NARRA BOXES #3: The 6x12 Box - A big challenge!!!

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Blog entry by BertFlores58 posted 08-13-2011 03:24 PM 1725 reads 2 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: The 2x6x6 box Part 3 of NARRA BOXES series Part 4: The 3x6x12 Dovetail with A-framing lid »

Coming bigger and complicated… I like challenges….

THE 2 X 6 X 12 inches box... actual size made… 2-1/2×5-3/4×11-1/2 inches
I tried to glue end to end the two pieces of 2×6 parquets and create a 2×12 strip. Hand plane to size just to take out the paint and level it with others. It is difficult to press lengthwise. A stronger masking tape had help a lot and served like a clamp. Stretched fully just right that it will not break. Here how the two pieces end to end joined….

As you can see the tape is wrap around to create tension to press the glue up like a clamp action.

Next joining it together crosswise making a 6×12 parquetry. Here I don’t mind the grain orientation and the colors. It is hard to select wood of the same grain orientation and color. What is important is the proper arrangements so that the planing directions for all pieces are on the same direction. Narra is quite difficult to plane. It creates a lot of tearout.

This point.. Gloss lacquer was applied just to seal the grain and make it stable. The best is sanding sealer but I ran out of it so lacquer can do the job.

The two sides front and rear are miter with the left and right sides forming a 6×12 box. After checking the depthness… noticed the wrong proportion. The inside depth is too shallow. So I added a strong wood of brown wood strips and increased the depth to 2 inches (measured from inside. Routed the shoulder for the bottom cover then fitted the cover. Amazingly, the bottom cover has a good color and grains. Before assembly, all the pieces were sanded by an angle grinder and final sanding was done by a flat sander. Notice that some of the tearout were filled up by narra powder mixed with glue. The sanded powder was used as it is very fine.

The tearout filled by powder and glue….

The added extension portion brown scrap wood (not classified wood as it comes from scrap and recycled).

Working on the pinned hinges…..
1) Rounded the rearside using a round over bit using a router.
2) Rounded the lid using cove bit using a router. A little bigger so I shape it with a plane.
3) Cut to size two pieces of ebony (Kamagong) to be the top sides…. this is a strong wood and will be the nicest to use… It is better to make the pinhole first on this side pieces prior gluing. I have made two mistakes in drilling the pinhole but nothing to worry because it is still too long.
4) With the lid aligned and the ebony side pieces pinned temporarily to the lid, then I glued the ebony to the box sides…. I use a tape to hold it in place and clamp them. (I was not able to take photo)
Here are the series of photos all about the how the pinned hinges looks.

The Pin and the plug skewers….

The ebony top pinhole…..

After assembling the lid with pin… (I have not assembled it totally because I have to make the lid handle and front lock)

And I have to hold it for today… Have to think of what I will do with the front lock and handle… I like it to be wooden….. Till next..

Thanks and hope I have shared nice ideas today… anyway it should have been easier if I had not used scraps… but no challenge…


-- Bert

7 comments so far

View shipwright's profile


8002 posts in 2849 days

#1 posted 08-13-2011 03:54 PM

Nice Bert. You do so much with so little.
I call stretched masking tape “the universal clamp”. Use it all the time

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees.

View BritBoxmaker's profile


4611 posts in 3087 days

#2 posted 08-14-2011 03:46 PM

Big box challenge but Bert is up to it. Nice work my friend.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging.

View Armand's profile


232 posts in 2962 days

#3 posted 08-15-2011 03:12 AM

Very cool Bert. Nice idea on joining woods using tape, it thought it can’t be done but you’ve done it. Now I can look back to my left over woods and follow your steps. Thanks for sharing.

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

View BertFlores58's profile


1698 posts in 2973 days

#4 posted 08-15-2011 03:27 AM

Thanks to you all.
Armand, I use different width of masking tape. If I need firmness or flatness, I use wider tape. But when I need elastic or spring action, I use narrower ones… I can stretch it more than using wide. I do double wrapping when compensating the straightness of the joint… meaning I stretch more when there is bulging on the other end… That’s how flexible clamping with tape is…

-- Bert

View BertFlores58's profile


1698 posts in 2973 days

#5 posted 08-15-2011 03:40 AM

Armand, Another thing… the grain orientation (planing direction) is more important when joining pieces. This will avoid tearout. Even working with bthe end grain joining, the plaining direction is likewise important.
Thanks to you all.

-- Bert

View Armand's profile


232 posts in 2962 days

#6 posted 08-15-2011 07:21 AM

Thanks Bert, I am also in the middle of another box building using narra too. Will post it once it is finished.

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

9231 posts in 2971 days

#7 posted 08-17-2011 02:37 PM

Beautiful boxes from the recycled wood, Bert! Isn’t it sweet to have all that wood to work with? You make fine use of it and give it a whole new life!

Sheila :)

-- Designer/Artist/Teacher. Owner of Sheila Landry Designs ( Scroll saw, wood working and painting patterns and surfaces. "Knowledge is Power"

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