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finish over oil

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Blog entry by BigD1 posted 01-30-2011 05:49 PM 1103 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I’m looking for the best top of finish to put over Watco Danish Oil. I want to give it a protective, some what hard finish. Any ideas?? Thanks.

-- Donald Baty



5 comments so far

View jcees's profile

jcees

1015 posts in 3267 days


#1 posted 01-30-2011 06:46 PM

Don’t put anything over the Watco for at least a month. The BLO in the finish takes awhile to cure. Then use a 1# cut coat of SealCoat dewaxed shellac, sprayed or brushed, then follow up with whatever film finish you want. I’m partial to lacquer sprayed or brushed. I’ve actually used uncut SealCoat [it’s already a 2# cut] as a film finish but it takes quite a few coats to get any build. Good luck.

always,
J.C.

P.S. Bear in mind what the ultimate use of your project will be in order to pick the “right” film finish. In other words, if it’s a table top or bar top, you’ll want something impervious to alcohol and that would NOT be shellac.

-- When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world. -- John Muir

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3567 days


#2 posted 01-30-2011 08:49 PM

Early on in my woodworking, I made a hall table of oak and put Watco Danish Oil on it. I gave it as a wedding present and thought it looked great. The recipients loved the table but felt unsettled at only an oil finish and requested I put another finish over it.

I asked them not to place anything on it (just to be safe) and I let it dry for 2 weeks before taking it and putting MinWax wipe-on polyurethane on it. It turned out great and has done well for many years.

The biggest liability was letting the Watco Danish Oil dry thoroughly.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3290 days


#3 posted 01-30-2011 10:41 PM

Donald, Watco Danish oil is a wiping varnish so it will form a protective topcoat all on its own. The biggest drawback to it, from my standpoint, is that it also contains raw linseed oil and vegetable oil. The vegetable oil will never cure and the raw linseed oil will take quite a while to cure out. This is why most woodworkers go for boiled linseed oil instead. Its cure time is much shorter.

After letting it sit for a while, Todd’s suggestion of two weeks is ok but as JC mentioned I would probably opt for at least a month, if you want to put another finish for a topcoat it will be fine to do so. Polyurethane would form a good protective layer. Either oil base or water base will work just fine. You can also use the topcoats that Barry mentioned. Shellac would also work well as long as the project does not come into contact with water or alcohol.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Canadian Woodworks's profile

Canadian Woodworks

702 posts in 2538 days


#4 posted 01-30-2011 10:42 PM

I second Minwax Wipe on poly.

If you have not finished the project yet, may I suggest you mix in 1/4 per volume minwax polyurethane (not wipe on) into the danish oil, it will speed up the drying process and generate more protection while keeping the ease of a wipe on wipe off finish.

Apply as many coats of the mixture until your satisfied.

-- Paul Lemiski, Ontario Canada, Custom Wooden Rocking chairs and tables http://www.canadianwoodworks.com

View mtkate's profile

mtkate

2049 posts in 2793 days


#5 posted 01-31-2011 01:11 AM

I think it depends on what you have made. I made a pine chest several years ago and finished it with danish oil. I let it dry out at least 2 weeks – maybe even more. We have been parking our butts on it to change our shoes/boots for all this time – and the thing does not seem to need any refinish. At least not yet.

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