# Rectangular designs #2: Pyramid illusion

 Blog entry by BertFlores58 posted 01-11-2011 08:19 AM 3603 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments
 « Part 1: Sinusoidal concept - the COSINE CURVE Part 2 of Rectangular designs series Part 3: Pyramid box »

I have to reduce my time in dealing with geometrical design last holiday seasons due to some domestic appointments and household projects. However, my mind is pre-occupied on to continue different design concepts using a rhumboid. I think it is time to recover from the LONG GAPS and so here I am back again to what I started. This time, I do design and do it in flesh as soon as I have the chance.

Pyramid came up when I accidentally cut a rhumboid the other way around. Instead of a 60 degree rhumboid, I was able to produce a longitudinally cut with two isosceles triangle. We may say it is longitudinal cut rather than crosswise (creates equilateral triangle)

So I figured out that I can make like this

Then on the making I have following steps:

Phase I – Getting the right wood and colors… estimate the availability (Better to have more than short) – depends on the wood availability – 5 days (some were glued to form a block) It takes a long time to gather those wood cuts leftovers and scraps that are of good quality and still can be used.

Phase II – Cutting strips of wood to triangular at 45 degree (same like a prism) – Half day using portatable circular saw and miter.

You will observe that I normally use a handsaw when the stock is less than two inches in width. It is two dangerous to cut it using portable saw or miter saw… due to its limited clamping edges. Sometimes I glue other stuff just to widen the clamping edges.

Phase III – Glueing pair of prismatic wood to form a square rod. (Takes times because you need to choose the right color of wood.) – overnight for drying.. good time becase I can do it after my office work.

Phase IV – Squaring and final planing for the square rods… (I normally use hand plane so I can control the correctness of the 45 degree corner to corner joint) HARDEST PART OF THE JOB. HAVE TO REJECT A LOT WHICH DOES NOT PASS THROUGH MY QUALITY. THIS WILL ALSO GIVE THE GREAT ACCURACY. Sometimes, I over plane woodstock making it undersize.. I dont throw it but regroup it for the next project that will be using smaller size.

Phase V – Sawing to thickness. I use a miter saw to cut to size (endgrain pieces) The setting of the miter saw is compounded. The vertical adjustment setting is 45 degree and the horizontal adjustment is set to 35 degree.

There is a very limited chance of correcting it to size.. I tried planing, it is difficult to make a perfect plan using manual planing… THE BEST ACTION is to RENEW THE PIECE…. I have learned that on this stage you have to pre-assemble the correct pieces and if there is one or two that is not accurately cut… it is better to replace it because there is no chance to repair when glued already.

Phase VI – GLUE UP for the pieces. The messy part… I did not take pictures at this stage as my hand is full of glue… LOL. This is the most thrilling part. Like a jigsaw puzzle.. you have to join the pieces. WHAT IS IMPORTANT in this aspect… GLUING BEVEL PIECES IS QUITE DIFFICULT THAN STRAIGHT PIECES. The joint slides up when you push sideways.. THE ADVANTAGE… due to the bevel…. THE GLUE STAYS IN PLACE and does not drain compared to vertical or straight joints. Another advantage…. the gaps is hardly seen in any angle and there is more glue spaces creating a greater strength.

Phase VII – Sanding and FINAL FINISH…..

SO HERE IS THE PYRAMID ILLUSION IN FLESH…...

AND THE FLIPSIDE (look at the difference) THE CRAZY ILLUSION…

What happened is that each vertical row is inverted joined creating a 90 degree offset at the flipside…
Amazing and again accidentally discovered… Can you figure out?.....

I think I have to continue next time with the sides… My plan is to make a jewelry box (rectangular out of it). The side is planned to be like this….

WATCH FOR IT…. THANKS

-- Bert