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Graham Nash Music Stand #3: Joinery and Hardware

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Blog entry by Blake posted 1050 days ago 3157 reads 4 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Taking Shape Part 3 of Graham Nash Music Stand series Part 4: The "neck" piece »

Once the glue had fully cured on the post I ran it through the planer.

Then I used a table saw tenon jig to cut the joint where the post connects to the base.

I made multiple kerfs on the table saw,

And then removed the waste on the bandsaw.

The finished joint dry fitted:

I forgot to take a photo of the “before,” but this is how I repaired an inch-long chip that broke off one of the feet when I cut the joint. I started by using a chisel and then a file to make sure that the area with the missing chip was completely flat. Then I super glued this small scrap to the flat spot I created.

Then I cut off the over-hanging edges of the scrap. By the time I sand and finish it you will never notice.

Sanding all of the parts… the whole thing will get hand-sanded in the end.

Pre-drilling and counter-sinking holes for screws on the bottom of the feet:

Ready for glue up. The screws eliminate the need for clamps. Also in this photo you can just barely see the repair I made if you look closely! (Look at the wood near the screw)

I did a lot of head scratching to decide what kind of detail I wanted to do on the post. Inlayed curly maple lines? Cut off the corners to make it octagonal? Soften it with a round-over? I finally settled on a stopped quarter-round cove along each corner. Simple and elegant.

I drilled holes for the dowels that will reinforce the joint at the base:

And glued it with epoxy.

Making the hardware:

This is the start of the hardware that will make the upper part of the post adjustable. I needed to shorten this brass threaded insert on my grinder:

And after drilling the hole, this is how it gets inserted:

Done:

This is a bronze bushing (not threaded) that will be on the opposite side from the threaded insert:

It was also too long:

I roughed up the sides and inserted it with a little epoxy:

Here is the all-thread for the “Pin” that will hold up the upper post:

Cut and grind:

A little metal epoxy will attach the knob permanently to the pin. This kind of epoxy needs to cure over night.

This work represented about 6 hours over two days for a total of 15 hours of building time so far.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com



12 comments so far

View sras's profile

sras

3784 posts in 1734 days


#1 posted 1050 days ago

This is coming together nicely! I look forward to more of the story.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4760 posts in 2486 days


#2 posted 1050 days ago

Hey Blake,
This is looking sweet.
Love the edge treatment. Good choice.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Brett's profile

Brett

881 posts in 1364 days


#3 posted 1050 days ago

Looking good. I can’t wait to see the rest.

-- Hand Crafted by Brett Peterson John 3:16 http://www.TheCrookedNail.blogspot.com

View Karson's profile

Karson

34862 posts in 3005 days


#4 posted 1050 days ago

Blake some nice looking work.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View degoose's profile

degoose

6981 posts in 1959 days


#5 posted 1050 days ago

Lots of nice tips and tricks… thanks..

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Dave T's profile

Dave T

194 posts in 2224 days


#6 posted 1050 days ago

Can’t wait to see it finished. Nice design and execution so far

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4848 posts in 1402 days


#7 posted 1050 days ago

Great stuff Blake. I love it all.
Well all except the brass on the grinding wheel :-)
I’m sure you knew what you were doing, I sometimes do it too for very small jobs like this

Seriously though, It is going to be beautiful.
Good work.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View fernandoindia's profile

fernandoindia

1072 posts in 1548 days


#8 posted 1049 days ago

Great work and design Blake. Also like the edge treatment. Lot of tricks.

Good going

-- Back home. Fernando

View Blake's profile

Blake

3436 posts in 2479 days


#9 posted 1049 days ago

Whats wrong with brass on a grinding wheel? I was just taking off 1/8” of length.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View fernandoindia's profile

fernandoindia

1072 posts in 1548 days


#10 posted 1049 days ago

Didn´t know either about brass .

My son used aluminiun on a grinding wheel. So I learned the hard way. Still don´nt know how to clean that.

Grey area are aluminiun sticked to the wheel. Not enough one wheel, but he used three on different grinders.

-- Back home. Fernando

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13337 posts in 2277 days


#11 posted 1048 days ago

Blake, you is makeing good progess.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View mafe's profile

mafe

9456 posts in 1694 days


#12 posted 1048 days ago

Looking really good, and a fine repair on that tear, it will almost be invisible once you make the finish.
Really cool to follow all the steps here.
Thank you,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

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