Graham Nash Music Stand #3: Joinery and Hardware

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Blog entry by Blake posted 09-15-2011 07:33 PM 4174 reads 4 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Taking Shape Part 3 of Graham Nash Music Stand series Part 4: The "neck" piece »

Once the glue had fully cured on the post I ran it through the planer.

Then I used a table saw tenon jig to cut the joint where the post connects to the base.

I made multiple kerfs on the table saw,

And then removed the waste on the bandsaw.

The finished joint dry fitted:

I forgot to take a photo of the “before,” but this is how I repaired an inch-long chip that broke off one of the feet when I cut the joint. I started by using a chisel and then a file to make sure that the area with the missing chip was completely flat. Then I super glued this small scrap to the flat spot I created.

Then I cut off the over-hanging edges of the scrap. By the time I sand and finish it you will never notice.

Sanding all of the parts… the whole thing will get hand-sanded in the end.

Pre-drilling and counter-sinking holes for screws on the bottom of the feet:

Ready for glue up. The screws eliminate the need for clamps. Also in this photo you can just barely see the repair I made if you look closely! (Look at the wood near the screw)

I did a lot of head scratching to decide what kind of detail I wanted to do on the post. Inlayed curly maple lines? Cut off the corners to make it octagonal? Soften it with a round-over? I finally settled on a stopped quarter-round cove along each corner. Simple and elegant.

I drilled holes for the dowels that will reinforce the joint at the base:

And glued it with epoxy.

Making the hardware:

This is the start of the hardware that will make the upper part of the post adjustable. I needed to shorten this brass threaded insert on my grinder:

And after drilling the hole, this is how it gets inserted:


This is a bronze bushing (not threaded) that will be on the opposite side from the threaded insert:

It was also too long:

I roughed up the sides and inserted it with a little epoxy:

Here is the all-thread for the “Pin” that will hold up the upper post:

Cut and grind:

A little metal epoxy will attach the knob permanently to the pin. This kind of epoxy needs to cure over night.

This work represented about 6 hours over two days for a total of 15 hours of building time so far.

-- Happy woodworking!

13 comments so far

View sras's profile


4797 posts in 3127 days

#1 posted 09-15-2011 07:49 PM

This is coming together nicely! I look forward to more of the story.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View SPalm's profile


5320 posts in 3879 days

#2 posted 09-15-2011 08:08 PM

Hey Blake,
This is looking sweet.
Love the edge treatment. Good choice.


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Brett's profile


950 posts in 2756 days

#3 posted 09-15-2011 08:33 PM

Looking good. I can’t wait to see the rest.

-- Hand Crafted by Brett Peterson John 3:16

View Karson's profile


35120 posts in 4398 days

#4 posted 09-15-2011 09:06 PM

Blake some nice looking work.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View degoose's profile


7233 posts in 3352 days

#5 posted 09-15-2011 09:22 PM

Lots of nice tips and tricks… thanks..

-- Don't drink and use power tools @

View Dave T's profile

Dave T

196 posts in 3617 days

#6 posted 09-16-2011 12:17 AM

Can’t wait to see it finished. Nice design and execution so far

View shipwright's profile


7980 posts in 2795 days

#7 posted 09-16-2011 12:52 AM

Great stuff Blake. I love it all.
Well all except the brass on the grinding wheel :-)
I’m sure you knew what you were doing, I sometimes do it too for very small jobs like this

Seriously though, It is going to be beautiful.
Good work.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees.

View fernandoindia's profile


1081 posts in 2941 days

#8 posted 09-16-2011 04:00 AM

Great work and design Blake. Also like the edge treatment. Lot of tricks.

Good going

-- Back home. Fernando

View Blake's profile


3443 posts in 3872 days

#9 posted 09-16-2011 06:47 AM

Whats wrong with brass on a grinding wheel? I was just taking off 1/8” of length.

-- Happy woodworking!

View fernandoindia's profile


1081 posts in 2941 days

#10 posted 09-16-2011 08:00 PM

Didn´t know either about brass .

My son used aluminiun on a grinding wheel. So I learned the hard way. Still don´nt know how to clean that.

Grey area are aluminiun sticked to the wheel. Not enough one wheel, but he used three on different grinders.

-- Back home. Fernando

View Beginningwoodworker's profile


13345 posts in 3670 days

#11 posted 09-17-2011 05:08 PM

Blake, you is makeing good progess.

View mafe's profile


11725 posts in 3087 days

#12 posted 09-17-2011 05:54 PM

Looking really good, and a fine repair on that tear, it will almost be invisible once you make the finish.
Really cool to follow all the steps here.
Thank you,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View Brett's profile


49 posts in 1326 days

#13 posted 05-12-2015 11:09 AM

It’s comng along very nicely mate! Good job.

May I ask where you are currently getting your brass threaded inserts from?

-- Brett, United Kingdom,

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