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Chop Saw Dust Hood

163K views 73 replies 36 participants last post by  Bern50  
#1 · (Edited)
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This is no longer in the format I originally created it in as far as I can tell. And I've heard that people are having trouble seeing the pictures here on Lumberjocks. So here is a link to these 7 blog segments captured in PDF form pictures intact and as how it looked when I created this blog.
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Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
 
#2 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Looks good curt
 
#3 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Looks like that will work, chop saw is the hardest tool to collect dust for, there is always all kinds of it behind my saw.
 
#4 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Nice work Curt. I need to make one for my saw.
Patrick - Milwaukee
 
#5 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Hi BlankMan. Nice hood. I know what you mean about the dust from the miter saw. Mine was the dirtiest tool in the shop. I always had to sweep up about 4" of dust behind it. I was going to post mine too when I get some pictures.

Great Job!!!!!!!!!! Necessity is the mother of invention.
 
#6 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Thanks for the inspiration!
 
#7 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
The picture links are no longer active. I'd love to see them. I watched the video of the dust collector working, and I'd like to see more.

Thanks!
 
#8 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
oldartie, yeah, thanks for the report. Went to the dark side, switched to AT&T as a internet provider over the weekend, they're interpretation of static IP configuration and no ports blocked differs from the definition that the rest of the world uses. Pretty much expected this was going to happen based on previous dealings with Ameritch, SBC, and now AT&T, the name may change but their core operation hasn't, they are challenged to no end to get it right, very seldom the first time… Yesterday most things were working, today they're not, there's always tomorrow I guess. Last night they fixed one thing, looks like they broke two others (that I am aware of) that were working, one being port 80 ergo no access to the web server hence no pictures…

Check back every so often, working on resolving this…
 
#9 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Well, I think the picture problems have been resolved hopefully for good. If they disappear again I'd definitely like to hear.
 
#10 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
What happened to the pictures ? Not very usefull withoutb pictures…
 
#11 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Do have a rough set of dimensions of the side piece? Trying to puzzle out a few things but my spatial sense is not so good. 3
Adapting your design to a DW735 and my vent system comes from below. Trying to determine the best fix fro that as well.. It is the best i have seen
 
#12 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Thanks. The dimensions were governed strictly by where it had to fit. If you look at Part 6 of the blog you can see it had to fit between two machines and under a shelf. So I don't know that my dimensions would be the best for you but I'll measure it if you like. Make it big to cover the swing of the saw and high as you can. I had to cut out it's top so to clear the saw and allow it to swivel because I couldn't go taller then the saw due of the shelf. The slope of the back is 15 degrees I think so that the sawdust would hit it and angle down towards the suction.
 
#13 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Where do you attach the suction for the hood? I did not see it in any pictures.
 
#14 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
Brad, there's a picture in Part 3 of this blog showing the port glued in place (the black thing) and of it connected in Part 7.
 
#15 ·
Top, middle rail, and back glued in place

Well Sunday I finally got around to start building a new dust collection hood for behind my new miter saw. I had one behind my old miter saw but this new saw is wider and I had to redo the bench for it to fit thus making the old hood too small to cover the area needed. Been without one for about a year because I also picked up the Delta 12" RAS and had to redo the bench for that to fit also. So I wasn't about to build a hood until both the RAS and miter saw were firmly mounted in place. The hood is 28-1/2" wide and ~19" tall made out of Baltic birch plywood. It's wide enough to cover capturing the sawdust even when the saw is at 45 degrees in either direction. If all goes well I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Then I'll vacuum up all the sawdust that has accumulated behind the bench one last time and put it in place.

Front view with the top and middle divider rail glued and clamped in place.
Image


Side view of the same glue up.
Image


Picture of the middle rail and dado on the side on a 15 degree angle that continues down on the inside for the back. Once the back is in place there will be a 1/2" high opening from the benchtop along the full 27" inside width that will hopefully suck up the sawdust.
Image


Front view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image


Side view of the back glued and clamped into place.
Image
I cannot see any pics. Can you possibly send me the pics to my email.account at: cid407@gmail.com
 
#16 ·
Top & Bottom of the Plenum Box Added

Now I've added the top and bottom to the plenum box in the back of the collection hood. The idea of the plenum box is to equally distribute the vacuum along the whole length of the opening to collect the sawdust. The 4" duct will connect to the top of the box, inside the plenum 2/3 down from the top is a divider board that splits the box into two chambers. The divider board has three holes in it, a 2-1/4" hole in the middle and two 2-3/8" holes one at each end. What I am hoping this will do is evenly distribute the vacuum in the lower chamber which then has the opening along the bench top to collect the sawdust.

I went to this trouble due to the performance of my previous dust collection hood that I had behind my old chop saw. That one had the 4" duct connected on the left end coming in horizontally. What happened was that the dust collection was good on the left side but at the right side of the hood it was not good at all and sawdust would collect in the bottom at the right side and never get sucked out.

The divider board will allow me to experiment to get the best performance collecting the sawdust by changing the hole sizes and hole locations. All I have to do is make a different board with different hole sizes and/or locations and slide it in. There are also two dadoes along the entire circumference on the inside of the plenum including the back cover that hold the divider board in place. These two dadoes will allow me to try the divider board at different heights thus altering the size of each of the two chamber.

These particular hole sizes where chosen for the first attempt because the sum of their area is equal to the area of the 4" duct that will connect to it. A 4" duct is around 12.5 sq.inches, the two 2-3/8" holes are about 4.4 sq. inches each and the 2-1/4" hole is about 4 sq. inches so that comes to 12.8 sq. inches. This was also why I made the opening 1/2" high. That opening's length is 27" so it's area is 13.5 sq. inches. I'm hoping that by keeping these areas near the capacity of the 4" duct that will help the performance by keeping the vacuum constant.

The hood upside down showing the bottom of the plenum box glued and clamped in place. This bottom cover of the plenum box hangs over the back of the bench thus the bottom of the opening to collect the sawdust will be flush with the top of the bench.
Image


The plenum divider board in place.
Image


Top of the plenum box glued and clamped in place.
Image
 
#17 ·
Blankman, I will be watching this blog for all entries. I am in process of gettin my shop in order and was wondering what would work for the miter station. I watched New Yankee Norm cut a circular hole beneath the chop saw but did not really like that idea, although he said it did work. Keep the pix coming.
 
#25 ·
Outlet & Saw Swivel Clearance

Well, I didn't get to spend as much time over the 4 day Thanksgiving Holiday weekend as I wanted to working on this but I made some progress. I was actually hoping to have it done but not having the time and having to determine and make the template to do the cutout for the saw swivel clearance took a while. The cutout is not a continuous arc of the same radius because you need clearance for the guard here, the handle there and then the motor. And determining where to put the outlet was not a piece of cake either. When the hood is in place against the wall I can't get behind there nor see back there very well let alone measure. The pipe it will connect to is only 2" above the top of the outlet so I didn't have a lot of room to error that the hose could make up for. So I've got the outlet connection installed and I have the clearance for the saw cut in the top.

Oh, and, while I was working on the template for the swivel clearance I had the hood and chop saw in place on the bench so I hooked it up (that was not easy either) and did some test cuts. The distribution of the vacuum across the entire 27" was good. The sawdust was sucked up along the whole length and when I ran my hand along it to feel the suction if felt pretty even. When this is all done and permanently in place I'll do a video of it for people to see its performance. It's looking like the plenum chamber and the divider board idea paid off.

Here's the outlet glued in place. The clamps are holding a board with masking tape on it under the outlet to hold it in place while the glue dries. The outlet is a 4" connector used to splice two sections of hose together that I had laying around. I cut it off 3/4" past the point where the hose slides onto. I used a 4-1/8" hole saw to cut the opening for it and glued it in place using plumbers PVC glue. I've used this glue in the past on other hoods and it bonds the plastic to the wood very well. Unfortunately my PVC glue was rather old I found out when I went to do this, it was kind of thick and the stores were closed so I used it. It did seem to bond well after letting it dry overnight but just to be sure once it dried I ran a bead of 5-minute epoxy around the top and bottom.
Image


Here's the template I made to do the cutout for the saw swivel clearance clamped in place. I roughed it out with a jig saw then used a top bearing flush trim bit on my laminate trim router to clean it up.
Image
 
#28 ·
Plumbing To Connect The Chop Saw's Dust Port

Well I got sidetracked restoring the Jet sander but did spend time on this while working on that in between waiting for parts. I cut out the circle for the saw swivel clearance like six times. There was really no good way to measure it and get it right the first time because like I said with the blade guard, handle, and motor, the cutout is closer to half a teardrop then a circle. So I'd put the hood in place, put the saw in place, and see where it bound or was too close and cut it bigger. Well I finally got it right and now have a 1/4" clearance from the blade guard, handle, and motor at any point from 47 degrees left to 47 degrees right.

So I moved on and installed the pipe and elbow that will allow me to connect to the dust collector port that is behind the blade on the chop saw. Delta supplies a bag with the saw that normally connects there but I'm not going to use that so I figured I'd connect a hose to it. That was a bit of a problem in and of itself because I had to find an 1-3/4" ID hose and I found out that size is not readily available. I found it at Grainger and DrillSpot.com. I could use my friends account at Grainger but didn't feel like doing that so I ordered it from DrillSpot.com. To my surprise when it arrived today, it came from Grainger so DrillSpot.com must have some agreement with Grainger. Ordered it yesterday, got it today. I like that.

I also spent a lot of time sanding, due to my laziness with gluing it up. I normally use blue tape on the glue joints where the glue can squeeze out. But this time I didn't. When I did the dry fit I scribed a line with a pencil and used the line to mark where to spread the glue. Well now that it's all together you could see those pencil lines. Not a big deal if I where going to paint this but I'm just going to poly it. I like the look of the Baltic Birch so I don't want to cover it with paint. Well that meant I have to remove the pencil lines. Not an easy task when they're right in the corners.

So I tried my PC profile sander, didn't work well and just barely could get in there. And the paper would wear through quickly and then I'd get black streaks from the rubber of the 90 degree profile attachment. So a scraper, foam sanding blocks. sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease the last two days. Oh I found some 3M foam sanding blocks that had a 15 degree bevel on the edge that made getting in the 90 a bit easier.There was also a thin layer of squeezed out glue which added to the difficulty before I could get at the pencil line. I will never do that again, scribe a pencil line, blue tape from now on, no laziness.

Oh, in order to drill the hole for the pipe into the plenum chamber I had to make a template for the hole because it enters the top at a 15 degree angle. So I used a 1-7/8" hole saw and cut a hole in a 2Ă—8 and then cut a 15 degree bevel on it on the table saw. I then clamped it in place and used it as a guide for the hole saw with its drill bit removed.

And the other hole you see is not a mistake, that is where the plastic insert for the cord will go.

Template clamped in place.
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Side view of template showing the 15 degree angle.
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Side view of template showing the drill and hole saw ready to go.
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Pipe installed, glued, and clamped.
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#40 ·
Installed!

Well, (drum roll please) here it is in place. If I get some time I take a video of it in action so you can see how it works, And I must say, it works pretty well.

Saw locked down showing the dust port connection and the line cord grommet.
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And in the normal position.
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#53 ·
Video Of It Suckin' Up da Dust

I shot a video of it in operation in High Definition Video and Stereo (really!) the link is below.

I thought I'd show two last pictures of it as installed. The first showing the clearance cutout in the top allowing the saw to swivel (the clearance looks larger then it is due to the angle the shot was taken at, it's just over a 1/4 inch), and by request a picture showing the connection to the cyclone duct.

The swivel clearance.
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Its connection.
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Last but not least…

Here's the link to the video
 
#54 ·
Glad you posted early tonight so I didn't have to wait up for you!! There is so much dust when you cut without the cyclone, I can smell it and I'm getting it on my keyboard:-(( Your collector is gonna work great :)) Beyond that, I'm getting errors and don't get past the first three cuts. Vid stops when you turn the saw off. Might be on Utube's enmd. I'll try agian a little later.