I’m thinking I’m probably going to get dinged on the C10FL as I’ve read the LJ reviews and comments on it, so I’d like to first clear the air on the saw before going into the new fence install, though it’s considered a low end saw it’s worked flawless for me over the past 5 yeas so I have no complaints other then the rinky fence that came with it, I finely got tired of pulling out the measuring tape and light taps trying to get it in position and with in this past month it got to the point where it didn’t want to release from the locked position anymore.
The time it took to install the new Delta T30 fence was around 5 hours. The steps and equipment I used are as follows.
1. Drill Press
2. Two harberfreight roller stands item#95621
3. 2’ level
4. Hand drill
5. 29/64 and 1/2” drill bits.
This method will work on most any table saw as well.
I first attached the guide tube to the front guide rail with a couple bolts on each end, I then rested them on the roller stands while placing the rear guide rail up against the front rail lining up the bolt holes to each from both rails, I then took a pencil starting from the 0 mark on the ruler I drew a straight line across both rails. Next I moved the rear rail away and set it aside with the mark on it as this mark will help me line it up when time comes. I moved the rail with the tube still attached up to the front face of the table saw with the blade in the saw in the full up position I then laid the fence down across the table sliding it up slightly touching the blade and clamped the fence down to the guide tube (note: please be sure the saw is unplugged during this part.) everything is still resting on the roller stands, I then centered the fence on the 0 mark and drew a pencil line onto the face and top of the table saw, not all saws are alike as the pencil mark lined up just inside the right edge of the left miter slot thus I was not able to use a straight edge to draw a line the full width across the top of the saw to the other side for the rear rail install but I was able to judge it very close in the miter slot and just drew pencil mark on the other side of the saw. Using the adjustable roller stands and the 2’ level, I made slight adjustments to the roller stands getting the front rail level and giving the comfortable height for the fence above the saw also while matching good hole placement on the front rail for drilling. There are two options you can go with, either drilling holes on the table saw or drilling the rails, I optioned the latter so as to use the drill press, I marked where the holes were to be drilled by getting down and behind the table and marking through the holes on the saw to the rails and then drilling them out using the 29/64 bit then using the ½ apposed to a 5/8 since I didn’t have one in my inventory the ½ still allowed enough room for the pan head screws to counter sink moving from interfering with the fence when sliding it back and forth once the holes were drilled they matched up perfect. Next onto the rear rail install using the same method as the front with the adjustable stands I matched the pencil marks up, since I was unable to get behind the table to mark through the holes on the C10FL I made a mark on the rail where the holes would line up and then used a measuring tape to get the hole placement once again off to the drill press and again a perfect match on all holes.
An awesome fence, accurate and a huge improvement to the saw.
-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs