I’m really enjoying this site, and I thought you all might like to see something a little different and what it takes to build a small yacht tender.
Boat building is totally different from cabinetmaking, as nothing is square, everything is on different plane, and it takes some practise to learn to make compound curves that are pleasing to the eye. We call it a ” fair” curve.
This is a 10 ft yacht tender that I built for a friends sailboat. I also made them a ships wheel and some otjher goodies.
The plans are from around 1932. I found them in an old book. First you “loft” the lines. That means to take the designers plans, and draw them full size so that you can make patterns and then molds, from which the hull is built .
Basically it’s like the old connect the dots drawing that kids do. You take a piece of plywwod and draw a grid. The ” offsets” are the designers points expressed in ft/ inches/ and eights. So a notation from the table would say 8-10-3, which means 8 ft, 10inches and 3/8”. You put a point on the grid and drive an icepick in it. Then you bend a batten around it and draw a line. They call it “lofting” because in the old days the only flat wooden floor in a boat shed to draw on was in the loft. From there you pick up patterns.
Here is what it looks like:
A thin piece of plywood is slipped under the pointers and drawn on the pattern.
You now have half of the mold and you make a full size mold like this:
The full set of templates are pattern routed onto plywood for the full size mold.
I built a level strong back to build the hull on and set up the molds. The hull is built upside down.My workbench is perfectly flat, and ensures a level strongback.
The completed mold .
Strip planking started.
The hull is made of Honduras Mahogany and Alaskan Yellow Cedar. It is covered with 6 oz cloth and epoxy
follwed by ten coats of UV varnish. I hope you enjoyed something a little different
The completed yacht tender.