Downstairs Built-ins Extravaganza! #8: Time to stock up on sandpaper!

Hi Beth
Looks like things are moving right along. As far as sanding goes at least a Random orbital sander will make things a lot easier than just a pad sander(a sander with 1/4 sheet of sand paper that just moves back and forth)If you buy one the type that has hook and loop (velcro) disc are easiest to change the sand paper.
On hard wood (not plywood) start sanding at 60 grit for Farly rough surfaces and work your way through finer grits of sand paper in this order 60,80,100,120,150,180 you can go even finer if you wish but be careful because the finer you go the more it seals of the wood from finish. In time you will know when you can start at a finer grit than 60. It’s best to parctice on some wood before useing a new sander on your built ins.
Hope this helps.
Jim

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

Listen to Jim, he has it right!

If you are going to continue to do wood working, a random orbital finish sander will become your friend! I wish I had purchased the type with hook and loop system when I started but I opted for the for the sticky, pressure sensitive adhesive type. The sanding disks were cheaper. The problem is that often you don’t “use up” a sanding disk before needing a different grit. A used disk never seems to stick too good the next time.

Beth, Jim & Lew are right on the money. with hook and loop you can change sheets and still reattach without any problem. This is so useful that its worth it to go for one of the better brands and not some cheepie (B&D) also consider features like variable speed. its worth the investment. Also keep dust control in mind and wear dust masks, over time sanding dust can kill you !

-- RTB. "dumb animals are not stupid they simply can't talk "

I agree with all of the above and also think your project is looking pretty darn good!!

-- robbi-Yadahooty!

Well, I guess if you are determined to sand all the saw marks away…....their right…..But I think I would start with a good scraper….and maybe even end with it too!!

-- Life used to be soooo much simpler!!!!

Okay, I’ll be off to the store today to look at sanders and get sandpaper. But now I’m all intrigued by John’s suggestion. I didn’t even realize that scraping was an option, but I just googled it. I’m not sure what would be easier for me – but I do hate sanding! If anyone wants to chime in more about scraping, or give me some good links, I would like know more. Thanks!

-- Beth

Beth, I agree with the comments above, but I’m concerned about using that technique on the plywood. If you sand through that many different grits, there’s a good chance you could sand through the finish layer of veneer on the plywood. For the plywood you might consider starting with 100 or 120, then go straight to 180 or 220, depending on how dark you plan to stain the unit.

-- Martin, Kansas

Woodhacker ~ that’s a good point. And I like your advice because it’s easier. :) I will be doing test boards too, so I’ll be able to see what works and what doesn’t.

-- Beth

When sanding before staining, hand sand with the grain using the last grit you used with the ROS. This should remove any swirl or cross-grain sanding marks that will be emphasized with pigment stain.

If you’re using an oil based stain, a quick wipe with Naptha will show any left over swirls, so you can correct them before you stain. With a water based stain, do the same with denatured alcohol.

Scraping is a fantastic skill, one well worth learning. Be aware that scraping does have a learning curve, including sharpening skills. This curve is greatly shortened if you can find some local help to show you what a properly tuned scraper can do, how to tune it, and how to use it. I struggled for years to get a scraper to operate correctly using books, magazines, and the web. A half an hour in a hands-on class had me making lacy shavings.

If you’re staining the wood, I really doubt anyone can tell a properly sanded surface from one that’s been properly scraped.

What are you using for stain and a clear finish? Certain combinations act better stopping at certain sanding grits. In some cases, more sanding is not better.

Good on you for planning test boards.

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I forgot to mention…

Regardless of scraping or sanding, watch the edges and profiles. Nothing ruins a look like convex or concave flat parts and not-so-crisp profiles, due to overzealous sanding or scraping.

While you do want to “break” the edges, which is a fancy term for a very small round-over done with a sanding block and very fine paper or a block plane, try to evenly prepare all surfaces for finish. The “broken” edge helps the finish flow out as it dries. This prevents the clear finish from “fattening” along the edge, as well as making the edge more durable to life’s bumps and nicks.

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