Woodworking vacation #7: Day three -- 2nd entry.

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Blog entry by Betsy posted 05-22-2008 04:08 AM 1545 reads 1 time favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Day three ----- planes, chisels, sharpening..... lots of shavings Part 7 of Woodworking vacation series Part 8: It's been an expensive day! »

A quick summary————FUN, FUN, FUN, FUN, FUN, FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Worked a lot on chisels today. I’m having to apologize again for not taking pictures—- I got caught up in the doing and not the documenting. Sorry.

Chisels—- usually only get a primary and a secondary bevel. Generally not necessary to do a tertiary bevel. If you need a bigger cut, go to a steeper angle.

The whole back of the chisel needs to be flat—- not just the first 1 or 2 inches. This is because if you are paring and you hit the portion of the blade that has not been flattened – it will kick the blade up and cause a deeper than intended cut. So best to just go ahead and flatten the whole back.

Use the same 180-200-400 grit sequence as we did on the plane irons. Once you get through this series – check your work on the 8000 grit stone. If it looks like it needs more work – go to the 4000 grit stone and finish up on it.

The secondary bevel can be done on the 8000 grit stone – only a couple of strokes is necessary. Be sure to take off the small burr.

You need to be sure that the small line you get with the secondary bevel is straight across the bevel. If it is skewed then you have not properly ground the blade and it may be out of square. That’s not always a problem – but best be square than not.

Back to plane irons now.

There are five points to a plane iron. The center/middle, two corners and two 1/3 distance points.

To camber an iron—work on the 1000 grit stone. Determine the amount of camber you want to get. (Do not work the middle of the blade on the 1000 grit stone.) First load up the iron in your guide – putting more pressure on one corner make about 8-10 strokes. Then put the same amount of pressure on the opposite corner and take the same number of strokes. Then move to one of the 1/3 distance points and run the same number of strokes—do the same on the 2nd 1/3 distance point.

Move to the 8000 grit stone. Remove the burr made on the 1000 grit stone.

Start in the center/middle of the blade and do 1/2 the number of strokes you did on the 1000 grit stone. Then do the same number on each corner than each 1/3 distance point.

Finish with the ruler trick.

Deneb does NOT camber most of his blades. He takes such light cuts that he does not feel it is necessary. But this is one of those opinion things——everyone has their own thoughts.

If you are finishing with a shaving of 1/2000 shaving then no camber is really necessary.

A camber is easier to push than a straight blade.

Different thicknesses of shavings require a different camber.

The camber radius must equal the amounf of blade exposed or you will get a rut in the work piece.

Need a heavier radius on a low angle blade.

On your plane sole if you have knicks on the edges this will show up in your work piece. Use a small diamond hone to just swipe them over the edge to clean it up.

if you have a scratch on the sole itself, use a scotch pad to clean up the burr on the end of the scratch.

use parafin or wax on the bottom of the sole to make it run smoother.

Camillia oil does not soak in and poses no problems with any finish.

Cupping is easier to flatten than a crown.

A tooth blade can go in any direction and is a good choice for highly figured woods.

Tool bench height for planing should be at your finger tip level when your arm is hanging at your side.

Set up your plane for the expected cut. If you don’t get that expected cut, it’s the board and not the tool. (Provided, of course, that you really did set up the tool correctly.)

For end grain (i.e. in cutting boards), use a 40 degree or less working angle.

If done properly a planed board is best finished with an oil finish.

Deneb uses a mixture of water lox, mineral spirits and tung oil (in 3 equal parts) on his plane-finished pieces.

Well – that’s about it for now.

This class/school is a definite must do.

Oh – and one question yesterday was about the angle set up gizmo. Yes—- the angle is different based on the thickness of each blade. But this gizmo is a in-the-neighborhood set up. To get the exact angle you want for each blade, you really need to use the protractor each time.

Thanks for taking a look at my blog.

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

3 comments so far

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 3851 days

#1 posted 05-22-2008 04:39 AM

Thanks for sharing this Betsy. It does sound like you are enjoying yourself.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Dorje's profile


1763 posts in 4026 days

#2 posted 05-23-2008 06:24 AM

Who needs exact angles anyway! Hey – you really documented quite a lot here and I’m really glad that you were so immersed in the day that you forgot to take pics…

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View Taigert's profile


593 posts in 3869 days

#3 posted 05-29-2008 07:13 PM

doing great at passing on the info

-- Taigert - Milan, IN

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