477/Bluepine38/greenbowl1.jpg!

front view

The first bowl was placed in the bottom half of a bowl of sawdust the the second in the top half. Both
bowls dried without and cracks and only slight warping. I checked the top one a few times during the
roughly two years, since I had placed them in the barrel previous to this post, and it dried with some
spalting, but was still rather solid. The first bowl that was placed in the bottom half of the barrel was
not disturbed until I took it out to turn it, and while the sawdust had allowed it to dry without cracking,
it had held enough moisture that the wood was rather soft and it was hard to turn to a smooth finish.
The result is that you can dry green turned bowls in sawdust, but you do have to check them every
month or so at first placing fresh sawdust around them to keep them from spalting too much or rotting
slightly. Do not know if this will help anyone, but i mentioned in the original blog that I would report my
results.

A short chunk of bandsaw blade 8” by 4’ and some 23” table saw blades, no these are not from my
shop, my oldest daughter Mari is a saw filer at Pyramid Lumber and these are worn out cast offs.
First I cut off strips with an abrasive cut off blade in my grinder, then I rough shape them with the
same blade. Then to the belt and disc sander to further refine the shape and put a rough edge on
the blade. I found that I can not drill through the bandsaw blade, so I have to heat it up and punch
my holes I then used juniper wood and 3/16 brass rod to form the handles and rivets. All this was
epoxied together and rough shaped on the grinder, then hand finished to fit my hand.

These two knives are my basic carving knives. I needed something to carve spoon bowls, so I decided
to try making some curved blades for cutting the bowls.

You can see how the knives fit my hand, I use my fingers and palms to do most of the gripping. These
knives work great for shallow curved cuts and scraping surfaces smooth, but do not make it easy to
do deeper cuts. I decided I needed a curved gouge. This was formed by heating and beating the
strap of metal into half pipe using a piece of 1/2” black pipe to form the curve and then rolling one
half of the blade into a circle and using epoxy to secure into a hole in a piece of sugar maple for a
handle. Here is a picture of the gouge and a man in the spoon made with the carving knives.

These knives were sharpened on a 3m scotchbrite wheel and the stropping wheel shown here.

I can not get a shaving edge on the knives yet, but give me another year or two. I am in no
hurry. Thank you for looking. Here is a picture of the gouge in action, it works similar to the old
spoon bits of yesterday.

First he carefully drew the outline, then he had to cut it out.

Then he carefully sanded, after I took the pictures, I would assist him with the operation of all machinery.

When it was assembled and primed, his mother, my grandaughter Amber came out and assisted him with
the painting.

It was painted red and then we assembled and painted my pattern chair green for his older sister, Lily.
Girls are not allowed in his workshop. Mothers as we all know are exempt from all such rules because they
make cookies. We were a little too busy to take all the pictures and then a ham handed great grandfather
deleted some of them. One of these days when I am not busy I will clean up the shop and organize it.

This picture shows the coupling nut parted at 2” with a 3/8” locknut. I cut a 2-1/4” length of 1”x 8TPI
allthread and threaded one end into the coupling nut after coating it with stud and bearing mount Loctite.
I then drilled a 1/4” hole 1/4” in from the end of the coupling nut through the coupling nut and the all
thread and inserted a 1/4” X1-1/4” tension pin, this locks the two parts securely. I then mounted the
scotch brite wheel between two 7/8” flat cut washers with the center reamed out to 1”.

The scotchbrite wheel leaves a sharp and smooth edge, but it could be improved, so I turned a wooden
wheel from 2 laminated pieces of maple and cut a 1” mounting hole with a recess on each side. I made
a second coupling nut adapter, and will glue a leather strap around the exterior and treat it with some
green strop honing compound to make a strop wheel. I have a cloth fiber buffing wheel accessory that
came with the lathe, but I think a leather strop will work better.

If these wheels keep working , I will order some left hand coupling nuts and make some adapters for the
outboard arbor and will be able to sharpen and hone knives and turning tools on my lathe without
interrupting my turning. As you can see from the background, keeping my shop spotless is not real high
on my list of priorities.

Since the extension plate has to slide to the proper length, I could not mount guides to line it up with the
lathe bed, so it has to aligned manually with a square. The parting tool takes about 3/16” of an inch out
of the board, so you can not cut it at 45 degrees as you would on a scroll saw you set the upper slide rest
at 43 degrees for pine and 42 degrees for hardwood.

You make your first cut on the outside diameter of the board to true up the circle and get the angle for
the bowl, then you measure in the thickness of the board from you first cut and set the outside of your
parting tool on the mark using the bottom slide rest, which moves at right angles to the lathe bed, then
start the lathe and cranking the upper slide rest cut the ring from the board. As you get closer to the lathe center the adapter is removed and the rest is mounted directly
to the lathe bed as shown in the last picture.
You continue to cut rings until you are too close to the mounting plate to make any more rings and you are
ready to stack and glue the rings as shown in this photo.

If you glue strips of contrasting hardwood together and make a smooth board, you can part off the rings
and then rotate them to make bowls like this.

If I am havilng a bad arthritis day, I can insert a special tool holder with a special ground cutting tool in
the compound slide rest as using both cranks at once I can cut bowls.
I acquired the compound slide rest in 2010 and Armstrong tool quit making the tool holders for the lantern
and rocker tool posts in 2005. Grizzly tool sells tool holders that will fit if you take a piece of 9/16” square
tool stock and cut a right angle shim that sets above and beside the tool holder to clamp it firmly in place.
If anyone is interested, i can do a blog on the rebuild of the Compound slide rest. There are compound
slide rests available from Grizzly and other places that can be adapted to a wood lathe for anyone that
might be interested. As far as I know, no one is manufacturing a compound slide rest for wood lathes.

The mantle, its supports and the two side shelves are 8/4 Cherry that I happened to have in the shop. The
rock was reused from the original tear out. The portrait is my father painted by my cousin. I gave him a
picture of dad at 70, but he remembered him at 65, so that is what he painted. The little gentleman on
the burro in the lower left hand corner is my hero Pedro whom I have had for several decades. Since I can
am like Pogo “the laziest person alive, but people just will not give me a chance to prove it.” He has to do
all my loafing for me, but one of these days I will catch up. I added the special lighting above the portrait, the
box is also cherry, with a row of upward slanting cooling holes in case someone replaces the lamps with some
that are not cool. I still have to get the oak to build a small hardwood floor to cover the area that was covered
by the original hearth, but other than that it is finished

As ever, Gus the 71 year young laborer trying to become an apprentice carpenter.

The shaper was made to use either a 1/2 or 3/4 HP electric motor, the original misguided owner decided to make
it heavy duty by using a 1 HP motor. The base of the motor was too big for the shaper motor mount, so Rube
Goldberg just bought some longer bolts and bolted it on with the drive shaft setting at about 10 degrees from
being parallel with the driven shaft. This resulted in the height adjustment on the spindle being unusable and
the spindle rusting in place. I pressed the Spindle out of the mount, cleaned it up and rebuilt the badly chewed
up end and turned it down to hold a new driven pulley that I drilled and tapped to hold two extra set screws in
the bottom of the v groove. The set screws are equally spaced 1/3 of the diameter around the pulley. Here is
a picture of adapter plated that I bolted to the mount and motor to get the two shafts parallel. I always knew that building adapter plates to bolt a 33 Ford Sedan transmission to a J27 Oldsmobile V8 with a
tri carb set up would help me in the future.

The large flat drive pulley allows the belt to ride up and down on the pulley as you raise and lower the spindle
with the cutting heads to adjust your cutting height. I built a dust collection chute to hook up to my
home built dust collection system on the 4” connection. I left the original switch on the motor, just added a
new three wire cord to replace old two wire relic.

I took the old stand apart and repainted it, used new fasteners and used some laminated lumber I had
for a shaper mounting base and made a shelf out of plywood edged with some two by four pine I had
laying around. I added wheels to make it movable and have not added the levelling feet yet. The wood
is finished in BLO. I put new bearings in the spindle and refinished the two faces on the individually
adjusted halves of the fence with BLO. I have sharpened the cutting heads, and may add a few more and
use it to replace some of my router table tasks. I spent about $75.00 total and about 40 hours of play
on this project and since my better half has informed me I have spent more time working on tools than
using them, and have not done much except tear out my old cast iron fireplace and 5 X 6 foot rock hearth,
with the 6 X 8 FT back wall and 3 ft dividing wall and replace it with a new built in fireplace with cherry
mantle. I should maybe quit playing and go back to work.

As ever, Gus the 71 year young laborer trying to become an apprentice carpenter.

I only had a serial no. 2-561 on it, no Model number, but it resembled the model 37-307 (old style) 6” jointer
without the stand. The plywood stand was in sad shape and the motor was enclosed by the plywood and was
so full of sawdust that no more would fit in. I replaced the electric motor and cutter head bearings and built
this dust chute and steel base, cutting the steel with a special steel cutting skil type saw.

The steel base was neeed because I used 2” thick pine beetle killed wood for the base and need to spread
the weight over the entire top. I added a belt guard and a shaft guard to the unused motor shaft end, since
I have the occasional grand kid and great-grandkid roaming through the shop.

The motor was not heavy enough to tension the new belt, so I added a spring belt tensioner and a switch
to replace the missing switch on the motor.

I finished the stand in BLO and sprayed some food safe silicon on the metal to protect it. I left the original
paint job on the jointer, since it resembles me, a little old ,well used and still good for some more woodworking.
The cost of this rebuild, including purchase, belt, new driven pulley, steel and bolts was about $100.00. I
spent about 30 hours playing with this project ( I would be lying if i called it work, it was too much fun) and
I now have a jointer that is much better than the shopsmith one that I will be selling on Ebay. I added the
wheels to move it around my crowded shop and two pieces of all thread with wing nuts as levelers for the
uneven floor.

As ever, Gus the 71 yr young laborer, trying to become a woodworker.