Right now I’m trying to relearn the thing so I can make a “hose box” for my sister. I’ve just put a new sun room on the back of my house and I’ve told her that the hose needs gathered up every night and not laying around making the new digs look sloppy. So she shot back that I need to make a box! Well that’s all well and good, but I need a plan. I can build pretty much anything with a good plan. But designing my own plan – not so good.

I asked her why not just buy one of the fancy hose reels you can get, there are some really nice ones out there, but she’s against the idea. She thinks I can make a better box. We’ll see.

So I’m challenging myself by putting out this post that I’m going to design, draw and build my sister her hose box. This should keep my feet to the fire.

The basic look of the box is this: it’s going to have 4 legs (how about that——a three legged box would just not do), I want the box to be up off the ground about 2” maybe 3”, have a bottom drawer that’s about 5” high to store nozzles, gloves, etc., then the main box will be about 15 inches high. The box as a whole will be about 18 wide x. 20 high x 20 deep and it will have a lift off lid of 3/4 material that’s rabbited 3/8” so that it lays on top of the box with a 3/8” lip. The back of the box will have a 1” hole to feed the hose to the tap.

So that’s my challenge. Whether I can manage it without pulling out all my hair or turning gray will be another story.

Hang on, it might be a bumpy ride!

First you have to decide if you are going to use pocket holes to put the arm together to the back rest. I chose to use pocket screws because it’s one less thing you have to make disappear with a plug on the front of the chair.

I place my Part F onto the bottom of the back rest and mark one center location on each of the 4 skinny slats and three marks on the center slat (1” from each end and 1 in the middle). You don’t have to be super precise on the measurement.

Next up is to mark distance where you will place the pocket rocket to drill the hole. I make a guide mark at about 3/8” from the edge, and then simply drill the holes. Be sure you are drilling on the bottom – that’s important.

To put your arm assembly together you’ll need a 19.5” spacer to keep the arms at the front at the correct position. I use a clamp to lightly clamp the arms to the spacer.

Next up is to simply glue your laps together, clamp and let dry.

Once dry you’ll want to sand your assembly before moving on. It’s much easier to get all those pencil marks off and to take care of any difference in height in your lap joints.

Once dry, you can do the final assembly of the chair. For this process you’ll need two scrap pieces the same height as the front leg. You’ll want to clamp these to the back of the chair leg to hold the arms up until you get the back rest in. These will support your arms and make sure they are level.

You’ll also need a scrap piece to align the front of your arms with the chair leg. The scrap is ¾” wide and I’ve marked a ½” line to indicate the overhand of the arms.

Place your arm assembly onto the chair and rest them on the scrap pieces at the back. I generally put one screw in one arm to get it set and them set the other arm, coming back to finish up all the other screws. Be sure to drill pilot holes before driving your screws – you don’t want to split your wood when you are almost done!

Next you’ll take your back assembly and place it inside the arms and down between the leg supports. This can be a little tricky if you have gotten your measurements off at any point. The back rest should slide into the assembly without too much trouble.

I like to secure my bottom screws into the backrest before I screw the arm (part F) into the back rest.

The process I use is very simple. Get a small a scrap of ¾” material and place it on the bottom of the back rest. That scrap should be exactly at the level of the leg support, that will get you smack dab in the middle of the board to run your screw.

Before driving your screws, be sure that your back rest is flush against the seat slat.

I drive one screw on each side and check my assembly before doing the final screw.

After that you will drive your pocket screws on the underside of part F into the back rest. Be sure not to over drive – you don’t want the screw tips to come through the front. I use 1.25” screws.

Now if you chose not to use pocket holes and will be screwing your arm rest to the back rest from the front – the easiest way to determine location is to simply place a board across your arms top and bottom. Draw a pencil line to essentially box in your location. Determine the center of each slat and drill countersink holes, and install your screws.

Your chair should sit level once everything is put together. If your chair rocks then you have either put one arm more forward or have one side of the back rest too low. Check your set up quickly before your glue dries. You can always fix a little rock after a chair is done, but you don’t want a big wobble that will only sit level in the grass.

All that’s left is to plug the screw holes, paint and enjoy.

Hop is way ahead of you!

I’ve enjoyed doing this class. I do not plan to do the foot rest that goes with the chair, it’s pretty easy to follow the directions and I don’t believe I can make the plans any better than they are now.

I hope you have enjoyed the class and if you ever have questions, please feel free to contact me through PM.

I went to my neighborhood bike shop and they were kind enough to give me a trashed inner tube. As an aside, I had forgotten how nasty those things smell. Yuk. I also got some athletic tape and some of the under wrap to use with it. I also bought some new plumbing insulation to play with.

You should know that the easiest way to cut the plumbing insulation is with the band saw, it cuts clean and easy. One difference on the insulation that I used and what was left from sun room project is the new stuff has adhesive on the edges to bind it together when it’s wrapped around the pipe.

1/2” insulation is too small for the chisel handles and the 3/4” is too small but closer.

I could not hold the chisel and do the wrapping so I had to wrap the business end in paper towels and painters tape to cushion it for holding it in the bench vise.

The first thing I tried was the insulation with wrapping of athletic tape.

You can see that it does bulk up the handle, but you can see in the picture that it’s still not enough.

My goal is to get the handle up to the point where my fingers are about as far apart as the next picture.

So I’m not quite there. I next tried to add another layer of the pipe insulation.

With a layer of athletic tape, the two layers of insulation was too much.

Next up I took off the second layer of the insulation and wrapped the first layer with a layer of rubber tubing.
As an aside the inside of tubing has a nasty white powder that you really need to clean off of your hands will get dried out from it.

With a layer of athletic tape I’ve gotten pretty close.

A second layer of rubber and tape and I feel pretty comfortable with the grip.

I’m going to play with this a little bit before moving onto my hand saw. Will definitely use the the athletic under wrap on the saw handle to protect the good wood handle.

Slowly but surely I may be able to at least use my chisels comfortably in my everyday woodworking. That’s a comfort all in itself. :-)

Thanks for all the help.

For my chisel handles I’ve been experimenting with the pipe insulation that comes as a tube with a slit in it. The workmen used this to insulate my pipes for the Sunroom and left some behind. So anyway I put some around one of my chisel handles and it actually works pretty well. It is not a great fit, but I’m going to experiment more with it. I think if I use some electrical or athletic tape and tighten it up a bit, I might be able to use my chisels again! There is a slippage issue, but I think if I do the taping right I can make that work.

As for my dove tails saws, the insulation just is not going to work. But I am going to dig out my anti vibration glove and see if that might work. I’m not sure it will do the trick because its not very thick. I am leary of using tape on the nice rose wood handles, but to use the saw I really need to build up the grasping area so that my hand is not curled up as much as it would be with the current size of the handle. Of course it can’t be built up too far because the handle opening is not all that big.

I really think if I can get these two issues worked out, I just may be back into the hand tool using arena. I know that I will have to limit how much time at each session I use the tools, especially the saw, but I figure if it takes several weeks to cut dovetails for a box, so what. I’ll be doing what I’ve always wanted to do and that is to make hand cut dovetails in my projects. Since this is a hobby and not a business, time is not an issue.

I’ll need to think of some way to do the sharpening that won’t hurt my hands, but that is down the road. Right now my chisels are all wicked sharp, so with the limited use it will be a while before I need to worry about sharpening.

Does anyone have any other ideas I might use to build up the girth of my hand saws?

I’ve purchased chairs for the sun room and am considering ideas on small tables to build. The room is not large – 15×10 – almost all glass except an 18” Austin stone knee wall. I know I want a small table between the two recliners and one on either side of the couch and arm chair.

The problem I’m trying to figure out is the proportions and styles. It took a long time to get the right furniture that won’t overtake the room (I’m not a shopper and it took me three weeks of going to different stores to get what I wanted – it was exhausting, I just don’t know why people think shopping is fun), so I don’t want the tables to be too big or too small.

Then I’m trying to decide do I want just a table, or a table with a drawer and shelf, arts and crafts style, mission style—Betsy’ style. The only thing I’m certain of is that I’ll be using oak as I have a ton of it in the shop that is perfect for tables. Then I think again that it would be nice to have a table with drop leaves that can be put up to allow a card game.

So now that I’m thinking about tables, I start to think, perhaps I can make a new vanity for my bathroom. That’s a larger project, but still I’m thinking if I break it down into really small portions I can probably handle it physically.

Then I go into my bathroom area and I decide that the vanity there just is outdated. The vanity that is there now is one that is made for someone to sit at to put on makeup, etc. I have a lot of friends and they all have vanities like this in their homes (yep all cookie cutter homes) but I don’t know a single one that sits there. My particular area simply doesn’t have enough room to have a chair and still get past it on the way into the little bathroom area (which also could use a new cabinet for the sink). If I had a chair there and didn’t move it every night before bedtime, I’d trip on it during the night – so that vanity area is a lot of wasted storage space. I’m thinking I could add a drawer stack and maybe another cabinet. That would take a lot of stuff that has really no place to be. I’m thinking this area could simply be essentially three cabinets and I could probably handle that if I break it down into small parts and have my Sis help me with the assembly. So then I think to myself, as you all know, one home remodeling project leads to more. So do I really want to try to do this? I know if I update my bathroom area my Sis will want her bathroom area updated and if I update hers, then the hallway cabinets will need to be updated to match since her bathroom is essentially the guest bathroom and is off the main hallway.

To do all of that I’d really have to be organized because it would probably take a very long time for me to do it since my physical abilities come and go. I’m thinking just my bath, Sis’s bath, the hallway cabinets has 8 cabinet doors and six drawers, it is better if you can do all the set up at one time and not doing one door now and another door two weeks later.

Long and short my mind is whirling around what I can/should do for my next projects. I’m tired of doing boxes and cutting boards but I don’t want to get myself in the middle of a project and can’t finish it.

I can buy new bath cabinets but what fun is that?

So here I’m sitting, mind whirling and not sure what way to go. Reading, thinking, looking at plans, making drawings, and wondering what if…....

Not sure if all this thinking is good therapy or bad therapy, the what if’s can nail you sometimes.

Well – I feel better that I’ve got that off my chest – do you all ever find yourselves in this spot?

A half lap joint is a very basic joint, but it can be a very strong joint to connect two pieces of stock if done properly and in the right situations. The joint makes an intersection of sorts of the two pieces of wood. This intersection can be at the end of a board, in the middle or anywhere in between. I’ve seen half lap joints that are angled in different pieces, but generally speaking the joint is made by putting two boards together at a right angle.

Generally the two boards you want to join are of the same thickness (not necessarily the same width as is the case with this chair). Each board must have one half of its thickness removed – this makes it so the joint does not add any thickness to the project’s completed joint. You want the joint to look pretty close to seamless.

I’m sure there are exceptions to this rule, but for the most part, you want the joint to be seamless. I’ve not done a half lap on anything less than a 3/4 board and would think that anything thinner may be hard to work with and still keep the strength of the board in tact after having removed half of it to make this joint. I suppose though that if you make the joint and secure it quickly then the chance of breaking would be negated since you are adding the second board that’s been cut to the first. But, again, I’ve not done a board less than 3/4”.

Okay now on to the new stuff.

Just a little review of what we are doing here. We are at the step of making the lap joint which will make up the arm assembly. So far we’ve discussed using the table saw to cut the joint by simply passing your wood over the single blade over it multiple times until you reach your goal. This method is okay with a flat topped blade, but is generally not my method of choice.

The next choice would be to use my tenon jig shown in the previous installment of this blog.

Now you’ll notice that my blade does not go high enough on the arm (part K) to cut it all the way to the mark. However, The jig is perfect for the back support piece (part F).

Cautionary Note: When using the tenon jig, do not make the full cut in one pass. I think it is safer to make two or three passes raising your blade a little each time until you reach the cut you made while the board was flat on the table.

Next up is the router table. Here again, you cannot cut the arm’s shape before you rout because you will be using your miter gauge to slide the board across the cutter. If you cut the shapes out first then you have nothing to ride against your miter gauge.

Set up is pretty easy and is pretty much the same as on the table saw. You want to use a straight bit in the router and have the smallest opening you can to capture the bit. I like to start my cut right at the line and move out toward the end of the board. This is just a preference. Either way, you should have a sub-fence set up to act as a stop so that you do not go too far while routing.

Depending on the quality of your router and the bit you are using you can probably make this cut in one pass. But if you have an under-powered router you may want to make two passes.

If you are cutting in one pass be sure to test your height on two scrap pieces to be sure you’ve hit that 3/8” mark.

If you choose to cut in two or more passes, raising your bit each time, you should pass each part (INCLUDING your scrap test pieces) over the bit before raising it. That way each board is cut exactly the same. Always make the second or third pass first on your scrap pieces to be sure you have not raised the bit too far.

Hop has come back to remind you that as always, when using a router, or any other loud equipment in your shop, always wear ear protection and have a good pair of goggles.

On my router table having dust collection set up does not help a lot during this particular cut due to its distance from the actual cut, but I still connect it because it does help a little.

Because the dust collector does not get all the chips you need to constantly check that you are clearing the chips away from your miter gauge so that you are not skewing your piece with vagrant chips getting between the work piece and the miter gauge.

As you did with the table saw, be sure to use a backer board on the miter gauge at the router table, this will help avoid chip out on the exiting side of the board. Also, because the bit will pull your piece into itself you need to maintain a tight grip on the board. Often adding a piece of 100 grit sandpaper to the fence will help hold it in position.

One caveat here – you guys with the Shop Smith set ups have a great miter jig with the hold down built into the handle. When I had my Shop Smith I loved that one feature, it really secures your work piece.

Now onto another way to use the router to make this cut. You can make a jig similar to this (I didn’t actually take all the steps to make the jig—- just showing you what I would consider doing.)

First off you need to get your boards secure to one another. I, once again, use my table saw’s fence to butt my pieces up against so that I know they are square to one another. I then place a sacrificial board at the opposite end. This board must be clamped down. It will act as a platform to keep your router from tipping over when you get near the end. This board should be square to the ends.

Next you need a “fence” on the left side of your router. This is a little trickier to set up. The easiest way to do this is to set your router onto the work piece with the edge of the bit just on the cut out line. Next clamp the “fence” down on one edge then using a square to be sure the fence is aligned properly clamp the other side down. I used to have a dedicated jig for this, but it’s long gone. But this is the general idea.

Hop is here to tell me to not to do this method. I am out of the large router business until I can get more strength in my hands. That’s the major reason I’m not going into any depth on this jig. If I make it, I’ll want to use it and that’s not good. So I hope you got the idea from what little I showed you.

One method we did not mention in previous segments is cutting the lap joint using the band saw. That’s an excellent choice. If your band saw is set properly and you have a good fence system you should be able to cut the waste out in one shot (if your band saw has a riser block). However, you still need to make two cuts, one at the table saw to make the initial stop point and then on the band saw. Also, depending on how smooth you cut, you may have to do a little sanding to clean up the joint. An additional thing to think about – is you want to first cut the table saw cut. If you do not have a riser block on your band saw you will have to cut out the shape of the arm first then make the lap cut. Having cut out the shape first does not matter on the band saw as you easily cut from the left or right side of the blade.

Again, I’m not a big fan of the band saw for exact cuts, but it can be done. I’m just not very good at it.
Okay now after all that you might be wondering which method I’m going to choose to use to make my lap joints. I’ve chosen the tenon jig. Even though my blade will not go to the height of the joint, it goes high enough that the little sliver left that it cannot cut, I can easily cut with a small hand saw. I think this gives me a clean, fast cut. I only have to set the blade height once to cut the flat-on-the-table cut and then only have to adjust the distance for the tenon jig once to cut the waste away.

Here’s what I do in step by step pictures.

I have some cards in my slot to show the height.

Did you see my mistake? I didn’t make the flat cut on the table saw on my scrap pieces. That’s okay. I’ll use my band saw to cut off the waste. I only need to have the height to check my set up.

My first set up didn’t go so well.

I reset and my second try was much better.

Part F was easy on the tenon jig because my blade goes plenty high enough.

On Part F you have to flip it end for end because you have a lap joint on both ends.

I’ve clearly marked what part of the arm goes and what stays.

On the arm support you must absolutely do it two passes. You can see that I’ve lowered my blade.

You can see that I’m left with a little sliver to take care of.

The piece can be cut out using a hand saw.

I’ve secured my piece in my work bench’s vise and will use my left hand to keep the saw up against my wall.

This still required a little bit of chisel work.

Cleaned up – my pieces fit together perfectly.

Next step is simply to cut your shape out on the band saw.

The very last step is to cut the bevel on Part F.

Set your blade at a 25 degree angle and move your saw’s fence to the proper setting. The easiest way to make this setting is to simply put work piece up against the fence and slide it to the blade.

You must have the lap side DOWN to make this cut.

You can see it’s not much of a bevel but it’s necessary to get the arm assembly to set correctly against the back assembly.

Here’s my confession on this bevel. I’ve made quite a number of these chairs from this set of plans and I’ve never made the bevel correctly.

I always though the bevel had to be across the whole piece, including the lap portion. Well duh! Making the bevel across the whole piece gives you this ugly gap.

(Yes – this particular chair needs to be repainted!) I would generally fill this with a little wood putty or caulk when I painted the chair. Finally, I realized that I was wrong and now I make the bevel on only the non-lapped section of piece.

Be sure to sand your arms smooth on all sides. I generally tape my arms together and sand as one unit so they are perfectly symmetrical.

Next installment will be actually putting the two arms and the support together and final assembly of the chair itself.

As always, thanks for looking.

Here are some shots of my jig.

You’ll need a piece of track, a knob and a holding device to act as your securing device.

You can buy the track at Rockler or Woodcraft. Be sure your track will fit into the scrap material you intend to use. My sides are made from 3/4” MDF.

I cut the track by just passing my piece over a single blade enough times to make the track fit snuggly. Since it is MDF I was not worried about ridges as you can clean those up very quickly with a few swipes of some sand paper.

You can see that the “backer” board will get cut through as you make cuts so it’s a board that will need replaced from time to time.

This shot just shows the jig as it fits over the fence. It’s kind of hard to see since the saw’s fence is black.

You want your jig to fit tightly to the fence, but not so tight that you have to push harder than you would push on any other board going through your blade. Not sure that my idea is coming through on this point. But just be sure you have a tiny bit of wiggle room on the jig so that it slides neatly across the fence and is not a bear to move, but not so much wiggle room that as you push the jig it skews a little outward. Get that?

One thing that can help the jig move more smoothly is to use a little wax on the portions that actually touch the saw’s fence. Like anything else – a little wax will do ya. Who said I didn’t have a sense of humor. Ha! :-)

You’ll notice on my jig I do not have a handle or push stick built in. That’s on purpose. My old jig (that fit my old saw) had a handle and I found I did not get a good feel for how the board was moving through the blade. With this jig, I use my hand with my wrist on the saw’s fence and my fingers (and thumb) just on the jig to push it. This gives me a better feel of things and it works better for me. But if you feel better with a handle by all means make one. But be careful where you place the handle. You don’t want it up so high on the jig that when you push you actually bring the back of the jig up off the fence. So experiment as to where the best spot is for the handle.

The set up for this jig is pretty simple. All you really need to set is the height of the blade and the distance from the blade to cut out the waste material.

Now there is one thing I’ve not told you which you’ve probably already thought of. Using the tenon jig means you actually have to make two cuts. One with the board lying flat on the table to get the shoulder cut. The second cut will be upright in the jig.

Now here’s your safety notice. When pushing the board through the blade – keep your pushing hand on the jig. Keep your thumb off the wall of the jig.

What I would do differently if I were to make this jig again would be to add a second track so that I can add an additional hold down.

Okay the next installment will be putting the jig through its paces.

Enjoy.

Thanks for looking.

Both part K and F have a 3/8 lap joint. Both together make the assembly.

Part K’s lap joint is on the bottom and part F is on the top. That’s an important point to remember.

Before I cut my arm to shape I cut the lap joint. Here’s why.

As I am sitting in the chair the right arm can be cut against the miter slide.

But the left arm, if already cut out must be flipped over to cut the lap joint.

To safely cut the left arm if it’s already cut to shape you would have to some way to support the board.

You can see that you’d have to put a scrap piece between the edge of the arm piece and the miter sled. It would have to be an exactly sized piece so as to keep your work piece from shifting. (You cannot use the cutoff piece from when you cut out the arm shape because it’s missing the material from the saw kerf). It’s also not a good idea because you will have to manage two pieces of wood going through the blade at one time. Not a good idea. I would not suggest doing it.

No matter how you cut the joint you must have some backing support.

I always cut my lap joint before cutting the arm to shape.

I like to cut my part F – the support to width and length before getting to the lap joint.

Cautionary Note: In cutting part F you must remember back to the backrest assembly. We discussed that the backrest assembly has to be the same width as the inside of your chair assembly. Then the length of Part F must equal the width of the back assembly and the width of both laps of part K. So if your back rest is a little more or a little less than the correct 19.5” you must make the correction on the length of your part F.

Regardless of the length part F must be 3.25” wide.

There are several ways to cut a lap joint.

1) Cut by hand
2) Cut on table saw with a regular blade
3) Cut on table saw with a dado blade
4) Using a table saw jig (pretty slick jig!)
5) Cut on a router table
6) Cut with a router using a sled/jig.

Method one is out for me. I’ve done it in the past with some pretty good success, but hand cutting is not in my tool arsenal any longer. So it’s a machine joint for me.

Method 3 – the dado blade is an excellent choice. But I don’t have a dado set up so I’ll skip this method also. It’s a great way to cut the joint – so if you have a dado set go for it.

Let’s first concentrate on cutting the joint on the table saw with a regular blade. You guys who already know the drawback to this method – hang with me, I’ll explain that in a little while.

First off no matter the method you chose to cut your lap joints you need to decide the width of both lap joints. The lap on the arm (part K) is the same width as the support piece (part F).

The width of the lap joint on part F is the same as the width of the arm (part K) AFTER it has been cut out to shape.

You can see that you have two set ups for width, but only one set up for depth to make. It makes sense, in my opinion, then to first set the height of your blade. You’ll need to gather up a few scraps to test your cuts. Make sure the scraps are the same thickness as your work piece materials.

Either set the height with a ruler or a set of set-up blocks. The set up blocks are more accurate and are an inexpensive set of gadgets to have around.

Remember that the top of you saw tooth should just barely hit that 3/8” mark.

I shifted my set up block to other side of the blade to check myself.

Learning Point – if you are using a typical saw blade, your inside and outside teeth are different heights. Keep that in mind when you are setting your height.

Use your fingertip to get the feel of it. You’ll be amazed how your finger can really help you hit the mark. You want to have the blade just at the exact height and you can tell that better with your finger than with your eyes.

Once you feel you’ve got that 3/8” mark set, use two scrap boards to make a test cut. Take a couple of passes on the ends of both boards. Then lay them against each other.

I did pretty good on my first try. Honest – it really was my first try!

Cautionary note – if your set up is not right the first time, it’s either too high or too low – you have to adjust your blade height one-half of the amount you are off. Remember that you are cutting two pieces so half of whatever amount you are off has to come off each piece.

Once you’ve reset your blade height, make another set of test cuts. (I suggest cutting off the first test cuts at the chop saw. This will avoid getting the ends of the boards mixed up—- hum—- is that end the first cut or the second cut—- you get the idea. I’ve done it a lot, so I finally just made myself get in the habit of cutting off the first test cuts.)

Now let me show you the drawback to using this method to cut your lap joints

You see those ridges – those ridges have to go. You’ll either have to use a hand plane to clean up the lap joint or sand it down to be smooth. There’s a small amount of ridge you can live with – but this is too much.

With that said – if I were using a flat topped blade I’d get a better surface. So that’s a choice if you don’t have that slick jig I mentioned above or have a router table or a hand held router. Just remember that you have to account for that ridge when you are doing your set up. It’s hard to get it right – but you can do it.
Now on to how to actually set up the cut on the table saw with just one blade.

First this is a valuable tool to have in your arsenal. It’s a saddle square. You can use it to carry a line from one face of a board to an edge – it works great.

The easiest way to use this square (in my humble opinion) is to place your pencil point on the original line and ease the square over to just touching the pencil tip, then draw your line down the other edge.

Now you can use that second line drawn with the saddle square to set up the exact location of your table saw blade.

THIS POINT IS IMPORTANT

Do not use both your fence and your miter gauge at the same time to make a cut. You’ll very likely end up with a kick back or other sour note.

Use a scrap piece to make a “sub fence” that you will use to butt your work piece against and yet allow you to pass the board through the blade AFTER the board leaves the edge of your scape piece.

Now you can start making your cuts.

The first pass your piece is butted right up against the scrap “sub fence”.

After you pass the blade, pull the work piece to the left of the blade and bring the sled and piece back past the blade.

Next slide your work piece back against the sub fence then move it slightly less than the width of your blade to the left.

Make your next cut and continue along the length of your joint.

Alternatively you can make your cut this way.

This method you hold the piece firmly against the sled, pass it through the blade and WITHOUT moving the board, bring the board and sled back through the blade. I do this all the time with no problems, but if you are just starting out and getting used to the table saw the first way is probably the safest way to go. You must absolutely not allow the board to shift as you bring it back through the blade. If you cannot do that – don’t make the cut this way.

Finally after all those passes this is what you end up with.

You have the ridges to deal with. I honestly don’t like this method except for down and dirty joints to be made in a hurry.

Now onto that 4th method, the slick jig.

This is the jig.

How to set it up and use it accurately is the next installment of my little blog.

As always – any questions or comments are welcome.

This is the pattern for the arm (part K).

You’ll notice I have already drilled pilot holes for where the arms will be screwed to the front leg (part I) and arm support (part J).

At this point you need to remember that you have both a right and a left arm. You are using one pattern for both arms, therefore you have to flip the pattern over to make the second arm.

Here’s a bad idea and a bad habit.

Don’t get in the habit of using your saw’s fence as a tool tray. It’s a bad idea because when have the saw going and you reach for your push stick – you could accidently flip one of those little things into your blade and it will come right back at you. Not a good idea. There’s the safety lesson for today. 

Use your saw’s fence and blade to set your distance to cut the width of your arm.

If you are still at the stage of cutting your pattern use your pattern’s edge to determine where to set your fence.

Let’s pretend I do not have my pattern cut out yet. What I would do (providing you used one factory edge as a beginning point) would be to put my pattern up to the blade and use a straight scrap to line up your mark.

Cautionary Note: Be sure to line up with the inside tooth of the blade.

Now that you’ve set your saw for width, you can cut your boards to length at the chop saw. Be sure to use a support at one end of your board.

Also before cutting to length use your pattern to determine the best part of the board to use, you want to avoid having a knot at either end of your arm piece.

Avoid this.

You can use your pattern to determine the best place to cut – you can see that I’m avoiding knots both at the top and bottom of my pattern.

Cautionary Note – Beware of this – I have a hidden knot under my pattern.

If the knot is a tight knot – no problem, but if this knot is not tight so I would not use this section of the board for my arm.

Here’s a knot I can live with.

Be sure to use a backer board at the chop saw and cut the two pieces you will need for your arms to exactly 28” long.

Now with both pieces side by side place your pattern on top and trace the first arm.

REMEBMER you have a right and left arm. Once you trace the first pattern – flip it over to trace the second.

Now you have your pattern laid out so as to avoid knots you can go ahead and cut to the boards to width.

Cautionary Note – the first board is easy – the second board you have to flip over (right to left – not top to bottom), you want to make sure you cut off the right edge.

Now that you have your arms cut to length and width you can drill your pilot holes

Be sure you have the sides together. The cutout curve goes to the outside of the chair.

Now you can drill the screw holes using a Forstner bit.

Next up cut the middle support – Part F, to length and width. (3-1/4×25”)

STOP!

Now we need to talk about lap joints. The arm has a 3/8” lap joint cut into the bottom and part F – the middle support has a 3/8” lap joint on the top. The two lap joints when together will equal ¾”.

This is where I’ll end this lesson. I’ll start making the lap joints this weekend.

As always – if you have any questions or comments please let me know.

First off I want to say that this part of the blog was hard to write to make it clear. So if you have any problems with my explanations or have questions please feel free to ask. And for those of you who have PM’d me and said you plan to do this project in the spring, please feel free to PM me them if you have questions.

Also I apologize for the poor photography. I think I may have to have Degoose come over from the other side to help me take better pictures! Actually, if I’d open my wallet and get a better camera ….

We first start by cutting the slats. Part A is best made by using a 1×8 which is actually 7 1/8” wide.

Part A needs to be 7” wide so you barely need to cut just an edge off to hit your 7” mark. If you are using a new board (8’ long) you’ll need to cut it down to size. The final length to cut to is 33”, but cut it about ¼” longer so you can square up the other end.

You can see that my board has a few knots at both ends. So I have to decide which end to use if I choose to use this board. I can do one of several things.

1) I can use the end where the knot is solid and trim the edge without the knot to 7”
2) I can cut out the knot which makes me lose about 6” of my board that could be useful
3) Because the knot is not at the very end, I can use this end for the bottom of part A.

I would not use the end of the board where the knot is loose and likely to come out at some point in the life of the chair.

Be sure to use some support to hold the long end of the board while you make your initial cut at the chop saw.

Once cut to length, rip that 1/8” extra inch off of the board to make it the 7” needed.

The next step is to make the arc needed on the top of the board. Measure down from the top of the board 3.5” and in from the side 3.5” to make an intersecting point.

Set your compass on the intersecting point and swing the compass from side to side making your arc. You’ll see that you will cut off just a bit of the top making the arc. This allows you to cut the curve avoiding a flat spot on the top.

Cut the arc at the band saw, then sand down to the line. Once the curve is sanded go ahead and break the edges so the piece has a soft edge all around. That will complete Part A.

Parts B & C are the same width (2-7/8) but not the same height.

A 1×4 is perfect for these two parts, but you can also get two parts out of a 1×8.

Part B is 29” tall and Part C is 26.5” tall.

You’ll need two B’s and 2 C’s for each chair.

Cut the boards to the length needed at the chop saw and then cut to width at the table saw.

Learning Point – Normally you would stack cut both B’s and both C’s together, however, since you need 1 B and 1 C on each side of Part A it’s better to cut a B & C stacked together. That way when you cut the arc and sand to the line both parts will have the same exact arc.

Use carpet tape to secure Part C on top of Part B (the longer slat). Mark the arc on the top of Part C. Use the same method to get your arc measurement – either use the full size pattern or measure the compass size using a measure stick.

Cautionary note on carpet tape – the backing paper is quite slick. So when you take it off the tape, don’t let it fall on the floor. It’s so slick that it’s easy to slip on causing a fall.

2nd cautionary note on carpet tape – If your board has any bow at all the carpet tape will NOT hold the board flat – so make sure you use flat boards.

Since you are stacking a short board on top of a long board, be sure to draw your arc on the short board.
To mark the arc measure down 2 and 15/16” from the top and set your compass.

Take to the band saw and cut as before. Once cut keep the stack together and sand to the line. Mark the two pieces to keep them together on one side or the other.

You’ll notice that you take a little off the top of these parts like you did on Part A – this keeps you from have flat spots on your slats.

Now is a good time to break the edges of each slat so that they are smooth instead of a hard square edge from the saw.

Next you need to make Part D which is the bottom support piece. Part D is 3.5” wide by 19.5” long.

Let me digress a little as we approach Part D. If you have read my other post about making this chair – you’ll notice several things I’ve done differently with this chair. Yep – even old dogs can learn new tricks. One of the things I’m doing differently on this chair is that I’m not using pocket hole screws to attach Part D to the back slats (parts A, B and C). I think if I’m honest with myself, and you, I would say that I used the Kreg system to do this particular joint just because I really like using it. But when you step back and look at it, the pocket holes on this particular part is probably just overkill. It’s a tiny bit more difficult to do just regular screws but not that much that it warrants using the more expensive pocket screws.

Okay – back the task at hand.

You’ll notice that the 19.5” of Part D is the exact width of the inside dimension between the leg supports of your seat assembly.

It’s important that this part is the right size as it impacts how the whole assembly fits on the chair and the width of the arm assembly a little ways down the road. With that said——

Cautionary Note – if you measure the inside dimension and it comes up a little short or a little long – you’ll need to account for that measurement in making part D, and in the width of the slats (or the space between the slats) and in making Part F of the arm support. The final width of the back rest must be the same as the inside dimension of the legs.

Learning Point – Use the chair itself to mark the dimension of Part D. Be certain not to make Part D too tight – you do need a tiny bit of wiggle room to get the parts together at final assembly.

To use the chair as the measure simply put your roughed sized board with one edge just on the inside of one leg and then lay the other end over the leg and make a mark.

Learning Point – be certain that the ends of Part D do not have knots as it will be difficult to drive screws into.

Next up is Part E – the top support. This is one part that can also be made from a piece of scrap. Additionally, it does not have to be exactly 1.5” wide, so if you have a piece 1.25” wide you can use it with no problem.
Part E does need to be at least 18.5” long. No matter the width you have, use a small square to find the center point of the board.

On a project like this I don’t measure to the 1,000th’s of an inch. That’s not to say that I’m not accurate – but you don’t need to get out the fancy calibers. For instance if you know your board is 7” wide then half of that is 3.5. So set your square to 3.5 – make a mark then flip the square to the other side and it should line up with the line you made. If it does not, then simply move the body of the square up or back according to whether you over or under shot the 3.5 mark. I’ve taken a picture here to show what I mean – it’s exaggerated to make the point.

Just keep adjusting until you are pretty sure you’ve hit center.

Once you have determined the center of your board use the square the run the line the length of it. Sometimes it’s hard to hold the piece still and run the square and hole the pencil at once. My solution is to use the edge of my table saw as one anchor point and my six-packs abs for the other. That holds the board good and stead!

Now you need to clear some bench space as it’s time to assemble the back rest. You’ll need your ¼” spacers, two longish clamps and a scrap board that is 3.5” wide and at least as long as Part D.

First job is to find out how close you got to meeting that 19.5” mark. Lay out all the slats and put the ¼” spacers between each one. (Use one spacer at the top and one near the bottom. Place your Part D on the bottom edge of the slats.

Basically this is the set up

If your slats (with the spacers) is a little short of the 19.5” mark, use a few playing cards evenly distributed between the slats to make up the little shortness. If you are over the mark of 19.5” of Part D – you will need to take a little off of the outside slats.
Cautionary Note and a Learn Point – if say you are ¼” too long. You want to cut 1/8” off two slats. That way your two slats are the same. If you take ¼” off just one slat – you’ll have a slat that will look off.

Now here is a lesson of how when you are trying to write a blog and tell someone else how you do something – you come up with another good idea. It just occurred to me that if you would cut your slats to width and before cutting your arcs check to see that they match the length of Part D, if you are too wide – you can take the little bit off before cutting your arc and that will ensure all your arcs are the same. Sitting here thinking about it, I don’t think it would make that much difference in the appearance of your arcs if you cut them before laying them out – but this is something to think about.

Digression over – let’s move on.

At this point you need to decide if you are going to put the entire back rest together and then paint or if you want to leave yourself some room to paint. Here’s a picture to give you an idea of what I’m saying.

I secure the two outside slats (Part C) and the middle slat (Part A) and leave the two inside slats (Part B) off to the side. To do the assembly you have to have all the slats in place you simply do not screw down the two Part B’s.

I prefer to put on Part E before tackling Part D. I just think it’s easier to manage the whole assembly when you have to turn over the assembly to attach Part D.

First up – we have to do a little measuring. On the BACK both outside slats (Part C) measure up from the bottom 23.5”. Then at that point, measure in ½”. This will give you the “box” where Part E will be attached.

Now flip your slats over (it may help you to remember how things go back together after your trip to the drill press if you make a carpenter’s triangle across all 5 slats – on the back).

On the FRONT of the slats measure up 3/8” from the bottom and make a mark. Then find the center point across the width of all four Parts B & C and make a mark at the bottom AND at about the 23.5” mark as well. You’ll use the mark at the top to determine where to place the screws in Part E. The mark at the bottom is where you will drill the pilot holes to attach Part D when we get there.

Next make a mark 1” in on either side of Part A and then find the center and make a mark at the bottom AND at the top. Because of the width of Part A – you need to use three screws to secure it to both Parts D and E.

Now using either a hand drill or your drill press drill the screw holes on the bottoms of each slat (ON THE FRONT). If you use a drill press for the part you can clamp a scrap board to the drill press table to make a fence so you will always have the right distance from the end. If I were going to be doing a multitude of these I would make a fence, but since there are only five parts – I pretty much eyeball it.

Now you need to get the locations marked for the screw holes on Part E. At this point I do use two clamps to hold my slats together so I can get an accurate mark. Lay Part E onto the slats so that the ends match up with the “box” you made earlier. Now – with the center marks you made earlier – make a mark on the side of Part E and carry it over to the top – which will mark the center points to make the screw holes.

Then it’s another trip to the drill press to drill the holes. Be sure that you don’t drill the screw holes too deep – you want them just deep enough to take the screw head and to leave enough room to hold a plug. About ½ the body of the forstener bit is plenty deep.

Once all the drilling is done go ahead and sand off the pencil lines and break the edges of the piece (easier to do now than when it’s attached.) Only break the edges of the TOP of the piece not the bottom that actually attaches to the slats.

Now onto the attaching of Part E. You’ll need to add some glue at this point to the back of Part E and a little onto each slat.
Cautionary point here – If you intend to only attach the outside and middle slats to allow you room to paint, be sure NOT to put glue on those areas of Part E that will be left without a slat. Also, if you plan to attach all the slats at once and paint later you want to be careful with the glue and it’s hard to get squeeze out from between the slats.

You should now have your slats with the fronts down and the back up, with your ¼” spacers and two clamps lightly clamping the slats together. Place one end of Part E into your box and drill your pilot hole with the 3/32nd bit.

CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION – be very careful not to be all gung ho and drill all the way through the front of the slats. You just want to break through Part E and into the slat just a little ways.

What I do, is drill my first pilot hole, drive the first screw and use it as a pivot to place my other end.

So I do one end then the other and then the inside slats. I use the 1-1/4” screws here.

So now onto Part D. Depending on the clamps you used you may have to take them off at this point to flip the assembly over. I used my Bessey clamps so I have to take them off or they are too heavy. If you take them off, just be sure to put your spacers back in before you replace the bottom clamp (at this point – you only need the clamp at the bottom.

I use my table saw fence to my advantage here as well. Use two small clamps and attach the scrap 3.5” piece of material to the fence. Then lay the back rest with the top on the scrap and the bottom towards you.

Put some glue on the Part D and slide it under the slats, drill the pilot holes and drive the screws the same way as you did for Part E.

Congratulations you’ve finished the back assembly!

All that’s left is putting in your plugs (again going with the grain).

Once your plugs have dried sand them down flush with the slats.

Next up the arm assembly.

As always if you have any questions or comments please let me know.

Cut a piece just a tiny bit wider than 3.25” to allow for a nicer curve. Cut one piece long enough to make both pieces.

You’ll use a compass to mark the curve. The nice thing about plans like the one used for the chair is some of the paper patterns are full size. You can use the pattern to set a school style compass to the 3.25” or you can set the compass using a ruler.

Place your compass point at one corner of the board you’ve cut.

Then simply swing it to make your arc.

Next cut the board into two pieces using a chop saw.

Use a small piece of carpet tape to make a stack. Be sure to put the carpet tape on the area that will make the two parts.

In small pieces like this I like to use two small nails to hold the stack together. I have this handy little “nail spinner” to essentially drill the nail into the wood.

You can load the nail into the spinner.

Finish driving the nails into the stack to make sure the nail goes through both pieces.

Cautionary note – Be very careful not to drive the nails so far that they break through the back. If they break through you will do one of two things – you’ll scratch your band saw table and/or the nails will catch on the table making it tougher to move through the blade.

Set the band saw blade guard to just above the height of the stack and and cut out the parts.

While the stack is still together – via the tape – use a sander to clean up the saw marks.

Next use a piece of sandpaper and break the edges of the outside of the stack. Only break the edges that will not join to front leg (part I). Rounding those edges will prevent a good clean joint.

Take the stack apart and break the inside edges as you did for the outside edges.

Next use a small square and make a mark 3/8” in from the edge along the top of the arm support and along the rounded bottom of the part.

Use a square and draw a line bisecting the two screws hold made earlier when you cut the front leg (part I).

Move your square to the top of Part I and make another straight line.

Now you can use your marks made on the arm support rest (part J) to align the support with where it needs to go to match up with the arms that you will be making later.

I’ve taken a picture that shows how the marks make it easier to align the parts.

Next up is to drill the pilot holes and drive in the screws.

Cautionary note – In this particular spot I make sure to use the shorter 1.25” screws. If you use the longer screw you run the risk of breaking the screw used to attach the arm to the arm support.

I use a little trick in screwing the parts together. After I drill the first pilot hole I then put glue on the part and drive the screw just a little way through the front leg.

This allows me to realign the part exactly where it was. You can take the chance of drilling the pilot hole, then picking up a second drill, placing the screw into the hole and then picking up the drill to drive it in one act – I can’t do it. So I use that trick.

After driving the first screw – use it as a pivot to align the bottom of the part.

Finally, add plugs that go with the grain.

You are now ready to the let the plugs dry. Once dried sand them flat and get ready to make the back rest.

As always – your comments, questions or suggestions are appreciate.

You need a fence of some sort to make sure that each slat is drilled at the correct place on each end. This is my fence – just a piece of MDF with two boards at a 90 degree angle which keeps everything square.

You need to place the fence on the drill press table and clamp it into position so that the bit will enter at the right point.

Now with the 3/8” Forstener bit drill a screw hole on each end of all of the slats.

Next up is cutting the bevels. Your 13 slats go like this starting at the back of the char:

1. 20 degree bevel on one edge
2. no bevel
3. no bevel
4. no bevel
5. no bevel
6. no bevel
7. no bevel
8. no bevel
9. no bevel
10. 20 degree bevel on both edges
11. 15 degree bevel on both edges
12. 30 degree bevel on one edge
13. no bevel

Cautionary Note On any slat that is going to get a bevel – try to avoid slats with a knot at or near the edge like this one.

Cutting through the knot may make it come loose and leave you with a gouge in the side of your slat.

First up is cutting the 20 degree bevel for slat one. Use a good gauge to tilt your blade from 90 degrees to 70 degrees. I like my Wixie gauge.

Line your fence up so that the tooth of the blade will just cut through the corner of the slat.

You can check your accuracy by placing the slat against your plan. The new plans are much more accurate as being “life size” than the original old plans.

Once you cut your bevel – make sure you mark the bevel on the piece so you keep them straight.

While you have the blade tilted for the 20 degree bevel – do the slat that requires the 20 degrees on both edges. Then again you can check against your plan.

Now adjust your blade to cut the remaining bevels.

Now comes to the assembly portion of the job.

I use my saw’s fence as a holder for my one leg assembly. I place my front leg (part I) in line with the front of my saw’s table then use a small clamp to hold it in place.

Because the back of Part G is inside part I – you need to use a spacer between the part and the fence – then use another clamp to hold it in place.

Next you need to get a spacer cut to 19.5” to place between the back of the two part G.

I use one of the 21” slats at the front of the chair and then I make sure the second Part I is also even with the front of my table saw front. Then you need to gather up some 1/4” spacers.

I make my spacers out of some scrap 1/4” ply. Using the spacers place all the slats on the chair to be certain they fit correctly.

Now you place the first slat on the lines you drew on the Part G.

Now using your spacers place all the slats onto the chair seat assembly making sure you will have a good fit.

The spacing between slat 10 and 11 is one that you have to eyeball a little bit – if you use the 1/4” spacer you end up with too large of a space. It’s pretty easy to eyeball – once it is at the right location – you should be able to run your hand across the seat slats without having any high spots.

Place a small amount of glue on each end of the slat, place the slat using your spacers and with the 3/32nd bit drill the pilot holes for each slat. Once drilled drive in a #6 1.25” screw.

Cautionary Note Not drilling a pilot hole will create an opportunity to split the wood when you drive in the screw.

You will know that your chair is square if each slat is placed and none hang over the edges of Part G.

Now that all the slats are placed you need to get some plugs cut and placed.

Learning Point You don’t have to have really tall plugs – in fact you want to try to have the plugs just barely tall enough to bottom out in the screw hole and just come over the top of the slat.

Use a 3/8” plug cutter to cut enough plugs to fill in all the slats and the three holes where Part I and Part G where joined using dowel pins.

Once you’ve drilled your plugs you have to cut them out. One thing that will make the chair look nicer (and this is good for future projects of a higher quality) is to make the plug’s grain follow the grain of the piece being plugged. Once you have cut your plugs and removed them from the “mother board” you often cannot tell what the grain direction is. To make this easier on yourself – use a sharpie pen and simply draw a line on each plug.

Draw a line down the edge of your “mother board” at about the position that will be cut the plugs out.

Now so that the plugs don’t go flying all over the shop when you cut them out – I use blue painters tape to cover the plugs.

Take the board to the band saw and slice the board along your line. All that done here is what you should have.

Now place the plugs in each of the screw holes.

Painting the chair is a hard job because of the location between the slats. One option is to screw down one slat – skip a slat, screw down one, skip one, etc. This gives you a chance to paint the slats without working so hard at getting between the slats.

Here is some example shots of how I paint my chairs.

I have made a small jig to hold the slats that are not screwed down.

As you can see the jig is simply two scraps of wood with dowels inserted. I can then place the slats with the screws holes resting on the dowel pins. This gives me the support to hold the slats still and give me the space to paint them easily.

Okay so that’s it for this part. The next part will be assembling the back rest.

As always your comments are appreciated.

Now that we have the leg supports (parts I & G) together it’s time to move onto making the slats. This is one area where you can use up some of those pine scraps laying around the shop. I can generally find enough long scraps to at least get 4 or 5 before I have to cut into a full size board.

In all you will need 13 slats per chair. Using a 1×6x8 you can get 16 slats giving you 3 for those just in case times.
The slats are all 1.5” wide by 21” long. Four of the slats will be cut with one or two bevels.

As you get ready to cut your slats, I prefer to cut the 1x material into 21” lengths before cutting the individual slats. I do this so that I can take advantage of using a stop block on the chop saw ensuring they will all be exactly the same length – which will be an important trait later on. A 1×6x8 will give you 16 slats and a small amount 5 or 6 inches of scrap off one end.

Learning PointAs you cross cut the slats to 21” – make sure you are not going to drive a screw through a know at the end of the slat. If you want to keep a knot in the slat as a “character” portion, cut the slat so the knot will be about 2-3” in from the end.

Cautionary Note – If you are going to try to get some of your slats from your shorts bin you must be careful not to use cupped or warped boards. I talked a little about this in an earlier post.

(Before I start putting in pictures – please give this old gal a break – my hands are in a trembling stage and I’m having a hard time getting crisp pictures.)

Okay – this first picture shows you a cupped board with the convex side up.

Granted this cup is not very bad – that’s because I generally don’t buy badly cupped boards (patting myself on the back now).

The next shot shows the same board flipped over

Try to use your imaginations and picture that cup as being a bit larger and clearer. The point here is that you do not want to run a cupped board through the table saw – it’s not the best way to deal with the cup.

Try to picture in your mind the board’s cup up (making a tunnel for the little gerbels in the shop to run through). If you were to push this board through the blade one of several things could happen. First of all – you will need to have your blade up higher than needed for a flat board. Secondly, as you pass the board through the blade the board will start coming in closer contact with the blade and get pinched between the blade and the fence. This can cause you to push harder than you should have to or it may create a kickback issue for you.

Now try to picture the board with the cup down – (convex). The board may be able to run along the fence, but it will also collapse down on the blade causing the same issues as above. But most importantly in my mind is this – how would you push this board safely through blade? It will rock no matter how you push it.

So the long and short of it is don’t try to cut that cupped board on the table saw. Does that mean it’s firewood – no – it does not. This is what you do. Draw a straight guideline down the middle of the board then using the band saw cut the piece in two.

You can see that now you have two pieces that you can use to cut at least one or two slats from. It’s not a perfectly flat board – but acceptable for this project.

Next thing up is setting your fence 1.5” from the inside tooth of your blade.

You can’t see it very well – but if you look closely at your blades you probably have a blade that has one tooth closer to the fence and the next tooth farther away from the blade. When you measure you want to measure from the tooth closest to the fence.

Once that’s set you can run your boards through and get at least 13 slats – but try for those 16 so if you have an issue with one slat you have a back up.

Next thing is to mark one end of a slat as a location point to set up the drill press so you can drill each end of the slats.

Cautionary note Don’t get ahead of yourselves and cut the bevels on the slats until after you have drilled the screw holes.

First to find your drilling point you need to find the center along the width of the board. Since our board is 1.5” the center would be 3/4”. Use a small square and place a mark on the board – then flip the square to the other side of the board to be sure that the line would be placed at the same place on the board – if it is you are centered.

Step one – mark it on one side

Step two – flip over the square and check that the mark would be in the same place.

If the lines match you have center.

I took two pictures with an obvious off-centered mark to show you a little clearer.

Once you know you have the center measure correct, place a line at the end of one slat. Next use your square and make a cross line 3/8” from the end of the slat. This mark will put your screw into the center of the leg support (part G).

Tomorrow night we will start the drilling, cut the bevels and begin putting the seat assembly together.

As always your thoughts and comments are appreciated.

To make the template for the leg support (part G) you must necessarily cut off the part of the pattern which shows where the individual slats must be placed. While it would be helpful to transfer those lines down onto the pattern itself it is not absolutely necessary with the exception of one line. That line is the location of the slat that butts up against the back support. This is the one critical slat that, if placed correctly, will allow all other slats to be placed correctly as well.

I’ve taken a picture of the location on the pattern where I want you to be certain to draw your line and it also shows the two screw locations that you will have to mark which will be where the back assembly will attach to the seat assembly.

This next shot shows where I have drawn my line and have circled the two screw locations.

(I will say here if you managed to get hold of an old version of these plans the line for the back slat will already be on the pattern – but in all probability you have the latest version which does not show the line – which I believe is a mistake on the plan maker’s part.)

Additionally, don’t throw out the slat location pattern as you can always use it for a reference. With all that said, cut out the paper pattern and use spray adhesive to attach it to the MDF. Use the long edge of the factory cut MDF to make the long edge of your pattern. Use the band saw and cut the leg support out and sand it to the line of the pattern.

When sanding to the line be careful not to round off the edge of the pattern where the first seat slat goes. Additionally, be especially careful to keep your lines straight along the front edge.

If you have a chop saw you can use it to cut two of the three front angles which will help you avoid sanding them anything but flat. Using my current pattern my two angles came up to 17 degrees and 36 degrees, but use your paper pattern as a guide.

CAUTIONARY NOTE – if you decide to use your chop saw to do this be sure to have the long edge of the pattern against the fence.

Okay so now you have your pattern attached to the MDF and cut out. One simple thing to do here is to use your 3/32nd drill bit and drill the location holes for your back support. Because the pattern will be used for both the left and right legs do not countersink these holes – just do the 3/32nd hole for now.

You have a critical decision to make now. Do you want your seat slats to be set back from the front of the leg or do you want the slats to be flush with the front of the leg? I personally think it looks better flush – but you’ll have to make your call on this one. Either way the next procedure will be the same.

Take a look at the side section view of your plans. You will notice that the top most portion of the leg support (part G) is 12 ¾” from the bottom of the front leg (part I). Add the thickness of the seat slat and the total height is 13 ½”.

The easiest way to get your pattern for part I and G to match is to use the holes that you’ve already drilled into part I to locate the holes for part G.

What I did was to measure up from the bottom of part I 12 ¾” and then 13 ¼” draw lines at those two measurements. Then because I want my slats flush with the front of my leg I draw a third line ¾” in from the front of the leg. This gives me the location of where part G will go.

Next use your table saw’s fence as a holder and clamp part I to it. Use a good square and make sure that the leg is 90 degrees from the table top.

Next use a small clamp to attach the leg support (part G) to the front leg.

You’ll have to fiddle with the location, but get part G to line up with your measurement marks and then tighten down on the clamp to secure it in position.

Once secure add two more clamps. Be sure when placing your clamps that you do not cover over the holes in part I – you’ll need to be able to see those.

Take the assembly off of the fence and use the 3/8” Forstner bit to locate the drill locations onto part G. (Recall how you did this for the front leg pattern.)

Finally take the assembly apart and using the drill press drill the three holes through your template material. Be sure to use a backer board to prevent blowout on the back of your template.

At this point you now have the seat assembly patterns done.

To confirm your locations use three short dowels and join your two patterns together – they should line up and the front leg should be square to the top of your table. All should be well and you can go forward and make your two leg supports.

Cut two 38” pieces of 1×6 for the leg supports. Trim off just barely enough off one edge to make it square (taking off the factory edges which are not always without some flaw).

LEARNING POINT – When deciding what end to cut from try to avoid any knots. You can see in the picture below that my first 38” piece measured from one end would put me cutting through some knots.

I measured from the other end of my board and was able to incorporate those knots into a portion of the leg support that it would not interfere with.

Once you have your two 38” pieces, use your pattern to set the table saw fence to cut the width of the leg support.

Once both pieces are cut to width – tape the two pieces together securely with carpet tape. Make sure that the bottom edges match perfectly.

LEARNING POINT – those same knots that I worked around you should now be put to the bottom of your leg support. This will keep you from having to potentially cut through them.

Next lay your pattern onto the stack and secure it by either taping it or clamping it. Again, make sure that the bottom edges match perfectly. Use your Forstner bit to tap the locations of the dowel pins and also drill the 3/32” holes for the location of the back support. (Your drill bit will not go all the way through the stack but that’s okay – drive it as far as you can – it will go through the first piece and part way into the second giving you your location.)

Now you have a decision to make, do you want to leave the pattern on the stack and cut the stack at the band saw or do you want to use the template to draw the lines and then cut at the band saw. Personally, I draw the lines and cut at the band saw, this keeps me from cutting into my pattern.

If you used your chop saw to make your pattern piece you can also use it to cut the actual parts, this helps a lot but is not 100% necessary. If you don’t have a chop saw, just follow the lines the best you can.
I usually try to cut about 1/8” or less away from the line. Once you have cut the pieces leave them taped together and sand to your pattern line. Keeping the parts together insures that they will be perfectly matched. If you are making more than one chair be sure to mark each set as “A” or “B” so that the perfect matches stay together.

Once sanded take the stack to the drill press and drill the three dowel holes for the front legs.

CAUTIONARY NOTE: – if you have a small drill press table as I do, you must fashion some type of support for the part of the stack that is not on the table. Not doing so will require you to hold the piece down with one hand much too close to the drill bit.

Once you are set up drill the three dowel holes while the stack is still together.

Next take your 3/32nd bit and finish drilling through the stack using a backer board at the location for the back assembly.

Because you have both a left and right leg – you can also drill the countersink holes for the location of the back assembly while the stack is still together.

CAUTIONARY NOTE – this hole is not a through hole. So drill one side deep enough to allow your screw to go in and to allow a face-grain plug to be installed.

Finally use a square and mark the line from your pattern on to the work pieces showing where the first slat is placed.

Once that is done you can now take your stack apart and remove the carpet tape.

You are almost ready to put your front leg (part I) and leg support (part G) together.

On part I – the front leg you will recall we drilled a 3/32nd hole through each piece. This hole will give you the location to drill a countersink hole for your screws that will attach the arm support (part J).

CAUTIONARY NOTE – you still must remember you have a left and right leg. The countersink hole goes on the INSIDE of the front leg support for each leg assembly.

Now you need six small dowel rods cut to 1 ¼” long. There are several ways to do this. One would be using a small cutting jig that you can hand saw the pieces from.

The second way is to use the band saw. I use the band saw simply because it’s quicker and easier on my hands.

To use the band saw method you’ll need a stop block, any square scrape will do. Measure from the blade out 1 1/2” and place the block (with carpet tape) IN FRONT of the blade. Next, place your dowel rod against the stop block and roll the rod through the blade.

(Yes – my band saw insert is chewed up from not having my saw properly set and tuned – I’ve just never replaced it – it looks bad – but still works.)

CAUTIONARY NOTES: DO NOT attempt to cut these small pieces on the chop saw – they will fly all over the shop and pose a hazard. Additionally, be sure that the stop block is in front of the band saw blade or you will also get shooting pieces. As you roll the rod through the blade the pieces should go to the side and away from the blade.

You’ll need to cut six dowels for the legs – but cut one extra to use as a punch dowel.

Now on to the actual assembly. You will note in the plans that you are directed to add the seat slats before adding the front leg assembly (part I). I do not do this. Because I use dowels to attach part I and part G it’s difficult to have the slats already attached to part G.

CAUTIONARY NOTE – the front leg (part I) goes on the OUTSIDE of the leg support (part G). Make sure that your parts are correctly cut and drilled before moving on to the gluing stage.

Once you are certain that you have both a left and right assembly you can begin the process of gluing and doweling the pieces together. Spread a small amount of glue on both inside portions of the two pieces just around the three holes.

Using a scrap piece of wood as a pallet – roll a dowel pin through the glue and place it into the dowel hole on the leg. The first dowel placement will give you a pivot point to move the piece into alignment for the other two dowels. Place all three dowels with the glue and hammer them down flush with the outside portion of the front leg (part I).

Next use that seventh dowel pieces as a punch – and hammer that on top of the three dowels pushing them down onto the assembly table. This will make the dowel flush with the inside portion of the leg support (part G) and will give you enough of a hole to add a face grain plug on the outside. This is one additional way to hide your joints from the outside of the chair. An end grain dowel will show when you paint over it, using the face grain plug avoids that.

Next simply clamp the pieces together and set them aside to dry.

The next section of this class will focus on the slats and assembling the seat assembly.

As always I appreciate any questions, comments, suggestions, or criticisms of my blog. I would appreciate the feedback.

MDF is my preferred material of choice for patterns. It’s easy to work with and has no voids that plywood would have. MDF comes in ½” and ¾” thicknesses. One-half inch is much more manageable for patterns. Before I made my MDF patterns, I actually ironed the paper flat to take out the creases. The fact that I even own an iron would shock most of my friends, the fact that I have used it may actually cause them to have heart attacks! Of course using it as a woodworking tool probably would not be so shocking to them. The creases in the paper can make a difference when you put it onto the MDF.

I make patterns of the front leg (part I), leg support (part G), arms (part K), the arm support (part J), the middle slat (part A) and the four skinny slats (parts B & C). The 4 skinny slats are the same side to side dimension the only difference is length. I’ve marked the two different lengths on the one pattern.

It’s not really necessary to make patterns for parts A, B & C, but I did just because I put notes to myself on how to build or other things that come up while I’m making a chair. It’s just as easy to simply cut your slats to length and use a compass to mark out the radius on each piece.

You’ll notice that the leg support – part G has no screw holes marked at the front. You’ll be determining that as you go along.

The first thing I do is make the font legs (part I).

The front legs are 19 3/4” high
5 1/2” across the top
2 1/4” across the bottom

The legs are made from a 1×6. I’m careful to work around any knots and plan ahead for where my dowel holes are going to go. I generally mark out the shape and mark the waste portion of the board before I start cutting so I don’t have to think about it when I start actually cutting at the table saw.

Use either a chop saw or hand saw to cut your legs down to 19 ¾”. I use my chop saw to do this. When using the chop saw to cut boards down to length be sure to use a support under the board that hangs over the end of the saw’s table.

Also, to avoid blow out (splintered edges) on your board use a backing board that will support the fibers of the board.

Finally use a stop block to ensure all pieces you cut are the same length. It’s not a huge deal on this type of project if you end up with a leg that is 19 7/8 or 19 ½ instead of the 19 ¾” you are shooting for. The important thing is that the legs are all the same height. With that said, you should shoot for the right size in everything you do, but don’t get a gray hair or throw out a perfectly good leg over a small measurement error.

There are two ways to make the legs. The simplest way is simply is to take your same-height legs and put a measurement mark at 2 ¼” from one bottom edge. Then using a straight edge draw a line from the very corner of the top of the leg and connect it to the 2 ¼” mark.

Using this method take the legs to the band saw and cut as close to the line as possible – but stay outside the line. It’s easiest if you carpet tape the two legs together and cut them at the same time. Once cut use a palm sander or a belt sander to sand down to the line. Cutting and sanding at the same time will ensure both legs are the same.

Part of the beauty of an Adirondack chair is it’s “homemade” look – so little variances in shape actually add a bit of character to the chair so while you are trying to make the best chair possible – try not to get upset if you have a knick here or there.

The second way to make the leg is to make a tapering jig. This is very best way to ensure your legs are exactly the same.

The tapering jig does not have to be anything fancy. Use a scrap of MDF as a base, measure up from the end 19/34” then measure over 5 ½” from the top mark then measure from the bottom edge 2 ¼”, use a straight edge to connect the marks 5 ½” and 2 ¼” marks. You can use straight edged scraps to use as stop blocks. You can either tape or nail the stop blocks down. I also tape my actual wood piece to the jig.

You can use the paper pattern to check your jig measurements. Once you get the jig finished you can cut all your legs at the same time. The sled will pass by the right side of the blade and as the work piece passes through the blade the waste will fall to the left of the blade.

If you are going to make a template – I would suggest using the tapering jig to make it that will give you two crisp edges to use to mark future work pieces.

From here I’m going to assume you are making a template, but it should be easy enough to convert to a one-off making of the chair.

Carefully place your paper template onto the MDF template. You’ll see there are three marks for screw holes at the center of the leg and two marks for screw holes at the top. The three marks are what you will use to connect the leg (part I) to the leg support (part G). You’ll see on my template that I have drilled a 3/8” hole through all five screw locations. I used a drill press to do this so that the holes are completely straight.
When you drill your holes be sure to have a backer board under the template piece so you can avoid blow out. Use a 3/8” Forstner bit for this as you’ll use that size throughout the project.

Now take a look at the tip of your Forstner bit. You’ll see it has a very sharp point in the middle and several sharp points around its edge. You’ll use the point and those edges to your advantage.

Tape your legs together using carpet tape. Then tape your template to the top of the legs. Use your table saw fence as a backstop to be sure your legs are taped together even.

Here is where those sharp edges and tip come in handy. Use an old Forstner bit (provided you have one) to mark where you will drill your holes. Yes you can leave the template on the legs and simply position the drill bit to go through the template and into the work piece, but do this often enough and you’ll eventually get your template holes chewed up.

Place your Forstner bit into each hole and use a small hammer to tap down on the bit hard enough to make an impression of the bit into the wood.

Take off your template but leave your two legs taped together. You’ll see that the bit left a large centering hole/mark and several smaller gouges where the edges of the bit marked the wood.

The top two holes that will connect the arm support (part J) will only be drilled at this point with the 3/32nd drill bit. Use the bit to drill through both legs. Use the large center hole created by the Forstner bit as a guide to drill the pilot holes.

Then go back to the drill press to drill your holes that will connect the front leg and the leg support (part G). You can now see that the marks made by tapping the bit into the template’s holes give you the location to drill now. As you drill through the wood, be sure to bring the bit up and out to clear out wood chips. Not allowing the chips to clear out will heat the bit and probably burn your wood – not so bad in this scenario but still good practice to clear those chips. Drill all the way through the two pieces being sure to have a backer board to avoid blow out. (If your drill press will not go through both pieces it will probably go through enough of the second piece to mark it so that you can finish drilling after separating the pieces.)

You now have your legs and will be prepared to get the leg supports marked. That’s next lesson.

As always, if you have questions or I’ve not explained something well enough, please feel free to ask.

Thanks for sticking with me on this.

So now onto the lumber side of things. Picking out good pine boards is going to be a job in and of itself. As most of you know the big boxes have trouble keeping the good stuff in stock, if at all. However, if you are as stubborn as me you’ll manage to get the right boards. I have been known to go through every bunk of boards to get what I want. If one store does not have everything – I live close enough to another that I can go look somewhere else.

Now I’ll say here as a former supervisor at a building materials store, one thing that I do when shopping at the big box stores or even at my local hardwood dealer is if I take it out of or off the shelf shuffling through to get what I want—- I put back what I don’t want. I’ve also made friends with a few of the store managers/assistant managers and I can usually get them to discount a board that I normally would not buy for one reason or another, but I can use it if they’ll discount it. Say it’s got a bad check or several large knots that would not make it good for most uses – I’ll get them to give me a discount. That helps them get rids of boards that will be hard to sell or they have to toss out and I get a board that I can use. I, of course, only do this when I know I can cut around the bad spots.

Here are a few pictures of things you want to avoid when buying lumber at the big box stores. First staples – yikes how many staples can they put in one board? There’s always one staple at the end holding on the bar code then for whatever reason they have more. You want to be sure to pull these staples out if you buy a board that has them for several reasons. One – if you carry lumber in your SUV like I do, a staple can catch on your car seat and rip it – that would not make you happy. Secondly, picking up the board with staples in it can cut you – also not a good thing and thirdly a staple going through your table saw will, in the least cause sparks to fly and at the most may break a tooth or two on the blade depending on how heavy the staple is.

Boards with bad edges – this is a little bit of an iffy spot. I don’t mind buying a board with a banged up edge if I know I can use it for a part that does not require the entire width of the board. If I can work around the defect and the board is otherwise in good shape – I’ll probably bring it home.

Checks – I couldn’t find a good example while I was shopping – but a check is basically found at the end of your board and is a crack that goes several inches or more into its length. I have a picture here that shows a check that has occurred around a knot. Again, if I could work around the check and the board is okay otherwise, I might still buy the board. But I’d keep looking first. I’ll put this board off to the side for the “maybe” pile.

Twisted boards – avoid these for now – with experience you can learn how to deal with them, but for now put them off to the side. A twisted board is one that is warped or bowed along its length. If you bring the board’s edge up to eye level you should be able to see down the board’s length and can tell if it’s not straight.

A cupped board, same thing – avoid it if you can for now. A cupped board is one that is bowed along its edges making a concave shape.

What I generally do, and this is by no means the very best way to see if a board is flat, not twisted or cupped, is just lay the silly thing down on the floor of the store. I’m quite certain the store’s floor is not perfectly flat, but for our purposes it will show you if the board is twisted or cupped. If it rocks on the floor – leave it at the store. (Hey that rhymes!)

For a set of two chairs I generally buy the following lumber:
1×8x8 (3 pieces)
1×6x8 (7 pieces)
1×6x10 (2 pieces)
1×4x8 (9 pieces)
Also buy one 3/8” dowel rod
One box of #6×1.25” wood screws
One box of #6×1.5” wood screws
You’ll need a 3/8” plug cutter – get a tapered cutter – you’ll like it better than a straight one.

Carpet tape – get the kind that leaves little residue. I try to find the tape that is not of the “mesh” variety – I find the smooth carpet tape works best – but I’ve had a hard time finding that lately.

3/8” Forstner bit
3/32” drill bit.

Here are just a few pictures of things you’ll need along our journey.

Hop and I both like our ears and eyes – so safety glasses and hearing protection are a must for any project.

This is a good project to start collecting tools and small items that come in handy. The playing cards will act as shims, just in case you don’t get something just right. They do come in handy.

It’s not necessary to have two drills but it comes in handy at assembly time. You’ll need a small assortment of clamps – no Bessey’s for this project though – but some small ones will do just fine.

I hope that gives you a little bit to work with for now. I’m going to try tomorrow or Monday to start making the templates. As this is Christmas week – that may not happen. We’ll see how things go.

Cedar or cypress are much better woods to use for Adirondack chairs because neither one requires any special coatings to last a lifetime. However, both are much more expensive than pine and, therefore, pine is the better choice of wood to make your first attempt at this chair. Once you get the hang of making the furniture, buy the good stuff. Because pine is not “weatherproof” to make sure the chairs are around for a while you will have to come to grips with the fact that you’ll have to paint and/or stain the chairs with exterior grade paint or stain.

There are five things I do differently than the plans call for. 1) I use templates instead of just the paper patterns; 2) I use dowel pins in the chair and the footstool legs; 3) I do not put screws through the front of the best rest; 4) I put the project together in a different order; and 5) the front of my chair has a bit of a different look that the original plans.

I make and use templates for the chairs because it’s a simple matter to make one part well then copy it. The template can then be used for more than one chair. In reality who wants just one chair and you don’t want to reinvent the wheel each time you want to make something. Therefore, for this project and any project like it, plan to make templates for the major parts.

Dowel pins are used in place of screws at the largest stress points in the chair and footstool. Those points are in the legs. It’s a proven fact that a wood on wood glue joint is stronger and will last longer than a joint glued and secured with a screw. The dowel costs a fraction more than a screw and takes a bit more precision in placement, but it’s worth the effort in the long run.

None of the chairs I made using screws at these points are still around. I have many chairs that I’ve made with the dowel pins that are well over 10 years old. So I’ll stick with the dowel pins. Also you’ll see in the picture above that the dowel pins are end grain. Well I’ve made a change in how I insert the pins and I think you’ll like the look better.

Okay this gives you just a little bit of what’s ahead. I hope you have all gotten your plans ordered or purchased.

Next up I’ll go over the plans, the templates, and how I choose my lumber.

My plan for this class is to break it down into small parts. I plan to do this for several reasons. One reason is I want to take a little extra time to explain things that were never explained to me and that I had to figure out as I went. Secondly, I will be taking it slow because I plan to build the chair with you and that entails taking the pictures and trying to be as detailed as I can to help you along to a successful build. And finally, I will be going slower because I’m just a whole lot slower moving these days than I used to be, so I hope you will stick with me and follow along. If there is ever anything I say or do that you have questions about, please feel free to ask. Similarly, if there is anything I say or do that you don’t agree with – speak up. I’m always open to someone else’s opinion.

I promised to introduce you to me new shop assistant. But she’s being camera shy. She knows when I get out the camera – I try to get her to pose – but she’ll have none of it. So maybe next time you’ll get to see her. She’s quite the find.

Now I’m working on my second board. This board I cut at 30 degrees. I was going to make this into two boards, but I’m thinking of doing something different and I’d like your opinions.

The idea is put a strip of maple in the middle of the two boards and then surround the whole board with walnut.
Do you think it’s too busy? Should I just make it two boards?

Here’s the other therapy I’ve been working on tonight.

What you see here is the best peanut butter fudge you’d ever want to sink your teeth into. I’m the fudge lady in this neck of the woods and I must say its pretty good. :-)

I look forward to your opinion about the second board.

Thanks in advance.

Also the artistic side of my mind (which is not exercised very much – so it may be wrong here) wants to put in some fancy diamond shaped inlays on the sides, just small 1/4” diamonds in walnut. What do you think?

You’ll notice that my chevrons are off center, they were centered and they just didn’t look right to me so I chopped off a little on one edge to “fix it”.

I can certainly see how degoose and others get so many design possibilities with this process. Anyway – here’s my board – what do you think?

The woods are walnut, cherry and hard maple.

I have to admit this woodworking therapy sure seems to be working! The more I’m out in the shop the more I feel like my old self.