BALL IN A BOX #2: The Plan

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Blog entry by BertFlores58 posted 09-22-2011 04:48 AM 1465 reads 2 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: The design - 4 colors Part 2 of BALL IN A BOX series Part 3: The Lid »

Normal to each project to have a plan, written or only in the mind, working ahead is knowing what is next.

Things available: The resources that are available. The essentials are:

Router Jig – I will use the straight guide, compass and roller attachments… I have to make the curving jig if the compass attachment will not suffice.
Got 1/8” dia x 1/2” (1/4 drive) straight bit – could be used for cutting the curve.
Reamer bit 1/2 drive 1/2×3 inches Bearing guide 16 mm or 5/8” diam fitted on the end. – could be used to shape the sides but requires pattern.

Others: plane, glue, sander, etc—normal woodworking tools.

In this project, I will be using lots of portable tools.

Yellow with green grain stripes—could be used as leaf
Brown – could be used as left (partner for yellow)
Gray – for the conical shape.
Pink and Orange (Narra) for the ball.

I could not identify the wood name because these are recycled from previous 2×3. Have already cut, planed, and glued to form a board 8 inches wide. Thickness for all is 5/16 or 8 mm. This is alright as target finish is 1/4 in thickness.

Take another look on the flats of the design… You will see that all the centers of cutting radii are in the waste area.

1) There are various approaches in cutting this style.. but what I am planning to do is direct cutting using 1/8 straight bit with a router and 1 complete arc at a time at a time… used stack filing of boards, in this case 2 pieces the Yellow and Brown.

I have to sacrifice the conical shape for the 1/8 kerf. Anyway I can still use these cut-offs to form another piece of same design… only that I have to make it smaller or fill in the gaps which will be 1/4 inch.

2) Adjusting the radius to compensate the kerf of 1/8, then cut the other two boards (all gray woods) for the cones. This time sacrificial waste will be on the “leaf” side.

3) The leaves must be split symmetrically to pair with each other. The method of splitting is quite puzzling. If you sacrifice the other half, the ends of one pair will be destroyed. Therefore, splitting this will be done one piece at a time or can be stacked all together. A total of 4 pieces on yellow and 4 pieces on brown.

4) The next is obviously gluing and assembly. There is nothing much to do with the conical shape.

NOTES: Grain orientation is a good point to consider. Tearing will happen on the pointed edges. This can be avoided if grain will be along the straight symmetry (corner to corner). However, doing this grain orientation will no longer allow you to plane when assembled because tearout will happen. Grain orientation will be from center towards the corners. Best to use is sanding after gluing.

THE BALL AND BOTTOM. My mind is changing on this and I could not finalize what to do. The pieces will be smaller as expected but there is no room for giving up…

The joints for the box will follow Martyn’s Mitre box (Thanks Martyn) including the lid and lips work.

Till next for the actual work. These is the WORD. ACTION SPEAKS LOUDER.
Cheers and Hope you enjoy the imaginative planning that may change during the execution.

-- Bert

4 comments so far

View littlecope's profile


3071 posts in 3524 days

#1 posted 09-22-2011 06:24 AM

You’re making a Vision become Reality Bert…
Stay Focused, and Careful Cutting my Friend!!

-- Mike in Concord, NH---Unpleasant tasks are simply worthy challenges to improve skills.

View BritBoxmaker's profile


4611 posts in 3058 days

#2 posted 09-22-2011 02:54 PM

I look forward to the ‘actions’, Bert

Hint. Glue yellow and brown woods together first, then rout the leaf shape (half yellow, half brown).

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging.

View BertFlores58's profile


1698 posts in 2944 days

#3 posted 09-22-2011 03:53 PM

Thanks Mike.

That I think the easiest way to avoid so much setting on the routing process. I actually draw the pattern and found out that if I make 120 mm (6 inches) on the top measured 2 side to side, it will give me only 40 mm (1.5 inches) deep or height on the sides when finished. I need to readjust the radius to 8 inches to create a depth of 2.5 inches. I will see on Saturday if I sufficient wood… This will allow me also to have bigger cuts on the ball.
Thanks. You made my life easy.

-- Bert

View Cozmo35's profile


2200 posts in 3058 days

#4 posted 09-23-2011 12:52 AM

Bert, I look forward to seeing the product. The planning stage looks great.

-- If you don't work, you don't eat!.....Garland, TX

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