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14" Bandsaw riser kit, Pros and Cons

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Blog entry by Blackie_ posted 02-07-2012 01:39 PM 2020 reads 0 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Something came to my attention yesterday that had not really surfaced until an attempt to make a fairly large bandsaw box with measurements of around 13.5” x 11”. I had the block of wood already eliminated to the size I needed but after taking a measuring tape from the blade to the riser I was surprised to find that by measureing from the riser kit to the blade I was coming up with 12.75”, measureing from the neck just above the riser block to the blade, I was coming up with 13.5” so it appears that a 14” is realistically only a 13.5” and by adding the riser kit knocks it down to a 12.75”.

Riser Kit
Pros – it gives you a 12” opposed to a 6” clearance from the top of the table to the bottom of the guides, great for resewing large logs or what have you.

Cons – you lose a 3/4” clearance from the blade to the neck.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs



9 comments so far

View Danpaddles's profile

Danpaddles

539 posts in 977 days


#1 posted 02-07-2012 08:50 PM

By gosh, you are right, I just went and looked at my Delta, yes you lose throat depth at the level of the table. Hey, I need an 18!! I’ll have to add it to my list I guess.

Long as we are on bandsaws- at the risk of hijacking your thread- anyone else ever try the little bearing blade guides, instead of cool blocks? I have ones made by Iturra Designs. The Carter set looks even more involved.

I have been using these for over a year. I do not often use small blades, I try to keep a 1/4 or 3/8 on it, if I need tighter curves I’ll use the scroll saw. I had a 3/16 10 tooth blade, but that was before I put the bearing things on.

I’m not convinced they are any better or any worse than cool blocks. Considering the price- skip them. Yes, they can be set real tight to the band, and they cut down on wiggle. But if you ever back up, or somehow pop the band out of those bearings, you have a bigger mess, you might even have to stop the saw to get it all back where it belongs.

I have the bearings, so I’ll use them. Setup kills me when I change bands, I worry about getting them too tight or too loose and ruining the little buggers. I’d not buy them again.

Anyone tried the ceramic ones? How about the Carter set up?

-- Dan V. in Indy

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3443 posts in 1178 days


#2 posted 02-07-2012 09:23 PM

Dan I use the Carter Stabilizer and love it only the smallest blade it can handle is 1/4”.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10974 posts in 1355 days


#3 posted 02-08-2012 02:36 AM

Blackie, I use 1/8” and 3/16” blades with my Stabilizer and haven’t had any problems. Who said it can’t handle the smaller blades?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3443 posts in 1178 days


#4 posted 02-08-2012 02:41 AM

OOPs I just read what I posted, correction I meant to say the largest blade.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10974 posts in 1355 days


#5 posted 02-08-2012 04:34 AM

Blackie, I called Carter and asked why I couldn’t use a 1/2” blade on my Stabilizer. They said “no problem but it won’t cut very tight radius”. The only problem I have had is using my Stabilizer with my circle cutting jig. It doesn’t work with any size blade. I think you need the lower guides to keep the blade from spiraling in. Doesn’t make sense as I can cut circles with the Stabilizer but not with the jig.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3443 posts in 1178 days


#6 posted 02-08-2012 12:44 PM

fFadvm, I’ve not used a circle jig yet, haven’t had the need too, I have a pretty steady hand when it comes to making circles as long as there’s a line to follow. Good to know it will work with a 1/2”, that will save me the trouble of swapping guides when it comes to resawing.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10974 posts in 1355 days


#7 posted 02-08-2012 11:35 PM

It won’t resaw worth a damn with the stabilizer. I think for the same reason the circle jig doesn’t work: you need some guides below the table. I haven’t tried using the stabilizer with the lower guides but this might work. Let me know if you try it. I leave my resaw guides set up and this make installing them much easier when I need to resaw. I use a 1” 3TPI blade for resawing. Sorry we hijacked this thread but hopefully we all learned something new.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3443 posts in 1178 days


#8 posted 02-09-2012 11:36 AM

Ah ok that’s good to know I do more scroll work then resaw so changing out guides and blades is not really a big deal for me, you must have an 18” or larger saw to handle that 1”. I’ve ran a 3/4” on mine but as most on LJ have mentioned the 14” likes the 1/2” and after using both I tend to agree, the 14” tends to like the 1/2” blade best and no worries about hijacking all good info. :)

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10974 posts in 1355 days


#9 posted 02-09-2012 05:02 PM

I have the 17” Grizzly Extreme Series and really like it.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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