I have been buying up old Stanley, Millers Falls, and other old hand planes for a few months. A portion of my shop has become a bit overwhelmed with the task of collecting, identifying and rehabbing them. I bought another 4-5 items this morning, so it’s a task that will probably take me all winter to accomplish, and that’s if I stop buying, which I have no intention of doing.
Well, here is the first plane to undergo my revised process…
This Stanley #4 smoothing plane had been left to the elements in the back of an old shed. She was badly rusted. Her tote was broken in half, the knob was split, the blade was bent but near full-length. The frog and cap iron were somehow in good condition, other than surface rust.
I took her apart, scraped off the thick goop and dirt, tossed the entire thing in an Evaporust® bath after determining that almost all of the japanning was undermined by rust, and therefore unsalvageable. This plane was going need the full treatment, including paint.My Evaporust® bath is 15” x 10”. At $21 per 128oz jug at AutoZone ($8 cheaper than Harbor Freight) it isn’t cheap, but my prior experience with electrolysis taught
me that Evaporust® is the best solution for planes. Besides, the Evaporust® will be good for MANY projects.
Here she is after the Evaporust® bath, all polished up, with a new Hock iron/cap iron assembly and outfitted with Bill Rittner’s walnut tote and knob.
-- Shawn DuGay, Wallingford, CT http://www.bigdogwoodworks.com
8 comments so far
ShaneA
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3963 posts in 766 days
#1 posted 87 days ago
Looks good, another one saved.
tsangell
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173 posts in 861 days
#2 posted 87 days ago
Smokin’. A lovely tool, now!
Don W
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9949 posts in 736 days
#3 posted 87 days ago
nice job.
-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)
BigRedKnothead
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491 posts in 150 days
#4 posted 86 days ago
Cool. Glad I’m not the only one bit by the bug.
-- "Imperfection is the prerequisite for grace. Light only gets in through the cracks." -P. Yancy
DouginVa
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428 posts in 441 days
#5 posted 86 days ago
Did you use an epoxy (appliance) paint? I’ve been doing electrolysis for a long time now and have had good results, but you think evaporust is better? Hmmm…..I might have to try it. Can you provide more detailed pics of the results on the rust?
-- Just a man with his chisel.........
Dwain
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290 posts in 2027 days
#6 posted 85 days ago
Really nice rehab. I have a set of type 11’s from three to eight and a couple need some work. I hope I can do the quality of work you have. I also would like to know what type of paint you used.
Again, great work!
-- When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there is no end to what you CAN'T do
BigDawg
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41 posts in 1888 days
#7 posted 85 days ago
As far as the paint goes…I have had the best luck with Rustoleum Hammered Black. I tried the Duplicolor Engine paint but it was too finicky. 5 lights coats of the Rustoleum works great. Please bear in mind that I am merely trying to make this a “user” plane, so “authenticity” is not high on my list of priorities. Appearance, longevity of finish and ease of application are my main priorities.
-- Shawn DuGay, Wallingford, CT http://www.bigdogwoodworks.com
Don W
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9949 posts in 736 days
#8 posted 85 days ago
What do you mean by Duplicolor Engine paint but it was too finicky?
I use the Duplicolor Engine paint because its easy and its difficult to distinguish the finished product from japanning.
I’ve used Rustoleum Hammered Black, and its a completely different look. Again, if its the look you’re going for, it works well.
Dwain, my restore blog details a lot of this.
-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)
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